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V2k's sold in US vs. Europe differ regarding transfer gears. The stock US transfer gears in the transmission have 42 teeth (front) and 50 teeth (rear). The Euro transfer gears have 44 teeth (front) and 48 teeth (rear). This means 1st gear on US models is not very useful and RPM's in 5th are somewhat too high. Some have bought and installed the Euro transfer gears on their US bikes. The below link (blog with pics) outlines the job step by step:
http://focusontheride.com/?p=1530&page=1

Plz share your experience with this if you've done it. I'd love too if I was smart enough. $$$ is not the issue. Thanks for reading...
 

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I order my euro gear a few weeks ago (wait to recive) and I am impatient to install them before the season start. The instructions seem complete, except probably one gear have normal thread and the other one have reverse thread. Maybe we someone have the answer!
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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a Penny for your thoughts?

here are some pix. some are mine. some are not. have mucho more if needed.

SFAIR pitched in the penny 'tween the gears, so as to lock them- to keep them from rolling while you apply pressure to the gear locknuts. B4 the penny the bike would just rock under the pressure of a 4ft cheater bar. With the penny inserted into adjoining teeth, A 1ft wrench handle did the job like it was butter.

DO THIS: Be sure to cover, close, tape off all openings to the transmission so you dont drop anything (pennies) in those cavities. Otherwise you will be pulling your entire motor out and tearing the cases in half to retrieve your loose change. It will cost you more than just that penny.
 

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Thanks for the penny tricks Poncho Villa, you're the man! In the excitement when the postman deliver my parts, I forgot that I don't have a 36 mm socket. I'm gonna have it only this weekend. All I have to do now it's to open a beer too!
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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Thanks for the penny tricks Poncho Villa, you're the man! In the excitement when the postman deliver my parts, I forgot that I don't have a 36 mm socket. I'm gonna have it only this weekend. All I have to do now it's to open a beer too!
K'bek, thanks sfair for the fix. he came to the rescue, I threw in the towel when that 4ft cheater didn't budge the rear nut. With the bike in gear and wheels chocked, me on full body weight (pushin 200) foot/leg bouncing on the cheater and all the bike would do is rock on me. sheesh. then 2 pennies solution.... btw, I think its a felony to deface gov issue coinage? am wondering if I can beat these things flat and put them back in circulation?

and btw, them thar beers aint much use just opened.. till you drink em. should I post some pix on how to get er done? maybe need to visit and demostrate. yor beers. ponch out.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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Do you absolutely have to remove the tank?
affirmative. you will be draining some coolant when you loose those hose fittings at the water pump. you will need to refill the radiator and the fill cap is under the tank. lousy place to put it. but otherwise it would be ugly exposed at the radiator.

My pick up truck doesnt have a refill cap and uses the expansion tank for a fill device... but it is mounted higher than the entire coolant system, must be how that works.?
 

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affirmative. you will be draining some coolant when you loose those hose fittings at the water pump. you will need to refill the radiator and the fill cap is under the tank. lousy place to put it. but otherwise it would be ugly exposed at the radiator.

My pick up truck doesnt have a refill cap and uses the expansion tank for a fill device... but it is mounted higher than the entire coolant system, must be how that works.?

Got it....muchas gracias
 

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Actualy, you don't have to remove it completely. All I did is remove the bolt behind the gas tank, remove the chromed cap to the left of the tank to unplug the fuel pump wire (total of 3 connections), my father give me a hand, we lift the tank a little bit, just for get acces to the coolant cap. I don't want to diconnect the gas line only for smell of gas in the garage. Last time my girlfriend give me shit because it smell gas everywhere in the house. Behind the coolant cap, you got a little bleeder, just open it and fill coolant until it leak by the bleeder. That's what i did and I put exactly the same quantity of coolant that i removed. So the systeme is suposed to be full. After my first roll test I'm gonna check the level to be sure it's full.
 

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I keep reading about adding a washer to prevent play from one or both....can any of you who has done this elaborate on the washer and or where it would go? i want it done correct and I hate the clunk
 

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Thanks ponch. I guess if they wanted it tight they would have completed during r&d.


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
 
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