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I used a relay also.
When I ran wires for aux light(s)/Horn,Fore and aft many years ago, on the first valve check. With the tank off there are all kinds of connections to piggy back off of for triggering relays.
I ran 14ga. marine wire, just for the Battery gauge (very little voltage loss)

Most relays come with hook up instructions(what to connect not where)
Just make ALL your connections as water/vibration proof as possible.
 

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I have a Battery Bug on my battery which is on all of the time. It draws so little current as to not be an issue.
I am not sure what the Kuryakyn draws, but maybe to be on the safe side, it should be on switched power.

I can help you if no one else can, but if someone here has done it, let them chime in.
Sfair - you helped me with an electrical problem not too long ago and it ended up being the battery so I have been thinking of getting a Kuryakyn or the battery bug, I understand exactly what the Kury does but not sure of the technology of the battery bug so a couple questions if you don't mind.
  1. Would you recommend the Battery Bug?
  2. Do you know how it "monitors" the battery? I ask because when my battery was bad it was still showing 12.9 volts static, it was only when current was drawn that it went to 0 volts, which is why I am not sure I would trust just a volt reading.
  3. Can you see static voltage and, separately, charging voltage while on a tender?
Thanks a bunch in advance!
 

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If you can find a Battery Bug, buy it!
They are no longer in business, but you might find old stock or used. (part#BB-SBM12-PS)
It uses an algorithm that monitors battery performance and gives you a percentage of battery life left, besides battery voltage.
They actually infringed on some patents, thus went out of business.
I replaced my battery last year when the display said 10% remaining life.
 

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If you can find a Battery Bug, buy it!
They are no longer in business, but you might find old stock or used. (part#BB-SBM12-PS)
It uses an algorithm that monitors battery performance and gives you a percentage of battery life left, besides battery voltage.
They actually infringed on some patents, thus went out of business.
I replaced my battery last year when the display said 10% remaining life.
Gotcha, and yes everywhere I found it, it ultimately said unavailable or out of stock. Guess I will still get the Kury, I haven't found anything similar to the battery bug either.

I did find it on Ebay from a seller in England, but a little iffy.

Thanks for the info!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Gotcha, and yes everywhere I found it, it ultimately said unavailable or out of stock. Guess I will still get the Kury, I haven't found anything similar to the battery bug either.

I did find it on Ebay from a seller in England, but a little iffy.

Thanks for the info!!!
I looked up the description and also a bunch of first-hand reviews on Amazon and it looks pretty impressive to me. Too bad that the actual implementation is actually not very appealing. :serious: The "good" side of the story is that you cannot find it anywhere anymore. :grin2:

Whose patent did they infringe on?

The device looks capable of measuring more and more accurately than the Kury voltmeter...
 

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Been looking into this a little more and was hoping the current draw was small enough to hook directly to the battery, like the battery bug, but I can't find the current draw. However, the instructions are pretty clear about making sure you find a wire that is only one when the bike is turned on.



So right off the bat that bothers me a bit just because I can't see static voltage when the battery is just sitting. I don't put mine on the tender every time I pull back in the garage because I don't think that is good for the battery either since it just came back from a charge, so would be nice to see if its gone down slightly and needs to be charged up.

If I go with this one I am definitely going to invest into those Posi-Tap connectors, those are awesome!
 

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Want to know how much it draws, key off.... connect it to an ammeter and find out.
Or, call Kuryakyn and ask them what the draw is. Depending on the LEDs they use it could range from a few mA per LED to maybe 10-20ma per LED.

In either case, likely it's more than one wants for a key-off parasitic load.
 

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I would rather see a well done Posi Tap than a poorly done cut/splice/solder.
Post back with any questions.
Hello there, thank you very much indeed for posting this. Hopefully you still will read the feedbacks to your post, for I am a bit late to inquire. Whether could I know your recommendations on a specifically Posi-Tap product:
1. Exact recommended AWG (or else B or whichever you'd prefer to converse). In my guessing it's 18-24 would be a decent fit, please correct me.
2. A proven trustworthy manufacturer which may provide with a solid quality of unit/junction. (I am not quite sure in a Custom-Dynamics particularly).
Thank you very much in advance,
Also if somebody else may find my question worth to response, would be much appreciated.
 

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Kuryakyn K4219 LED Battery Gauge, simple 2 wire connection
 
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