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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced the brakes on my vulcan 900 I bled the brakes. Wasn't working. Thinking it was the reservoir I changed it out too. Still nothing. I put dot 4 brake fluid. I also rotated the brake line still not working. Put it back the way it was then changed the brake washers to brass still nothing I will pray replace the brake washer to the original washers still nothing it had brake fluid but it's still not working I took the cap off I'm exhausting all my effort can anyone please give me advice or anybody wants to buy it give me 3500 for it
 

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Welcome to the forum from North Carolina. Assuming the brakes worked before doing the pads. Are you saying there is no pressure when applying the brake? Is this the front or rear brake? When pushing the pistons back into the caliper to fit in the new pads, did they go back into the caliper without much effort? Asking to determine if the caliper pistons are not frozen. Was there any other difficulty when replacing the pads or reinstalling the caliper? Does the wheel spin freely after the new pads were installed? Dot 4 is the correct brake fluid for your bike. Also here is a link to download a factory repair manual and a procedure to bleed the brake system. Post back on how you make out. We will be happy to further help.


Here is my standard reply for bleeding brakes.
Make sure you cover the bike because brake fluid is harmful to most surfaces, especially paint. You can buy a tool like the Mighty-Vac or try this low cost method.
Go to a feed store or Vet supply and get one of their largest Syringes. This should not cost more that a couple of bucks. Use clear plastic tubing (available at any automotive store) that will slide onto the syringe and be the right size for the brake bleeder valve.
Remove your brake reservoir cover and suck out the old fluid. Empty the syringe.
Fill with new fluid and just lay the cover back on. Don’t install the screws.
Install the hose on the brake bleeder valve and on the syringe.
Open the bleeder valve a turn and a half and draw back on the syringe. This will suck the fluid and air bubbles into the syringe.
If you need to draw the fluid more than once, make sure you close the bleeder valve when emptying the syringe.
Be sure to keep checking the reservoir, you do not want to empty it and start drawing air into the system.
After you get clean fluid the coming through the hose, close the valve.
Fill the reservoir to the line and install the cover.
Also make sure your brake lever and pedal isn’t binding. Lube with appropriate lubricant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for your reply the brakes went on fine but I removed my caliper from the front forks meaning disconnecting the brake hose brake pads went fine with no difficulties I replaced the pads put them back on my forks then I connected the hose back but now it's not working I'm trying everything .
 

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Sound like it got a lot of air inside and is air bound. Fill the brake reservoir. Set the top on but do not screw it down. Slowly used the brake lever back and forth 10 times and see if the fluid level drops. Open the bleeder valve a crack for a while and let gravity pull some fluid into the system. Bleed the brakes again with the syringe. Will need the syringe to create some vacuum to pull the fluid into the hose and caliper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sound like it got a lot of air inside and is air bound. Fill the brake reservoir. Set the top on but do not screw it down. Slowly used the brake lever back and forth 10 times and see if the fluid level drops. Open the bleeder valve a crack for a while and let gravity pull some fluid into the system. Bleed the brakes again with the syringe. Will need the syringe to create some vacuum to pull the fluid into the hose and caliper.
I gravitating it fluid is coming out of the end of the hose. I put it back on the caliper. I have the caliper zirt open . Now if fluid is coming out but it stop. Am I on the right track?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I been on this for a whole week. And still not working.. there is a motorcycle shop I asked them how much it would cost. 50 bucks an hour. F in ridiculous.
 

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Hi Vic. You will need to create some vacuum to pull the fluid through the system. Gravity will not pull the fluid past the internal components of the brake caliper.
 

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Actually $50 per hour is on the low side. The average dealership‘s expenses total hundreds of thousands of dollars a month. Depending on location, have seen hourly labor rates up to $150 in expensive areas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi Vic. You will need to create some vacuum to pull the fluid through the system. Gravity will not pull the fluid past the internal components of the brake caliper.
Well I finally got it done. I took all of everyone advice and got it. Thank you for all y'all comments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Happy to hear it worked out. Did you do the rear brake too?
Yes sir the rear was easy. But yes sir. If I have any other questions I'll be asking. Thanks again. Biker buddy. God Bless and stay safe.
 

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You can put on a 200 and use your present wheel. Can go to a 230 but will need a wider wheel. A wheel from a 900 custom will fit without modification. There will be some other trimming of the belt guard and the inner fender to mount the 230. Here are a couple of forum searches that discuss both.


 
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