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Discussion Starter #1
I have an '06 classic I bought this Fall and had a Memphis Fats quick release windshield installed. Love the quick release feature. I ordered a set of Phat Risers (the regular ones--Phats 1, I think they're called) and put them on today. All was good when I was done, but then I discovered that when the bars are turned all the way to the stop, either direction, the throttle cable gets bound tight. NOT GOOD! I looked at it and determined that the windshield mounting bracket for the quick release mount has the cable pulled pretty far forward before curving back to go under the tank. Any suggestions as to how to get around this--simply, if possible. It almost appears that I need to move the cables behind the upper triple tree, but that will, no doubt require a trip to my dealer where I bought it, as I don't have the tools required, nor the know-how. So I am looking for suggestions, guidance, wisdom, etc. Thanx in advance.
 

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Go to the scootworks website, use the install instructions for the Phat 2's (they are the next taller risers). It details exactly what you need to do to move the cable under the upper tree - pictures and all.
It's basically remove the bars, remove the center nut, loosen the clamp screws, tap the tree up slide the cable around the right end, and tighten the clamps. Put the bike up on a jack or blocks so the front is supported. As long as you dont loosen the bottom clamps your alignment should stay true. it's about as easy as changing the risers in the first place. If you have the toolkit, you have all you need.
 

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whoa hold on .
I installed the Phat Riser II's and you don't have to do the triple tree removal to make it work. Just take off the throttle control cover and disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle grip. then re route behind the triple tree and re connect. It's very easy and not as overwhelming as taking the triple tree loose. And you won't have to pay the dealer 150 an hour to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
whoa hold on .
I installed the Phat Riser II's and you don't have to do the triple tree removal to make it work. Just take off the throttle control cover and disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle grip. then re route behind the triple tree and re connect. It's very easy and not as overwhelming as taking the triple tree loose. And you won't have to pay the dealer 150 an hour to do it.
Hmm, that sounds do-able. Thanx for that suggestion.
 

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Easier method to relocate cables behind the triple tree. Drop the headlight then take the cables/handles off the bar. Pass trough the headlight opening and reattach. Bolt the headlamp back in.

Make sure to use towels on your tank and fender to avoid dents and scratches.

I use small Velcro ties to keep the cables together after relocating.
 

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taking off the top triple tree isn't a difficult or complicated procedure but yea the easiest solution is to reroute the cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
whoa hold on .
I installed the Phat Riser II's and you don't have to do the triple tree removal to make it work. Just take off the throttle control cover and disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle grip. then re route behind the triple tree and re connect. It's very easy and not as overwhelming as taking the triple tree loose. And you won't have to pay the dealer 150 an hour to do it.

I tried to do that today, but couldn't get enough slack in the throttle cables to remove them for relocation. Don't know why. I screwed the adjusters all the way in, but no go. Guess it's off to the dealer to have him do it Tuesday when they open back up for the week. Sigh.
 

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Nomad, take the bars back out of the risers, lay them down between the tree and the tank. There will be plenty of cable to get it out of the grip.
It is still a LOT less work to take the nut off, loosen the clamps and tap tap the tree pops up (probably can pull it up with the bars in fact. Its not like the bike is gonna fall over, or anything will twist - the tubes are clamped in the lower tree. Putting the risers on in the first place was more work than moving the cables. More dangerous too - you were working with tools over top of the tank. That's always my fear, slipping a wrench and hitting the tank:eek:. I always cover it with towels, than a nice heavy blanket.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Nomad, take the bars back out of the risers, lay them down between the tree and the tank. There will be plenty of cable to get it out of the grip.
It is still a LOT less work to take the nut off, loosen the clamps and tap tap the tree pops up (probably can pull it up with the bars in fact. Its not like the bike is gonna fall over, or anything will twist - the tubes are clamped in the lower tree. Putting the risers on in the first place was more work than moving the cables. More dangerous too - you were working with tools over top of the tank. That's always my fear, slipping a wrench and hitting the tank:eek:. I always cover it with towels, than a nice heavy blanket.

Thanx for that tip. I'll give it a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yesterday I bit the bullet and moved the throttle cables inside the upper triple clamp by removing the headlight and headlight shell. It took me a minute to realize that you have to remove the light from the housing to remove the housing itself. After that it was a piece of cake. A whole lot easier than removing the upper triple clamp! No stress on the cables anymore at full handlebar deflection. Thanks, Bluecruiser.
 

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After looking at all the suggestions, I'm glad I had the dealer do it for my Phatriser II's!!!! Lol!!!!
 

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Glad I could help. The great thing about these forums is that we can learn some tricks from others. I found the headlight removal trick from an older post. Saved a lot of time and grief.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Today the weather cooperated, so this afternoon when it warmed up a bit, I took the bike out for a test ride to see if I got the handlebars in the right position. Turned out I got it perfect the first time. Then things looked "funny." Looking down at the bars while riding (yeah, I know, keep your eyes on the road, dummy) it looked like the bars were askew, giving the impression that I was trying to turn right. Went home, took the bars off, loosened up the risers and made sure they were properly centered, put the bars back on and it was the same thing. Scratched head, then decided a short ride to the dealer where I got it was in order. They took me right in and checked it out while milled around looking at bikes and accessories. About 20 minutes later the guy came out and told me that I hadn't properly tightened the nuts that hold the risers in place, and when I moved the bars to the stops, it caused everything to shift. They centered the bars and took a torque wrench to the nuts (not mine--the ones that hold the risers in place) and got them properly tightened. Told me to take it for a ride to check it out. All was as it should have been and I went home. NO CHARGE for the service. Snake River Yamaha in Meridian, ID. No affiliation, just a satisfied customer. Anyway, I'm back in service, pointing in the right direction.

To all of you who offered suggestion, thanks a bunch. I appreciate it.
 

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Had to reroute all my cables on my 2010 Vulcan Classic LT. Removing the headlight body allowed me to route everything through this opening. The only thing I discovered was when I disconnected everything from the handlebars, although I didn't disconnect the front brake line, I left the front master cyclinder handing down on the side of the bike, while I rerouted the other lines.

After I finished rerouting everything and installed every back on the bars, I discovered the front brake is barely working. I guess leaving it hanging allowed the air to become compressed!

Now I have to figure out how to bleed the line. Still better than messing with the triple tree! Thanks for suggesting the removal of the headlight body.

Anybody know what size tube I need to use to attach to the bleed valve?
 

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Throttle

whoa hold on .
I installed the Phat Riser II's and you don't have to do the triple tree removal to make it work. Just take off the throttle control cover and disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle grip. then re route behind the triple tree and re connect. It's very easy and not as overwhelming as taking the triple tree loose. And you won't have to pay the dealer 150 an hour to do it.
This works guys. I did it. No issues. Just watch how the throttle comes apart so you can put it back together correctly.
 
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