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How soon should I guy wait to install some debaffled exhaust on a new bike. Should I complete the break in period?
 

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I did mine 2 days after bringing it home from the stealer, about 60 miles on the odo. The debaffle doesn't effect anything that would be covered under warranty...and I was prepared to do battle if they said otherwise.
 

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It's common for dealers to put em on at the shop, won't hurt a thing. Now, if you have a high flow intake AND the debaffled pipes a fuel processor should be purchased and tuned but that's just for that.

Heck, I'm thinkin about cutting the front muffler cap out and seeing if it flows better. I have the OEM pipes that I've gutted to the front muffler cap, so there's still a 1 inchish hole up there behind the Catalytics. Thanks to that I believe my Bully processor is set to stock ECU settings and everything is fine. If I had open exhaust I'd need to bump the settings up to keep the mixture properly rich.
 

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Well Poopers! I had to buy water softner salt today so I strolled by tool isle and picked up a hole saw and extension. Got home, did the deed with all the other stuff and set down to drill me a couple exhausts. After about 15 seconds of drilling I stopped to see what kind of dent I was making on the can. Well, it looked like I had shot peened the front end. Looked at the hole saw and all the teeth were worn off! Geeze, I THOUGHT it said it was bi-metal. But it's looking like this was a wood only saw. Worse, it seems the jittering has locked up the extension. I can't get it apart.

Well, guess I'll work on that another day. I DID notice that my left hand turn lights are flashing fast. This can't be good I thought, and I as right. Bout a year and a half ago, for some reason, probably an incorrectly installed seal, my left-rear turn signal was full of water and corroded. I worked it over and cleaned it, saoked it with baking soda water, cleaned THAT mess off and put it back together. No luck though. It's rotten in there and the only thing making my turn signals visible from behind is the Electrical connections LED's which do flash. So at least thats working while I order in a full new stem to replace this corroded one with. Heck, the stinking O-ring for some reason or another has expanded, I couldn't get it back in the hole without cutting 1/4 inch out of it. I'll have the parts in a week.

Just goes to show ya, it's always sumptin.
 

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I tried a cheap bi-metal saw and it croaked within seconds. I bit the bullet and bought a DeWalt. The DW eventually made it through both pipes but is now toast. I also went though 2 extensions (when the saw bit it would round out the inside) - it shouldn't be that hard to make a decent extension....especially at $20 each!!
 

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Make sure you guys are using the slow setting when drilling out the baffles. If put your drill on high speed the saw will just over heat and dull right away. Cutting at lower RPM's with some pressure is the best way to cut metal.
I bought the $12.99 hole saw from Fleet Farm and de-baffled my exhaust and the saw is still sharp enough to do probably 3 more sets!
 

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Heck no, I ran it as fast as I could in reverse...

Actually, I had it in my big drill that with the adjustable speed turned down pretty good. Flat out it's not too fast but here it's pretty dullifying. A little motoroil for lube. I don't know, maybe I pushed to hard and didn't let the bit do the work. I took the front of the muffler cans off with a saw, actually made a debaffle kit. It made it too about 3 folks before it suddenly dis-appeared. But at least 3 other folks out there were honest and made use of it before that last guy.
 
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