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Your motorcycle is 'singing' to you. The noise is quite normal.
Interesting...maybe I never heard it cause I had the other non-500 tank on the bike.

Any guidance on why the motorcycle might have shut off under throttle? I'm guessing too much fuel at 3 turns out on both carbs (although I think the fuel/air mix screws only affect idle).

I'm planning on looking at the trouble shooting guide in Haynes manual as well.
 

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Tried draining carbs and they have fuel. Checked battery connections and all four points are secure. Checked air filter and it is wet and smells like gasoline. I'm rinsing it in water kn filter, but does this mean I need to make the screws more lean? They are currently 3 turns out on both sides.
 

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I changed out my KN filter and put the old filter back in. The puke tube looked clear and lighter than the dark liquid before, so I assumed it was empty. I started the bike with full choke and it felt like a weak idle. I then adjusted the pilot screws and turned them in and felt the idle pick up. I went to half choke and it weakened but then picked up. I continued closing the pilot screws in, trying to get the highest idle. It still wasn't idling as high as it had been right after carb cleaning, but it was idling at a normal rate. I closed the choke and continued adjusting and it sounded ok. I throttled and it immediately felt weak. I thought the right side might be too lean so I opened up a bit and it seemed better, but opening up more didn't seem to increase rpms. I throttled and it still seemed weak. I turned it off to take a break and then saw liquid (I'm thinking gasoline) was pouring out from the side of the air filter onto the floor. I thought, maybe the puke tube is full and I quickly tried draining it and yes, out came a liquid, slightly darker and thicker than gasoline, perhaps a quarter cup.

So my issue seems to be that gasoline is overflowing into the puke tube and going into the air filter as well.

1. any tips on cleaning the original air filter? i ordered a cleaning kit for the KN filter.
2. does pilot screws have anything to do with the gasoline going to the puke tube?
3. does the weaker idle indicate that the spark plugs might be wet with gasoline and gasoline might have overflowed into the crank case or elsewhere?
4. how do i remedy the overflowing gasoline?
 

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In addition to the questions above, here is an update. I checked the number of times the pilot screw was turned while the bike was off and I had actually closed the right pilot screw all the way, and it had still been running fine. I'm suspecting a possible stuck float issue in the right carb. I read that fuel flowing into the air filter might mean a stuck float. I had replaced the float needle and pilot screw assembly in the left carb, but had left the right alone. Appearance wise they looked fine.

One thing that also leads me to thinking perhaps its a stuck float in the right carb is that, while the screw was adjusted where the bike seemed to idle poorly, I noticed dripping from the puke tube. I tried tilting the bike upright from the side stand and all of a sudden the dripping became a flowing of fluid (probably 95% gasoline) from the puke tube.

I've currently got the screws adjusted where the rpm sounds the highest and most regular during idle. However, I'm still having a bogging down issue when I rev the throttle in neutral.

It's just a guess but I'm thinking:
1. inspect carbs and replace float needle and pilot screw assembly in the right carb
2. check and clean spark plugs
3. smell crank case for gasoline
4. oil change
5. clean kn air filter and install

Let me know if I'm on the right track or if there is something obvious that I am missing.

Oh, and I noticed I can't start the bike unless I have throttle fully open, which I believe means engine could be flooded? It also seems to have difficulty running with choke and better with none.
 

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riley,

I did not view your video before responding before and agree that the noise is rather excessive for the 'singing' part. The noise is kind of a pressure release valve in the tank vent system. When the tank has excess pressure a valve opens and allows the pressure to dissipate in the air. Your bike is sitting in the sun, exacerbating the issue. The clear tube with bubbles inside the tank has be baffled. Does your bike have the 'charcoal canister' installed in front of the swingarm? How many hoses are connected on the right side of the tank?

I am guessing that the tank has excess pressure in it causing the carburetor(s) to flood. This will cause the running issues you describe.

Regarding adjusting of the idle mix screws, *always* make adjustment with the engine at operating temperature and the choke fully closed. Any adjustment outside these parameters does not help. It is entirely possible to have each idle mix screw at a different settings. (ex.: Hidalgo has one side at 2 1/2 turns and the other at 3 1/2 turns) The idle mix screws will have no effect on fuel getting into the airbox. You may have mentioned it elsewhere but have you had the carbs off/cleaned?

Have the carbs been synchronized/balanced? If not do it (or have it done). Balanced carbs perform better.

Regarding bogging on acceleration: Is the air filter still in place? Without the air filter it gets too much air and does not run right. A K&N OEM replacement filter is good. Hidalgo has one.

If you are concerned about fuel getting into the crankcase do an oil change now. It's cheap insurance.

Spark plugs: I have had better luck with NGK DR8EA spark plugs.
 

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Sounds like you have a float or float valve issue, I'd tear the carbs down, clean valve and valve seat, check float height, and make sure they are sealing.

If there is any tiny thing blocking that valve it will just let fuel run and run. I very recently had this problem. I took it apart and cleaned it, it looked and felt like I did nothing, but there was something in there preventing the valve from closing and everything was good to go next startup. It was very obvious that I had an issue because the carb would overflow if I filled it on a bench. I cleaned it until it no longer did that and played with the float height a bit.
 

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I think there may be a black cylinder below the carbs, not 100%. I have two hoses on the right. I believe they are correctly hooked up but not sure. One is open ended and hanging below for maintenance. I'll have to check later when it's brighter.

When I got the tank, it looked like the front right nozzle had a piece of hose that appeared to be cut. It was the hardest hose to remove.
 

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The clear tube with bubbles inside the tank has be baffled. Does your bike have the 'charcoal canister' installed in front of the swingarm? How many hoses are connected on the right side of the tank?

I am guessing that the tank has excess pressure in it causing the carburetor(s) to flood. This will cause the running issues you describe.
The old fuel tank I had did not appear to have the clear tube visible inside the fuel tank. So it's not something standard with the EN500C tanks? This is from a 2009 model.

Do my issues go with this thread or should I begin a new thread, outlining all the recent activity and maintenance done and the issues that developed?
 

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I did not view your video before responding before and agree that the noise is rather excessive for the 'singing' part. The noise is kind of a pressure release valve in the tank vent system. When the tank has excess pressure a valve opens and allows the pressure to dissipate in the air. Your bike is sitting in the sun, exacerbating the issue. The clear tube with bubbles inside the tank has be baffled. Does your bike have the 'charcoal canister' installed in front of the swingarm? How many hoses are connected on the right side of the tank?

I took a closer took and I don't believe I have a "charcoal canister" in front of the swingarm. The fuel tank does indeed have two hose connections on the right. I believe the front is left open near the right exhaust and the rear hose goes elsewhere, somewhere towards the middle.

I saw that both hose connections on the right had pipes or tubes inside. I think the front connection had a metal tube and the rear connection had the clear tube with liquid.

I found instructions on how to clean the tank cap using penetrating oil, so I went ahead and did that today.

I removed the oem air filter and of course it smelled like gasoline since fuel had poured out from there.

I opened the engine oil hole and it smelled strongly of gasoline, so I won't run the bike again until I do an oil change.

Does this mean spark plugs are likely going to need cleaning?

I am guessing that the tank has excess pressure in it causing the carburetor(s) to flood. This will cause the running issues you describe.

Regarding adjusting of the idle mix screws, *always* make adjustment with the engine at operating temperature and the choke fully closed. Any adjustment outside these parameters does not help. It is entirely possible to have each idle mix screw at a different settings. (ex.: Hidalgo has one side at 2 1/2 turns and the other at 3 1/2 turns) The idle mix screws will have no effect on fuel getting into the airbox. You may have mentioned it elsewhere but have you had the carbs off/cleaned?

Have the carbs been synchronized/balanced? If not do it (or have it done). Balanced carbs perform better.

Carbs haven't been synchronized/balanced. So far, I've adjusted it while idling warm to where the rpm seems highest. But it had difficulty starting even with throttle open, but that's the only way to start it. Is a cheap vacuum gauge easier to use than making a cheap manometer? I don't mind spending $20 more if it works better or easier.

Regarding bogging on acceleration: Is the air filter still in place? Without the air filter it gets too much air and does not run right. A K&N OEM replacement filter is good. Hidalgo has one.

Filter was always in place. I think both filters got fuel on them so it may have limited air flow.

The only incident that happened before all these new issues was that the bike ran out of fuel while idling well. I didn't realize so I tried starting again, which it did then shut off. The petcock was on reserve at the time. I wonder if air got into the fuel line or somewhere in the fuel tank.
 

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I think I got this figured.

Whistling Gas Cap - resolved by cleaning out with penetrating oil (no more sound, even after sitting out in the sun). No pressure release sound when opening fuel cap after running.

Starting and Idling Issue - resolved by cleaning and re-oiling my KN air filter. oil change resulted in black oil coming out (I went with BikerBill Fram and Pennzoil 10W-40 this time)

I was able to ride around and was accelerating when, once again, the engine shut off somewhere passing 30-35 mph. Being able to duplicate this issue while having resolved the other issues makes me think that the jet that controls the speed starting at 30-35 mph is clogged (perhaps some new debris got into the recently cleaned carb, although I realized afterwards that I forgot to force air through the jets).

Tomorrow's task will be re-check the carbs and clean the jets and force air through everything until I can see the air flow through, then reinstall. I'm hoping this will result in being able to ride beyond 30-35 mph, all the way to top speed. Let me know if there is anything else that would cut the engine off during acceleration.

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1. After the bike stalled out, it wouldn't want to start unless WOT. I attributed this to a flooded engine and read online that time evaporating the gas was necessary to restart it. A few hours later, I tried restarting and it did restart, although it didn't idle as strong as it should. I'm hoping that more time will get it back to normal, but if you have any tips on starting after flooding an engine, please let me know.

2. Do you know which jet (or part) controls the speeds beyond 30 mph?

3. I had ordered one carb rebuild kit and replaced the pilot screw assembly on the left carb. I can feel the spring feeling creaky on the right carb. Is there a way to know when the pilot screw needs to be replaced? I just saw some dirt buildup on the pilot needle where it poked out of the carb body.
 

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That is the Engine breather.....The hose attaches to the air box.....In the case of using pods it must have a filter on it.
 

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That is the Engine breather.....The hose attaches to the air box.....In the case of using pods it must have a filter on it.
So if the hose that connects to the Engine Breather looks like it has a crack and is a bit loose, does it need to be replaced?
 

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Valve Adjustment Done!

Will refill coolant.

Awaiting carb gasket, at which point I'll reassemble the carb.

Then, I'm hoping that the bike will run smooth without any issues.

The only two things that concern me are:

1. The Engine Breather hose is cracked where it connects to the Engine Breather.

2. When I checked the spark plugs, both were dry and black. I was able to wipe some of it off. I'll check what the black spark plugs mean.
 

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Valve Adjustment Done!

Will refill coolant.

Awaiting carb gasket, at which point I'll reassemble the carb.

Then, I'm hoping that the bike will run smooth without any issues.

The only two things that concern me are:

1. The Engine Breather hose is cracked where it connects to the Engine Breather.

2. When I checked the spark plugs, both were dry and black. I was able to wipe some of it off. I'll check what the black spark plugs mean.
Black plugs usually mean running rich. You can wrap the hose with black tape till you get a new one. :)
 

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Valve adjustment and carb cleaning/rebuild completed. But had difficulty starting. I yes see either spark plugs or air filter was the reason. I tried removing the air filter and it smelled like gasoline. I tried starting the bike with no air filter and full choke and it started up strong. I lowered the idle screw and changed to half choke and it idled at a steady speed. Then I went to no choke and it started faltering, so I stopped the engine. I figured it was too lean for no choke because there was no air filter.

I'm hoping that once the KN air filter is cleaned and installed, the bike will start up fine and run fine. ?
 

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Reinstalled air filter and had difficulty starting as if starved for air. Do I start with pilot screws closed off even more than 2 1/8 turns out? I've heard start at 1.5 turns out...

I'll try starting without any choke and WOT if that alone doesn't work.
 

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Reinstalled air filter and had difficulty starting as if starved for air. Do I start with pilot screws closed off even more than 2 1/8 turns out? I've heard start at 1.5 turns out...

I'll try starting without any choke and WOT if that alone doesn't work.
So KN Filter appears clean but the bike won't start or idle with an air filter. Bike continues to start and idle well without an air filter (idling falters a bit with no choke). I tried blocking the air filter opening a bit while it was idling without a filter and that appeared to negatively affect the idling.

Any suggestions?

Things I'm considering:
1. replace with non KN air filter
2. test compression in both sides
3. synchronize carbs using vacuum gauges

I'm getting to the point I just want to ride...
 

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So KN Filter appears clean but the bike won't start or idle with an air filter. Bike continues to start and idle well without an air filter (idling falters a bit with no choke). I tried blocking the air filter opening a bit while it was idling without a filter and that appeared to negatively affect the idling.

Any suggestions?

Things I'm considering:
1. replace with non KN air filter
2. test compression in both sides
3. synchronize carbs using vacuum gauges

I'm getting to the point I just want to ride...
Try with the standard air filter instead of the K&N as it my cause a very lean mixture.
 

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Try with the standard air filter instead of the K&N as it my cause a very lean mixture.
I was thinking my KN Filter is somehow causing rich symptoms since the bike runs fine without any air filter installed but has issues with the K&N. But yes, I'm starting to think I just need to try replacing the air filter and plugs with new ones.
 
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