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Anyone got a good method to jack the front of the vulcan s for front wheel removal. I have a rear stand onto bobbins for the back end that works fine but the front isn't so easy. My local shop said it's ok to jack onto the sump with a block of wood and a bit of padding and I used that method today and it worked ok but have to say it felt a bit unstable. The frame running across behind the headers looks ideal but I can't find a way to get in there without taking the exhaust off (not happening). I have a trolley jack and a scissor jack but nowhere I can find to use them safely.
 

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Don’t recommend jacking on any engine. Use 2x4’s and make a wood frame that hits on the frame rails. Glue or tack some rubber (like from a floor mat) to it where it hits the frame. If your garage has rafters, after the bike is jacked up with the trolley, secure the handlebars to them with a couple of straps. It will steady the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Unfortunately I don't have rafters as the garage is internal and plaster boarded, seen steps used for this, may be able to do something similar. As for making up a wood frame I don't see anywhere on the Vulcan S where you can get access to any part of the frame except for as I said the cross member just behind the headers but again without taking off the exhaust that is pretty much inaccessible to. I know Kawasaki make a "special" twin scissor jack for this purpose but I'm not prepared to shell out £££££ just to get the front wheel 2 inches off the ground.
 

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There’s no frame rails under the KVS to place anything. It’s not a typical cruiser. There’s only the engine sump pan or muffler and I would not recommend doing that.
Believe me, there’s nowhere to access a lifting point on that bike, aside from the crossbar at the front and without taking the exhaust off, is not really accessible. I bought a venom front head lift (triple tree) stand that worked perfect.
 

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I bought a head lift jack and it failed because it didn't have enough reach to get under with the raked out forks.
I ended up taking the top half off and fitted bolts the same size as the jacking axle pins and welded some short counter sink screws that fit into the holes bored into the centre of the shocks.
You need to take the axle lock screw out so you don't damage the thread but it works really well and very stable.
I park mine in a front wheel chock and after I fit the rear paddock stand I can lift the front end straight up out the chock.
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Doh I was close to pulling the trigger on a head stand. Now I'm a little confused - VulcanHead has a venom triple tree and it works perfectly while at least two other posts on here say either the arm doesn't reach the head or the lift doesn't go high enough to get the front wheel off the ground. On a side note what size is hole for the pin to fit into on the KVS ? Is there a definitive answer as to which triple tree has enough reach to get to the head and enough height to lift the wheel off the ground as well as enough strength to hold the weight.
 

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Doh I was close to pulling the trigger on a head stand. Now I'm a little confused - VulcanHead has a venom triple tree and it works perfectly while at least two other posts on here say either the arm doesn't reach the head or the lift doesn't go high enough to get the front wheel off the ground. On a side note what size is hole for the pin to fit into on the KVS ? Is there a definitive answer as to which triple tree has enough reach to get to the head and enough height to lift the wheel off the ground as well as enough strength to hold the weight.
Get the Venom branded stand, with the 27mm pin and it will lift it off the ground. (Make sure your rear stand is in place first!) I don’t know about any of those other brands, but the venom works. The venom fork lift stand also works. www.kapscomoto.com is your friend.
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Anyone got a good method to jack the front of the vulcan s for front wheel removal. I have a rear stand onto bobbins for the back end that works fine but the front isn't so easy. My local shop said it's ok to jack onto the sump with a block of wood and a bit of padding and I used that method today and it worked ok but have to say it felt a bit unstable. The frame running across behind the headers looks ideal but I can't find a way to get in there without taking the exhaust off (not happening). I have a trolley jack and a scissor jack but nowhere I can find to use them safely.
Here's a method that I have used on MCs similar to yours. You need three points of contact to get good stability. The back tire is one. The kickstand is two (not centerstand). Then a jack (maybe with block of wood) placed on right side (opposite side as kickstand) as far forward as possible is three. You ought to be able to find something solid; frame, oil pan edge, etc...Before jacking up, place wood under kickstand till MC is almost upright. Once you start jacking, the MC will lean toward left side, but I've not found that to be a practical issue. The stance is actually quite wide and I typically find plenty of stability. I just had my 68th birthday... so I have lots of experience. Maybe not so smart, but definitely experienced.
 

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They have a special setup that plugs into the frame up front. The part number in the Kawasaki manual is
Jack 57001-1238
 

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They have a special setup that plugs into the frame up front. The part number in the Kawasaki manual is
Jack 57001-1238
Yeah, it's basically a scissor lift you can buy for about $70 with custom saddles to rest under the cross bar.
It's more targeted for mechanics and dealerships. The same thing can be had by making the saddles to suit a generic lift.
You need to remove the exhaust which is painfull just to lift up the front wheel.
 

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Yeah, it's basically a scissor lift you can buy for about $70 with custom saddles to rest under the cross bar.
It's more targeted for mechanics and dealerships. The same thing can be had by making the saddles to suit a generic lift.
You need to remove the exhaust which is painfull just to lift up the front wheel.
I just looked it up and as suspected, US$360.00 plus shipping.
 

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There’s a crossbar under the radiator that is the appropriate lifting point. Kawasaki sells a jack to get to it, but it’s ridiculously expensive. I put my back wheel on a lift and then used a block of wood and a skinny bottle jack to lift the front at that crossbar from behind the exhaust headers. It’s was plenty secure and didn’t require anything expensive.
 

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Ii got these off Revzilla for $60 each worked great for me...i do have fender eliminator kit on so the rear tire was able to come off might need to remove license plate bracket to get rear tire off if its still stock. It just lifts by the front forks & the rear spools. I had it lifted all winter gave me no issues and felt very secure
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When I needed to change the front wheel I put the bike on the rear stand and used straps with padding around the handle bars and lifted with an engine hoist. The hoist is was also usefull for changing the rear shock and for many other projects around the house, like lifting the 1/2 inch steel top onto the frame for the welding table......

Regards ... Doug
 
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