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Discussion Starter #1
S Fair I don't know if I am allowed to ask for specific member help or if there is protocol so forgive me. Let me know if there is I will use the proper chain of command then.

I have read so many posts where you have given detailed info and helped people with their rides. I am really struggling here... I have posted several times.

I have a 2001 Vulcan Classic 1500 FI that I love, I rode rockets up until last year and I should have made the switch so much sooner (I'm 54)

It ran perfect last year and now its killing me...

Can you help? I'm sending out an SOS before I get into detail again...

It's that or the honorable harakiri... I kid...
 

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It's a holiday week. SFair and others with more knowledge may not be checking in for a few days.

In the meantime, you say you put in a new battery since this started, but it didn't help. Probably not the battery, but even new batteries can be bad. You could get good voltage readings from the switch, etc., but the battery can't supply enough Volts/Amps when cranking. You should charge it up, then get it load tested, and double check the battery connections. While waiting for other replies from more knowledgeable folks, you might check the bike down sensor. It would allow the starter to turn the engine, but would not allow power to the coils.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
A digital voltage meter yes and yes. Guys I have tested and tested i have three new batteries sitting here disassembled my ignition, checked coils etc. The only thing that I have found off is when I connect the battery the ISC valves click and with key off the bottom half continues to climb to 120+ degrees I found this by accident when my arm hit it. I tore all of it out. Disassembled all the wiring found no burnt wires and when it was assembled I couldn't find any crazy high heat signatures...

Is there something I'm missing right in front of me?

Also is there supposed to be one wire at the ignition that has 12+ volts key off?
 

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Yes, the white wire at the ignition switch should always have 12vdc on it. You will also see a gray wire coming from the switch. Place the negative probe of your meter on the battery negative terminal, turn ignition on, and check the voltage on the gray wire. This can be done at the switch connector plug or the plug at the igniter. You should see ~ 6 volts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I rechecked and white wire has 12.37 volts and there is 6 at the other... guys im losing my mind here...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I feel like the issue is maybe towards the ISC valves being on all the time? What does that indicate? A grounded wire?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I think i tested the computer properly but maybe not could someone walk me thru the process? I really want to get out on this bike...
 

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Just ran a flow test on my fuel pump all is A OK... I just dont know where to turn ugh....
I believe you stated in another thread that this bike is FI. Have you done a pressure check on the fuel pump? It can appear to have good flow, but can't supply the needed pressure. Until you check the pressure, or find something else that is causing your problem, you can't rule out the pump.

Did you check the tip over (bike down) sensor as I suggested?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I believe you stated in another thread that this bike is FI. Have you done a pressure check on the fuel pump? It can appear to have good flow, but can't supply the needed pressure. Until you check the pressure, or find something else that is causing your problem, you can't rule out the pump.

Did you check the tip over (bike down) sensor as I suggested?
I did the test on the tip over valve per the service manual it checked out good. Can I hook a pressure gauge up to my hose I have hooked up now? What type of pressure should I have? Also if I have low pressure would that cause no prime no spark?
 

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You seem to have two issues that need to be resolved. I would start with the no spark first. Do you have a spark tester if so that is the best way to test.
 

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I did the test on the tip over valve per the service manual it checked out good. Can I hook a pressure gauge up to my hose I have hooked up now? What type of pressure should I have? Also if I have low pressure would that cause no prime no spark?
Ok, you have eliminated the tip over sensor.

I've never tested fuel pump pressure, I just know that it needs to be tested to rule out the fuel pump being your problem. You say you have a service manual, so that's where you should look for how to test it and what specs it should meet. I was just commenting that the way you tested it does not show that it is working properly.

Like Bandid101 said, you can check to see if you are even getting a spark with a spark tester. It could be sparking, but not firing. If you are, then it may be fuel related. If not, you may have an electrical issue.
 
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Starting at the beginning as I do not know the history, When you turn the switch on and press the start button does the engine spin over?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
OK sorry I had to step away from this as I was just to spun up on it and after almost a month I needed a break so I'm back! Fresh mind LOL. OK yes when I hit the start button spins over the neutral button lights up but thats it no FI light or anything bad... Jumped 37 and no codes... Today I am removing the ISC valves and installing a "Woody" air filter.

So what I have found to be bad

1. The battery was bad and popped the DFI and IGN fuses

2. I replaced the battery and the fuses are now intact,

3. It still has no spark and no fuel pump prime

4. I found that the ISC valves powered on as soon as I connected the battery even key off and the bottom half of the ISC valves would reach over a 120 degress.

5. As I said I am removing ISC valves and installing Woody air filter system


for tests I have run: (please have me run any over that I may have run incorrectly)

1. I tested fuel pump it does work and I tested pressure and it is within standards

2. tested battery it is within voltage at rest and as power is put to it.

3. tested injectors for voltage in and out

4. tested coils for voltage in and out

5. completely disconnected the power commander 3 I installed (it was NOS)

6. Completely disconnected the LED lights I had installed over the winter

7. Completely disassembled and cleaned and tested the ignition switch

8. Tested the tip over switch

9. Tested all the relays

10. Tested all the pins all ECU

11. Redid all my ground wires cleaned and re positioned

12. Had an oil pressure gauge on the bike took it off put the original switch back in and wiring

So I cant see what I am missing... But it started all winter and I ran it foe 30 minutes took it off the work stand rolled it outside and viola' no pump prime no spark...

I have tested continuity. unwrapped all the looms... I have to be missing something...
 
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