Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Okay so just a quick review not that there aren't enough threads on this but will kinda do a quick summary.

My level of wrenching is a 8.5 out of 10, I almost do all my own mechanic work yet I know I am not professional. Important I think, I have a full 2 tier roll away tool box so my point is if I need it I usually have it or can certainly improvise.

In another thread mentioned seeing a lot of clearance as I have aftermarket Cobras, there was NO need to remove exhaust, very easy access, no issue at all.

Took me about 1 hr. 20 mins. Only thing I will say is a must for this job is a low boy floor jack, my 2 ton never would have worked that well, I would have fought with it. So I had 2 other jacks to use that worked perfect plus jack stands.

#1 learn right off the bat that you will be moving the rear tire up and down in turn moving the suspension over and over to remove and install. I laughed because when I got in the position where both bolts holding the brackets we're out then the bracket per instruction should just fall out, NOPE not for me had to raise the rear higher so that then it would fall out so again, just be prepared to go up and down for positioning on the complete job, very easy mind you just very necessary. LOL

So it was truly a very easy job, 5 out of 10 on the mechanic scale at worst.

Outcome, great feel to the bike, now I am only running a 200 right now so there is still space and the bikes in most the threads are based on the 230 with a 2" lowering. But I will say again the feel is tremendous and totally different. My bike was set on #5 shock position and here it comes :) damn my luck I could not move it into position #6 which I wanted too(no correct tools). I do not have the factory tool and I hoped to just be able to lift the suspension then use a punch and hand sledge to move it, Nope, was not budging so I bailed out on it ASAP, was not going to worry, nor fight or screw anything up. I have not seen any mention by anyone in any thread how they move their shock position or should we say what tool other than a factory wrench they use very curious what others use.

So there is my take, did not go into a bunch of detail because seriously it was very very easy and the outcome was very very good !!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
will work on that, have the before but not after just yet. Again I will totally admit that even with the over sized 200 that the 230 makes the deal. I look at those bikes and they look awesome, my opinion, not that I am not very proud of mine just saying the 230 completes the filling of any gaps.

But just the lowering kit made a huge performance improvement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
never a stupid question

For me it was seeing the 230 + 2" lowering threads and reading through them. What I found is kind of what I stated. The looks improved by taking up more gap space, but much bigger difference in the ride for sure. Positioning feel mainly.

P.S. I feel like the idiot, I have the OEM mechanics manual and does not state the shock adj. tool is within the kit that comes with the bike. Talk about doing a bit more research to find out we all can be Mechanic IDIOTS at time. Hell I can laugh at myself on this one, DUH !!!! :eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yes, you are lowering the rear by 2", so you feel like your sitting a bit back(good thing for most aftermarket seat especially)

be reminded however if you get away from the stock 180 you will gain some, not much but some as you go into your 200 and/or 230 from the increase of diameter, remember you only pick up 1/2 you overall diameter increase
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,887 Posts
The big advantage of lowering, for those with short inseams, is they can easily flatfoot the bikes when they have to stop, thus being easier to hold up at stops. Disadvantages are less ground clearance, easier to scrape hard parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,620 Posts
Instead of lowering the wife's 900, I bought her some really thick sole leather boots, end of problem.
I lowered my wifes 900 all the way down to a 750 Honda Shadow Aero! LOL

She has thick sole boots too. Works great! Some folks kind of shy'ed us away from lowering a bike, a bike that's already low enough will have better suspension than one lowered they claim. True or not? I dunno, but my wife definitely wanted a bike that fit stock, so we got the 750, worked like a charm!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
I didn't see it anywhere or did I overlook it. What lowering kit did you use?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
To answer what kit, there seem to be 3 commonly used, Barron's, Scootworks, and the LA branded. Scootworks is the only that offers a 3" drop that I have seen but also I will add almost no one is going that far, I would say 90% go to the 2" drop. I believe each of the above are literally the same, again not much to the new arm really and truly.

I went with the Barrons because it was in stock NOW, I also knew I would never go to the 3" drop. That being said the I will point out a minor flaw in the Barrons instructions. Their tool list is wrong. It does not show all the MM sockets needed and could put someone in a bind if they did not have all the sockets and no other ride to an auto parts store was available. Scootworks listings of tools needed is dead on, nothing more than an FYI.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top