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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
Been having trouble starting my 900 vulcan. Thought it was the battery but replaced it. My lights work, clean and checked all fuses but to no avail? It sound like the bike isn't turning over? When I push start it there is no problem? Go to turn it on again and it won't fire? It has 35,000 miles in just 2 years. I need help with this? I'm thinking starter. Back in the summer it acted like it wouldn't start? Thanks to all those that could help me?
 

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This might sound like bonehead stuff, but have you also cleaned and tightened the battery, starter relay, and starter connections and the cable connectors to those parts?
 

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If your battery cables are tight then the next suspect is the starter relay. You will need a person who has an electrical tilt to sort through the starter circuit for you.
 

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Your post is a little confusing. Are you saying that the starter does not work?
Also, Kawasaki starters are very robust and trouble-free. They are number 11 on a list of 10 usual no-start suspects.

Post back.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey guys, let me clarify. I thought it was the battery so I purchased a new one. The starting is spinning and I checked the fuses including the main. A friend of mine at Kawasaki said it sound like the starter clutch? Where is the starter relay located? Is it under the seat compartment? It's getting juice but it wont turn the engine over!
 

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So, what you are saying is that the starter is running when you push the button but the engine is not turning over?
Have to be crystal clear on this.

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Discussion Starter #9
I have purchased a new battery and had the starter removed, inspected and cleaned. Mechanic said that it was in good working order. Looks like the bendix wont fly out to turn the engine over? I've cleaned, checked connections, changed fuses etc... Give me some ideas please. Could it be the wet clutch. I've checked the kickstand and its in good working order too!
 

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Still not clear on the problem. Is it:

1. Starter does not run and no engine turn over.
2. Starter runs but does not turn over engine.
3. Starter runs and turns over engine but engine does not start.
4. Starter runs and turns over engine, but very slow.

No Bendix on these units. It is a one way clutch.

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Still not clear on the problem. Is it:

1. Starter does not run and no engine turn over.
2. Starter runs but does not turn over engine.
3. Starter runs and turns over engine but engine does not start.
4. Starter runs and turns over engine, but very slow.

No Bendix on these units. It is a one way clutch.

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SFair and Roman's 5.8 - I'm going to hijack this thread a little since I have a similar problem to the OP (and he hasn't responded in a while...)

I have a starter that just whines when I push the button. Every now and then it will engage, but it has been doing this with progressively less engagement. The last reliable starting that I had was really before I did my stator installation about a month and a half ago (if you remember, I was actively looking into starter stuff there for a bit as well).

I don't think that the two are related, since my starter "problems" really were even occurring when I bought the bike 14 months ago. They just weren't often enough to have the mechanics think that there was a real issue. But now I keep cursing the fact that street bikes don't provide a "kick-start" of any nature for emergencies!

I'm pretty sure that I'm going to have to replace the starter one-way clutch, which I can certainly find as a part. But I'm trying to identify what other things will be needed to do this, as it appears that there might be other gaskets/bolts/parts that should be considered part of the exercise. (We'll probably also rebuild the starter just-in-case at that time - or at least replace the bushings).

Can either of you provide some kinda list of the various things which I will need to also order in addition to the starter clutch?

Really appreciate the assistance which you have both provided, and thank you again in advance!

Mac.
 

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1. What year is it?
2. How many miles?
3. The noise is it a chattering or a siren sound?
Thanks, sfair -
1 - 2007 Classic LT
2 - 17K miles now
3 - This is a little hard to answer - it has never been a "chatter", but sometimes has been a bit of a grinding. Mostly, though, it's probably the "siren" sound, which I have described as a whine.

It has done this off and on since I got the bike a year ago, and has gotten worse. Seems to have really had the death-knoll rung after fighting the charging system in the last couple of months. From then on (even with a new battery, showing good charge), it would take multiple attempts to start. And when it did, it often caught with a definite "clunk" type of sound just as it engaged.

(I just love trying to describe sounds - and I'm sure that you love hearing about the descriptions, too. :rolleyes:)

Have not found many sources yet for the starter one-way clutch, but haven't had much of a chance to look yet, either.

Thanks again for all of the help
Mac.
 

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How often does it do the whining on start-up?
Every time now - it wouldn't start at all the last couple of times with dozens of attempts. Even if I got it started now, I wouldn't expect to get it started the next time so I won't be using it until I replace the clutch.

Thanks again for the help...
 

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Every time now - it wouldn't start at all the last couple of times with dozens of attempts. Even if I got it started now, I wouldn't expect to get it started the next time so I won't be using it until I replace the clutch.

Thanks again for the help...
Sfair - I notice on another thread that you felt a similar problem could also be because of the torque limiter? Could you elaborate as to how I can distinguish between the two in finding the culprit? And which is more likely to be the offending part?

Thanks once more - Mac.
 

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Well, now...I will get a better look tomorrow, but my friend here who has been looking into this has found that a piece of block casting which forms the inner area for the cross shaft coming back from the torque limiter is broken off. (Please note that my terminology might not be correct...)

Right now, it appears that my options will be to remove the engine and then either:
A- get a new right side casting
B- get a replacement block
C- have the present block fixed

I might have other options, or have mis-stated my present ones, so any thoughts are appreciated. For an engine which has run AMSOIL since I got it and only has 17K miles, I'm a bit perturbed.

As I said, I'll get a better idea tomorrow. But this really sucks on the heals of the friggin' alternator scenario. And if it truly is a "non-replaceable" part such as the block (in so far as we can actually replace an engine, I mean one's that aren't designed to be replaced), I'm going to have to consider parting out the bike instead and recouping the present costs.

Same scenario as my short-run Suzi Volusia - owing 4K on a 4.5K bike where I can get 3K from it vs having 6K in it. And not being comfortable riding it any distance?

This sucks! I really thought that I'ld have this one for a good while... and I might have to look at my 250 again if it's still for sale, if I want to keep riding.

Any thoughts appreciated, all.
Mac.
 

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Well, now...I will get a better look tomorrow, but my friend here who has been looking into this has found that a piece of block casting which forms the inner area for the cross shaft coming back from the torque limiter is broken off. (Please note that my terminology might not be correct...)

Right now, it appears that my options will be to remove the engine and then either:
A- get a new right side casting
B- get a replacement block
C- have the present block fixed

I might have other options, or have mis-stated my present ones, so any thoughts are appreciated. For an engine which has run AMSOIL since I got it and only has 17K miles, I'm a bit perturbed.

As I said, I'll get a better idea tomorrow. But this really sucks on the heals of the friggin' alternator scenario. And if it truly is a "non-replaceable" part such as the block (in so far as we can actually replace an engine, I mean one's that aren't designed to be replaced), I'm going to have to consider parting out the bike instead and recouping the present costs.

Same scenario as my short-run Suzi Volusia - owing 4K on a 4.5K bike where I can get 3K from it vs having 6K in it. And not being comfortable riding it any distance?

This sucks! I really thought that I'ld have this one for a good while... and I might have to look at my 250 again if it's still for sale, if I want to keep riding.

Any thoughts appreciated, all.
Mac.
For some clarification - it is the shoulder/socket/bushing (however you want to term it) in which rides a short shaft on the right side that contains a step-down or idler sprocket. (Again, terminology might not be accurate.)

The engine casing appears to contain a press-in and welded socket for this 2"-3" shaft, and the casing socket is half gone now. Was probably already cracked when I bought the bike last year, as I have had increasing difficulty starting it, but even had problems back then.

Including a picture with the socket circled, as well as the two major pieces of it that broke off. Any thoughts would really be appreciated. Figuring at a minimum having to have a machine shop work the casting with a new welded socket, or even a new casing.

Mac.
 

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You have a real situation there. You could:

1. Replace the cases. About $850 for cases plus other parts required in the split, plus labor.
2. Split the cases and take the right side to a machine shop and have that part made and replaced. Could be expensive too including labor.
3. Look for another used engine. Depending on the price, could be the cheapest option.
4. Have the pieces welded back on with a re-enforcing collar around it. I am not sure this is possible.
 

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Yep, those are about what I figured for the options... ;(

I'm assuming that none of you have ever heard of a similar situation? I can't find any indications that others have gone through this, so I'm chalking it up to the perpetual "grey cloud" that seems to follow me around according to my wife and my father... DOOoohhhh.

Seems that I might end up back at my original idea - get more outa it if I part it out and then buy another bike. If I'ld had it longer or it had more miles, I might have more faith. But I hadn't even owned it a year when I had both the alternator and this happen, and it only has about 17-18K miles.

Darn it....
 
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