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Hey, has anyone adapted electrical connections to incorporate a kill-switch? I like to keep trickle charge in-between rides. Problem is, while I like tinkering around with wenches, most times I really do not want to remove the seat every frik-en time I just want to attach the charger. I setup a quick-fix with direct connections at the battery using a-couple of washers with soldered stranded wire, then used the YAUSA Smartshot connecter on the other end and tucked it into the tool box. Pretty neat, just unlock the side cover then plug-er up. Now, I really want to get those washer connections off the battery terminals. And, was thinking about getting a dual-pole dual-throw switch and just put-er inline. One “on” position would be just letting the current flow normally, and the 2nd “on” position would effectively kill everything, including whatever the hell draws current when the bike’s not being ridden (seems it would screw with a thief who tries to hot-wire the bike [haha, I just remember in the old days how easy it was to start a Honda 125 using a straight pin]), but more importantly having the YAUSA connection on the second position of the switch to implement trickle charge when not being ridden.
Jeeez . . . Poncho, I’ been in some tight spots and have thought of selling the beast, but she’s always managed to convince me not too. Lol BTW, if those EuroGears start collecting dust let me know!!!
 

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I added the battery maintainer connector to the normal batteries. Allows direct connection when needed, also give connector for accessories if needed.

On Belle, I replaced the battery with a lithium-iron from Shorai. Make sure you connect it right orbit will start a fire. Weighs maybe two pounds, gives more cranking power and better reserve. Requires a special maintainer though.

Still have the other connector so I can connect to a second bike to charge their battery if needed. IT IS NOT FOR JUMP STARTING, only for charging!!!
 

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I'm confused. Why don't you buy a Battery Tender and use the ring terminals to make a semi-permanent connection, then have the plug lead out to the outside, under the seat? You shouldn't ever need to even look at your seat to plug it in
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah hawk, I got a chance to handle one of those and it was sure light, and $$$. How much did you pay for the lithium?
I see how your battery has threaded terminals. That would work better than the stock setup. I can barely get the bolts threaded when the rings are added.

Still like the idea of a switch to kill the electrical current. There is something about getting in the saddle only to find nothing happens when you hit the starter button. Mood changes instantly, especially if you out in the boonies! :(
 

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After putting a stereo system and parking lot led's on my ride I found out that not installing off switches was a bad idea. The boondocks situation occured! I mounted two toggle switches on the bottom of the left side cowl panel that u can't see if u don't know what your looking for. I put one switch for each accessory. There should be enough room for a three way switch in the same spot.
 

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Maybe rather than installing some sort of switch it would be a good idea to find the source of the drain and fix that.

FWIW, normally over winter storage I disconnect the negative battery cable as a precaution but a few times I didn't get around to doing that. It still started just fine come spring despite no maintainer and being connected.
 

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After putting a stereo system and parking lot led's on my ride I found out that not installing off switches was a bad idea. The boondocks situation occured! I mounted two toggle switches on the bottom of the left side cowl panel that u can't see if u don't know what your looking for. I put one switch for each accessory. There should be enough room for a three way switch in the same spot.
I did the exact same thing.

My stereo is on one switch, and my LEDs are on another.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I did the exact same thing.

My stereo is on one switch, and my LEDs are on another.
Yeah, this sound likes a plan! Thanks Everyone!

I had read in one of the threads a original battery lasting 13yrs.
As far as the power drain, I understand there is a draw while the bike is parked. (keeping the meter info?) I never thought about trying measure it. The bike's a 2004, that I bought new from dealer and I have replaced the battery 3 times and has some 34k miles on it..
 

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If your bike did not come with a power port (cigarette lighter) style, many people have installed these for accessories. If it is unswitched, directly fuse connected to the battery, you can take your trickle charger wires and connect them to a male plug that will fit the port and charge thru it. Word of caution, make sure you connect the positive + wire to the center connector.
 

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Yeah, this sound likes a plan! Thanks Everyone!

I had read in one of the threads a original battery lasting 13yrs.
As far as the power drain, I understand there is a draw while the bike is parked. (keeping the meter info?) I never thought about trying measure it. The bike's a 2004, that I bought new from dealer and I have replaced the battery 3 times and has some 34k miles on it..
Just about everything these days has some parasitic draw even when "off". However, it shouldn't be so much as to drain your battery in some days or even some weeks. As I mentioned, my has sat over winter 4-5 months with the battery connected and no maintainer, and started up.

What are you talking here, in terms of time until the battery is dead/won't start the bike?

If you haven't, you should check the electrical connections on the voltage regulator(s). They're prone to corrosion and perhaps that's at least some of the problem.
 
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