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Are there any draw backs except not having your stock pipes to do a stage 2 debaffle I saw it done on youtube but I couldnt figure out why they used a sawz all to cut the inside pipe why didnt they use a dremel with cut blades?? Seems like you wouldnt have to bend the sawzall blade to get a good straight cut and you wouldnt be prone to messin up your paint on the inside lip of the exhaust.ALSO my big question is Is there any o2 sensor on the bike its 2009 custom 900 does debaffling mess with the power or anything critical??????I see everyone doin it but is it safe to do????
 

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Sawzall is faster than a Dremel and the cutoff disks are fragile. I didn't bend my Sawzall blade but you can easily get into trouble if not extremely careful...even then you'll pucker a few times so a bent blade is still best. The US 900 is open loop, no O2 sensor. I've only heard one person complain about a loss of performance from the debaffle. The popular debaffle is still leaving the 1" hole that the baffle attached to; the exhaust is still restricted. If you open up the plate by the cat converter a fuel processor may be needed. I opened the second plate to 2-1/4" but already had the Fi2000r and made changes to my stock intake so I can't speak to the effect of a stock system. If you open up the second plate it will definitely get louder (but not ugly load- I go to work at 5am) if that is a concern.
 

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Baitis, what size Sawzall blade did you use, I have noticed some discussion that says that a smaller blade is better than the 6" blade. I guess the cut is on a bit of a diagonal, right? I have a Sawzall but not a Dremel, so I guess I will use the Sawzall! I already have completed Stage One and noticed a little bit of increased power at take-off, but that may just be my mind thinking I am riding a rocket ship. Sounds much better, so I am going to go to Stage 2 with 4 holes.... don't want it too loud to where my wife notices it with the door closed....
 

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I used a standard sawzall blade when doing mine, no bending, and did contact the inside of the pipe a couple of times. I also found from experience that the blade jumps around a lot less if you're cutting from the bottom up instead of top down.

I wouldn't worry about the inside of the pipe too much as:
1) 99.9% of people are going to look in there.
2) The carbon build up covers most everything in there eventually.
3) It's very easy to touch up the inside of the pipes with high-temp black paint.

If you're not careful, though, the blade can jump and you run the risk of making contact with the outside of the pipes, although I didn't run across that problem. If ya want to be extra extra careful, go ahead and dremel, just know that you're going to go through a few cutting disks. Either way, take your time and you'll do fine. It's trying to rush through things that causes the most problems.

As for power? I noticed a sudden SURGE of power after completing my debaffle!!! (of course, that's the seat of pants perception of power because of the louder rumble in my ears :D ) I've only heard of one person ever complain about a loss of power, but I doubt that it was due to debaffling, otherwise all those manufacturers who sell straight pipes would go out of business. In reality, I get about the same throttle response and same mileage as before, but MUCH more satisfaction while riding...
 

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BlackedOutVulcan,

I started with a dremmel but found a lack of control (see small cut near the bottom of the top pipe). After going through 3 disks, with little progress, I bought a 4 inch sawz blade for cutting metal and used it. I did use the dremmel to clean up the job later. As Sketso stated, be careful around the edges of the pipes. I put duct tape around the edges for protection after I started scraping stuff up. I found that I had better control cutting from the bottom and going up. Attached are pics of the end result. For what it's worth, I went to 8 holes after this, then a full debaffle, which I did not like. Looking back, I should have stayed at 4 holes.

 

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I used a 6" course grit blade, the kind for cutting pipe. I tie wrapped blocks of wood to the pipes to keep the blade from going too deep. It also gave me a straight cut.
 
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