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Discussion Starter #1
I just finished installing a baron tach last night. Overall it went pretty easy. the idle seems to be setting around 1200-1400 which seems a little high. Not sure if it's the tach or what. I'm going to have the shop check it out on the first service. Other than that it seems to work fine.


 

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Discussion Starter #3
You can if you have enough room (according to baron). The drag bars on my bike don't allow enough room at least for this style tach.
 

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The reason I asked is looking at my Custom, i didn't think that a tack would fit below the bars, but the Barons web site shows a picture of a tack that looks to be on a 900C mounted inverted/below the bars. Maybe its a 2 inch unit? (They show a 3 in white unit on what looks to be a 900 Custom)

Thanks for the response.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I looked at that one. In the specs the housing size is 2 7/8s. I measured the vertical clearance between the speedometer housing and the handle bar and I come up with ~2.5" of clearance. The offset of the gauge might be more allowing the rear of the tach to clear the speedo housing. It looks like I can mount mine that way however, the tach will cover part of the speedo and be facing up.
 

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I put the same Tach on my LT about 4 months ago and really like it. I put it on top between the two fork risers. As you said, easy to install. Mine odols arounf 1000-1100 and I usually keep it under 4700 top end (4000-4500 on the frwy).

 

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Just curious... as I'm at work and don't have the browsing opportunity, what's the cost? That would be a nice thing to have handy.
 

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minimum RPM

I have read somewhere that there is minimum rpm that you should set the bike to idle at per the oil pump needs to spin at a certain speed to deliver oil properly to all parts of the engine at idle. I can't off hand remember the correct setting, but it is definitly something to keep in mind when trying to set that little idle adjuster. I originally cut my idle back for a better sound, but then cranked it up a little to make sure I wasn't hurting the engine.

Is there a way to check the idle without buying a tach kit? I shift my feel, but I wouldn't mind being able to check my idle rpm accurately.
 

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The Cobra tachs are $200.00 (Cobra's web price, maybe less else where). They sure look good and nearly half the price of Kaw's.

I think my owners manual (or service manual) states idle to be at 1000 to 1050 rpm.
 

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Just curious... as I'm at work and don't have the browsing opportunity, what's the cost? That would be a nice thing to have handy.
I think I paid about $180 for mine.
 

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Did you guys happen to run the tach to 1 or both of the negative coils. I previously had a tach installed on my 900 to one of the coils and I thought I was getting the correct reading. Then I was told by someone on the forum that the tach needed to be connected to both negative coils. So I did that this weekend, using the instruction from the http://www.gadgetjq.com/tach_install.htm website, but when I was done - there were no reading to the tach. - double checked the work twice and nothing. When I removed one of the leads, the tach would work. Just wondering if anyone had this problem? Thanks.
 

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Keven20....I'll just bet you have the diodes connected in reverse,,,,The band on the diode points to the direction of current flow. If you have followed the flow chart you should be fine....Check those diodes to be sure..


Attach the two leads, one to the black and the other to black/green of the two coils.....lower right side of each coil...
 

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Hey Wizard. I checked the connections twice. I even did second setup and made sure the the units were pointing in the same direction (to the tach) and had she same results. Is it possible that the tach only requires one input to function?
 

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The 900 requires the input from each coil IF you use Drag Specialities or similar type tach. I suspect(assume) that IF you have used a Kawasaki OEM type or similar you will be informed of the proper connections. However using the tach you have(like mine I suspect -- http://www.vulcanforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=578&size=big&cat= both coils have to be used as it is a single fire system...Reading low rpm, or half is indicative of the necessity to use both.......Having said all that ----what tach are you using????
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I followed the single fire adapter universal fitment instructions and did not have any problems except my first ground was not good enough.


connections as follows:


Yellow wire of adapter to negative on front coil.
Blue wire of adapter to negative on rear coil.
Green wire of adapter to green wire of tach (tach input signal)
Red and blue wires of tach to positive terminal of coil (or other 12v switched source). These are tach power and tach back Light.
Black to chassis ground. I tried the block first time around and had some bouncing issues at mid range, grounding to the chassis corrected the issue.

According to the instructions (which was correct on my bike) Kawasaki uses Red/Green for common positive and Black or Black/Green for negative.
 

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http://www.df.lth.se/~jokke/tach/ -- Shows the Harley way of making your tack work ...using a jumper to pick off both inputs from each coil....Sportster is a single fire system like the 900...Check this link out and see if you get satisfaction....I prefer to see the adaptor used personally............I'm not surprised at the reply you received for your question...
 

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Thanks man, very helpful information. Seems that the polarity for the harness (based on the information in the link) should have been pointing in the oposite direction (towards the coil versus towards the tach as compared to the other instructions) and that's why I had a zero read out. I'll try this weekend to hook everything back up again and I will let you know how this progress. Thanks again for the valuable information.
 

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Since the 900 is a single fire, the Tach required an adapter (which came with it at no extra cost). I just followed the instructions given and all worked fine.
 
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