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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks, I started customizing my V2K, and I have a question:
I want to pull back the bars a bit for comfort, and by the looks of it I have to remove the whole triple tree to get at the riser nut/bolt.
Is there a workaround?
I have lots of wrenches, I'll hack 'em if I have to ....lol
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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Hi folks, I started customizing my V2K, and I have a question: I want to pull back the bars a bit for comfort, and by the looks of it I have to remove the whole triple tree to get at the riser nut/bolt. Is there a workaround? I have lots of wrenches, I'll hack 'em if I have to ....lol
tc, yor gonna hafta modify/grind box or open end wrench to get access to those nut heads (12mm?)
Kaw chose to Kopy hardley with 3.5" centers (mos Yaps are 100mm=4"). it put those bolt heads too close to that large steering stem.
If you take the handy bars off first. and then get a wrench on the bottom nut to hold it, you mite should be able to turn the existing riser loose. put the tops back on the riser and use a 1" short pipe or cheater bar in the riser to turn it.. poncho
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanx, Poncho. That worked like a charm. Much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just an FYI, I followed PV's excellent advice to remove the risers. FOr a longer replacement bolt, I used a 3/8 bolt (had to cut some new threads and shorten the 6" bolts I found locally. Then I put a standard 3/8 nylock nut w/ washer.
Any comments or concerns about doing this? With the smaller diameter nut, I can now get a wrench on it for future use........
 

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Think I would rather have the larger diameter bolt in there.

Another option is to use a Allen head bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The bolt dia. diferrence was minimal. 0.385 on the OEM, 0.367 on the new bolt. The head size was the same. For some reason Kaw used a wide headed lock nut OEM, but a standard 3/8 lock nut w/ wshr allows the wrench. I'm experimenting with 2" spacers vs. 3 1/2" pullbacks. Once I'm done tinkering I'll go with a Gr.8 UNF bolt for extra strength.
 

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Oh, ok. I thought they were 12mm bolts.
 

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Bike Of The Year Winner, 2012
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A lot of us, who have switched risers, have actually drilled bigger (wider) bolt holes.

Was scary when I did it.. but was easy.
 

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Hi everyone,

Apparently, movement (loose nut?) in my OEM handlebar risers have wollered out the bolt hole in the triple tree. My intent is to remove the risers and somehow shim the wollered hole so my handlebars won't move that tiny sixteenth of an inch as I'm turning my wheel while walkin' the bike. Squeak drives me nuts and I know the movement is just making it worse. Anybody got any thoughts on how to best shim the hole or solve the issue? I see other's have had trouble removing the bottom riser nut due to being too close to the stem. Can't get a wrench on it. I guess mods to a box wrench is the best fit?

2008 VN2000 Mostly OEM with Cobra Straight Pipes

Reddy Kilowatt
 

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Crows foot wrench, use a step bit to increase size and remove egg shaped hole


Saddle up and feel the wind in your Helmet! ATGATT
 

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Thanks for the response TexasNurse. I hear drilling it out can be done without too much trouble. Guess that's the best route, I'll give it a try.

Thanks, RK
 

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I wasn't planning on it, originally. But then, I wasn't planning on drilling out the hole either. I suspect that if I drill out the hole, the through bolts will be too narrow and create the same issue all over again (or worse). I may just try to wedge something between the existing through bolt and the sidewall of the hole to keep the handlebar torque from shifting the riser bolt in the hole. Or maybe I can get enough tension on the nut to keep the bars from moving. Since I haven't been able to get a wrench on it... I don't know how much torque is on that nut now... I guess it could just be loose (doubtful though).
 
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