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Discussion Starter #1
hey yall,
Hope all is good.

I 've heard that you can remove the rear nut and shaft to drop the tire w/o removing the exhaust, is that true, what is
needed to do so?

Also, when i mean exhaust, i mean just slightly moving it or completely dropping it. I would figure it would save time/hassle.

Let me know! thanks.
 

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The first time you remove the exhaust for any reason, wheel change, belt alignment, etc.. Using a torque wrench tighten as required. Then notch the castle nut at the 12 oclock position and the axle at the 12 oclock position with a dremel cut off wheel. In the future, you can then use a regular combination wrench to tighten the axle bringing the notches back into alignment for correct torque. Then, no more removing exhaust..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
good convo so far guys, thanks for the quiz du-ron.lol

let me take a swing, if its notched and the cotter pin fails the nut wont come loose past the notch, i guess?
please do tell du-ron.

well, when i put the tire back on and slide the shaft back in, the exhaust side has the nut so i can put an open end wrench to hold still, while torquing wrenching the nut , correct?
 

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good convo so far guys, thanks for the quiz du-ron.lol

let me take a swing, if its notched and the cotter pin fails the nut wont come loose past the notch, i guess?
please do tell du-ron.

well, when i put the tire back on and slide the shaft back in, the exhaust side has the nut so i can put an open end wrench to hold still, while torquing wrenching the nut , correct?
The only reason to take the exhaust off is to get a torque wrench on the nut. If you trust the factory tightness on a brand new bike, notch the axle and the nut now for reference torque in the future so that you dont have to take the exhaust off again. If you have to take the exhaust off for any reason, loosen and properly tighten the nut with a torque wrench and then notch them for future reference. Why notch the axle since you could use the cotter pin hole for proper torque? Because without a notch, you could be 180 degrees off.

Click HERE to watch the video.

If you remove replace your axle nut 20 times you will be within the 4%+/- level due to fastener wear, which is within most torque wrench specs. And...you dont have to take your exhaust off.
 

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The only reason to take the exhaust off is to get a torque wrench on the nut. If you trust the factory tightness on a brand new bike, notch the axle and the nut now for reference torque in the future so that you dont have to take the exhaust off again. If you have to take the exhaust off for any reason, loosen and properly tighten the nut with a torque wrench and then notch them for future reference. Why notch the axle since you could use the cotter pin hole for proper torque? Because without a notch, you could be 180 degrees off.

Click HERE to watch the video.

If you remove replace your axle nut 20 times you will be within the 4%+/- level due to fastener wear, which is within most torque wrench specs. And...you dont have to take your exhaust off.
it surprises me the others didn't understand that, especially with the pic.
 

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I thought I did but was not sure and wanted to see it defined without my interpretation. I appreciated the video to explain the perspective however i have to disagree with it. Personal i do not agree with this practice base on my design experience of hardware design and testing the stretch of bolts with multiple torque sequences the included recording the number of turns of the nut. This test was designed to test a theory of stud fatigue due to continued maintenance and was quite extensive. In practice the torque of the nut on the axle probably has a large range of torque to get the required clamping force since their are other components to keep the shaft from sliding in the slot. This method is probably safe to use however i will not. I would drill a hole in my wrench at a set distance and use my spring scale to torque the nut without removing the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
good stuff guys, but y not just use a leverage bar and tighten that sum'o bitch as tight as possible, u still got the cotter pin in there 2....sometimes i think torqing on big nuts is over rated.
I really wana perform this wo takn exhaust out.....anything else i shld look out for wile removing rear wheel w exhaust on? thanks!
 

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u still got the cotter pin in there 2....sometimes i think torqing on big nuts is over rated.
THIS STATEMENT IS COMPLETELY WRONG AND DANGEROUS THINKING. There are a lot of design factors that go into torque specifications for things like this. Over torquing can cause problems and failures just like under torquing. The only thing a cotter pin is designed for is preventing the rotation of the nut. This is one of the safest ways to insure a nut will not come loose. This is the only item connecting your wheel to the motorcycle frame so their is zero redundancy. Du-Rron recommendation is far superior than what you have suggested.

There are a lot of fastener torque specifications designed to prevent breaking bolts, striping fasteners or tapped holes but this is not one of them. USING THE GOOD AND TIGHT METHOD COULD GET THE RIDER INJURED OR KILLED.

I feel it is necessary to give background for my statement. I have spent ten years designing large industrial equipment which includes calculating and testing fastener and axle torques to overcome the forces being exerted on the hardware or to produce the required tension from the fastener. I have also done lab testing to verify calculations.
 
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