Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
hello...
got a great deal on a 99 750 36k miles. doing the long neglected maint and repairs. love the bike, but,,, previous owner neglected it left outside ect. got alot of repairs done, did the stator mod and new regulator. charges great. i cleaned the contacts in the clutch starter lock out switch so now it can be started with the clutch engaged. i did the ignition coil power circuit mod so the coils have a separate power feed, man that one really helped the hot starts. I still hot 2 gremlins I am working. the first, is i had to run a separate power wire to the ignitor box to the red/white wire pin and unplug the origional wire to keep spark. problem was after starting bike and releasing the starter button the engine shut down due to loss of spark. I checked the red wire and it had good 12v. the two grounds , one for the safety switches checked good but i even tried running new grounds with the diode in the blk/wht and no help. the starter button connects power to the red/white wire so keeping separate power there keeps it running?? weird. second gremlin is after warm maybe like after 30 minutes of riding the engine loses power with the rear cylinder dropping out. i replaced both ignition coils and ignitor box and fuse box no help. checked and cleaned all grounds i could find. replaced pickup coils. i know the carbs are a major player here, i dud run seafoam thru a couple tanks of fuel, i tried turning the choke on during one of its temper tantrums when it was losing power and it made no difference at all. But the rides are fun and i really like the response and feel when its running good, makes my old yamaha 700 maxim i had seem like a toy. any ideas greatly appreciated...
love the ride
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,754 Posts
I would be glad to help, but I am curious... where you got the coil and power mods, etc., are they not able to assist you?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I got the parts off ebay and did all the work myself. i read about the mods online and did them, i have military background in electronics and mechanical, and personal computer and automobile repair experiance, however i am not an expert on anything and gladly accept assistance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,754 Posts
OK, could you:

1. Post the make and model number of your meter for my reference.
2. Describe the electrical mods that you did.

I may have more questions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
ok meter is micronta 22-185 bought at radio shack a long time ago.
the mods are in order:
stator mod with gcextreme tux plate and electrosport stator and new regulator. also i rewired the upper stator harness to the regulator including tieing in the yellow wire to junction box pin 9 to one of the stator leads for the hlamp ckt. old stator was fried black. next after that mod the engine would start but as soon as u let off starter button shutdown no spark. research and testing showed me the starter button applied power to 2 points when pressed, the red/white wire at pin 2 on the ignitor and also to the black/red wire at pin 11 on the junction box. i unplugged the red/white wire from the connector at the ignitor box and taped it off, as placing power there did engage the starter also. then ran a new power wire from jb to ignitor box pin 11 that became hot when ignition switched on. now bike starts and stays running after releasing starter button. ALSO just before doing this I did jump the sidestand switch wires together and verified grounds to both b/w and b/y wires on ignitor as well as verified good 12.5 v to red wire on pin 3 on ignitor box. now i can ride and put 500 or so miles on it but it still has an issue that it had when i first got it before any mods or repairs which is drops rear cylinder after warm only under load. sp next mod was to ignition coil mod, new power feed to both ignition coils direct to jb , hot when ignition on. next i swapped out both ignition coils. next i swapped out junction box as fan relay was fried anyway. next i swapped out ignitor box. next o swapped out pickup coils, all used parts from ebay but problem was exactly the same after each event. somewhere in the middle there i also cleaned starter lockout switch as starter would not engage clutch in, only would engage with clutch released. that fixed that concern. also in there somewhere i cleaned both battery connections and a bunch of grounds. sorry for the long post
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
the stator harness going to the regulator as you know has 3 yellow wires. one of these wires has a tap that goes to pin 9 on the junction box which supplies ac current thru a diode to dc then thru the headlamp relay coil causing the relay to engage thus lighting the hlamp. the hlamp does not come on with ignition, it waits till the ac signal is generated after engine starts then is converted to dc to energize the hlamp relay then the light comes on and another diode is supplied power from a seperate 12v source, 10a hlamp fuse, when the contacts close in the relay and loops it back up to the hlamp relay coil thus keeping the hlamp on even after the engine stops until ignition is switched off. i cut the yellow wire at the old stator wire and spliced it onto the new stator wire, one of the 3 ac feeds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,754 Posts
I know how the circuit works, just that it seemed like you said that you rewired the yellow from the regulator up to the junction box.

Next, did the regulator test bad or was it replaced on spec?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,754 Posts
starter button applied power to 2 points when pressed, the red/white wire at pin 2 on the ignitor and also to the black/red wire at pin 11 on the junction box. i unplugged the red/white wire from the connector at the ignitor box and taped it off, as placing power there did engage the starter also. then
OK, could you clear this up. Why did you remove the red/white wire from ignitor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
to keep the engine running after starter button released. i traced the circuits to see why it would stay running with starter button pressed. found only 2 things that happened when button pressed, power to red/white wire in ibox and power to jb for starter relay. so i duplicated the event with a jumper wire from red/white to power and yes it kept it running but also kept the starter engaged. so i isolated the 2 circuits by unhooking the power from starter button to ignitor and ran my own wire. why does keeping power on the red/white pin 2 on ibox keep the spark working is a great mystery to me, the only thing i can think of is maybe the temp power being placed there only on starting bypasses the safty switches only as far as the ignitor is concerned, as the starter has its own lock outs still via neutral and clutch switches. i am sure u know the ibox only needs the sidestand switch closed to get its ground , it dont care about clutch and neutral switches unless sidestand is down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
so i could isolate that wire from the starter circuit. now i can keep power on this pin on ig box without engaging starter
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
no, it has to keep constant power on that pin or no spark if i hook it back up engine stalls after starter button released ,if i leave it hooked up and jump power to it engine runs but starter stayes engaged
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,754 Posts
OK, got you.

I believe that ignitor pin is probably a term that knocks back the timing a few degrees for starting purposes. It would be easy enough to prove, just have never got around to it.
It is not an over ride for the diode interlocks.

If leaving it connected as it should be presents a problem, it looks like you have an ignitor issue and if you leave the pin connected to 12v, I can see all kinds of driveability problems showing up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
yes, i think so also, swapped it out and exact same problems no change whatsoever so i am stumped for now anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
nope, none of the parts are except stator and regulator both new. i will give it some thought thank you very much for the help..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,754 Posts
If you have a known good ignitor that will not work correctly in your bike, post back and I might be able to give you a few more tests.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top