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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello. My97 Vulcan 800 has a 4 day old battery in it. started just fine up until yesterday and it won't start unless push started. Solenoid under the seat makes fast clicking noise and starter doesn't turn when attempting electric start.

Another thing. My headlight is out despite the new expensive bulb. Checked fuse box on the bike's left side under the seat and the fuses appeared to be fine. Checked connections and the endings on the inside of the connectors and they too appeared to be fine. Anywhere I could find a new headlight wiring harness specifically? I'd like to to be as plug and play as possible
 

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Almost sounds like you have a bad battery. Have you tried jumping it from a known good battery? Your vehicle will be fine to jump it with as long as you do not have the vehicle running. Have you checked the charging system voltage?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I haven't checked the voltage on the charging system. I have yet to purchase a multimeter. What points would I be checking from?
Also that'll be the second battery it has gone through. I replaced the stator and regulator about 2 days ago. It sucked the life out of the battery I had literally just purchased for it on the 29th of December when I ran it that day. Got the new battery after I replaced the stator and regulator, ran it a few times and now it doesn't have enough juice to start.
 

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If the bike can be started, a place to start when checking voltage is at the battery terminals. The voltage should be in the neighborhood of 13.8 - 14 volts with the engine running. Check voltage with the engine idling and also at above idle speed. You mentioned that you had a new bulb in the headlight - is that bulb one which has a higher lighting output than OEM? If when doing the elementary voltage check as above the voltage is OK, then if your headlamp is a high output type it may be that the bike's charging system doesn't deliver enough current to run the headlight and take care of the bike's other electrical requirements, which eventually will deplete the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the bulb does have a higher output than OEM. i replaced the original because the headlight stopped working so i got a new one to rule out the possibility of it being the bulb. Another thing i'm wondering about is after a run, my gas cap lets out a soft tooooooooooooooot or a gentle whistle. Why is this? once i open the gas cap, a release of pressure follows as if there was a build up of vapors within the tank. Is this normal?
 

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the bulb does have a higher output than OEM. i replaced the original because the headlight stopped working so i got a new one to rule out the possibility of it being the bulb. Another thing i'm wondering about is after a run, my gas cap lets out a soft tooooooooooooooot or a gentle whistle. Why is this? once i open the gas cap, a release of pressure follows as if there was a build up of vapors within the tank. Is this normal?
Gas cap is venting,does it on my 1700,normal:smile2:
 

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Headlight will not work if charging system is not functioning correctly.

Why did you replace the stator and reg/rect?
 

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1) My experience tells me that any new car/motorcycle/whatever battery should always be fully charged prior using.
2) Not having a simple multi-meter is really a pain. Well, You can take a simple low wattage 12V bulb and make a simple wire tester to find out if there's a voltage on any electrical contact in wiring, but it will not help to test Your alternator for charging abilities :(
3) Go the easiest way. Get a multimeter or a simple voltmeter first.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ah I see. With a new stator and regulator (replaced because the seller said it did need a new one), what could be the issue with the charging system?
My tail and brake lights work minus the signal lights since I took those off to replace them.
 

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Another thing i'm wondering about is after a run, my gas cap lets out a soft tooooooooooooooot or a gentle whistle. Why is this?

that can happen when filling up the gas tank too full to the top and gas gets into the air vent tube which then creates a blockage of air to the tank which then creating a vacuum inside the tank, just blow out that vent hole somehow at the gas cap opening to expel any gas that's inside that air vent tube
 

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You will need a meter to troubleshoot this issue.

We can help with the purchase and use if you want to do this yourself.

As to the whoosh, after a run, the engine heat rises up and heats the air and gas in the tank which causes a build up in tank pressure, but not enough to trip the pressure release valve. When you open the cap, the excess "pressure" vents causing the whoosh.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yes. I'd definitely like to do this myself. I have come across a mulitmeter that is readily available to me.
 

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youtube is your friend, i would search around on it and find some vids that explain how to use one, i don't know how to use a multi-meter just thought i would put that in as a suggestion to help
 

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Ok:

1. Put black lead to COM plug, red lead to V.
2. Set selector switch to V, 20 setting.
3. Red probe to battery positive, black to negative.
4. Take reading.

Post back with reading.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm not home, currently to check it but I'm quite sure that the battery is drained. it now needs a jump to get going. when I get home I will check the battery but once the reading shows up as well below the norm, what then? buying another battery wouldn't be very smart since I've already done that once, and then had THAT one replaced under warranty. Now this one is drained just the same as the last.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
UPDATE...
Went home and checked battery. Before turning key, multimeter displayed a solid 10.51 volts. After turning key it displayed 9.5 and 10 seconds later 8.5 and decreasing. what next?
 

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I think with motor running, and leads put on battery posts, should read over 13.5v at idle
 

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oh, I just checked google, a good battery with bike not running battery should read 12.6v, and bike running should read 13.7v to 14.7v
 
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