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Looking at the wiring chart, the Blue/White accessory wire is hot (BL/W) and the Black/Yellow accessory wire is ground (BK/Y). When the BL/W wire passes through the fuse (labeled #1) it is now the White (W) wire. The W wire ends up at your ignition switch and is switched.

Correct me if I am wrong...It's small print on the schematic.
Salute!
I just reviewed what you saw in the wiring diagram, traced it back & I agree with you, definitely a switched hot wire...Can be used to trip a relay that activates an accessories aux terminal block!
 

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Great post. Just one question, you seem very knowledgeable in motorcycle electrics, why do you categorically refuse to splice into other switched sources?
Thanks
 

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Great post. Just one question, you seem very knowledgeable in motorcycle electrics, why do you categorically refuse to splice into other switched sources?
Thanks
If I may, a switch is rated for so many amps. Adding accessories can exceed the switch's amp carrying ability. Also, by tapping into a circuit with a relay that goes directly to a bike's electronics module can damage the module when the relay closes with reverse voltage spikes.
 

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If I may, a switch is rated for so many amps. Adding accessories can exceed the switch's amp carrying ability. Also, by tapping into a circuit with a relay that goes directly to a bike's electronics module can damage the module when the relay closes with reverse voltage spikes.
Thanks, I guess complexity is the price we pay for modern performance.
 

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kawasaki only sells the parts in packs of 50 for the connectors, and same with some of the other parts. i'm actually playing with the idea of making the plugs to sell on ebay. let me know if you would be interested in buying one if i did start making them.
I would like one for my 2005 1500 classic ?
 

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I was trying to figure the best way to power up and power off all my accessories with the ignition switch and it works great! I will explain as best I can with PHOTOS. I just finished my install on my '18 Classic LT using a 40 Amp 4-pin relay and a fuse box to power all my accessories. I thought of fabricating a bracket from aluminum flat stock I had laying around but to eliminate any accidental contact with battery posts I came up with a much better idea using the existing but useless (until now) under seat tool box. I cut it up to use as a platform for my relay, fuse box and amplifier. Now, the alternator on these bikes are rated at 32 Amps/14 volts Maximum so I could have wired up a 30 Amp relay which I didn't have, so I used a 40 Amp relay with a 30 Amp Inline fuse between the battery and relay so in the event that the total amperage exceeds 30 Amps the fuse will blow rather than fry my alternator. I used all 10 AWG or #6 wire from +battery to relay, from +relay to +fuse box, and all grounds. The only wire that's 14 AWG is the relay switched wire which is connected to the RED tail light wire in the rear harness via a Posi-Tap connector (See closeup photo) Bumper Bumper Auto part Electrical wiring Engine Wire Technology Electronics Electrical wiring Wire Electronic component Technology Wire Auto part Cable Technology Vehicle Electronics Wire Technology Electrical wiring Electronic device Electronics Wire Technology Electronic device Electrical wiring I used all heat shrink crimp connectors along with dielectric grease at all points for anti-corrosion reasons. When key is off fuse panel is dead. When key is on fuse box is live along with any circuits connected to it. The relay is only acting as a switch via the low amperage tail light circuit to turn on/off the fuse box. The relay is what's taking the load, not the tail light circuit. In addition, each individual accessory circuit has it's own fuse, sized accordingly to how much amperage it's pulling. For me this was the best and safest way to have the whole bike turned off via the ignition switch. Hope this helps some of you!
 

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i'll let you know when i get the first batch made. i have to order the parts in bulk 50 at a time, and then i'll start making them. shouldn't take to long before i have the first few out.



correct, you could just cut wires and install whatever plugs you can find, but the idea of this writeup was NOT to cut any factory wires. you are right, the connectors aren't that easy to get, but i'm buying all the parts i need in bulk, so i'll be able to start selling the plugs in the near future for very cheap.



it is fairly close, but clears the terminals just fine. if the ground terminal touches it, it wouldn't matter. it's only the positive terminal you have to worry about, and it is capped off so it doesn't touch the metal hold down. it's also just a "quick prototype". down the road i might reshape the hold down to clear the terminals more, or even use a different material.
Hi, did you ever make the connectors that connect to the diagnostic connector on a VN900? I know that this is a very old post but if available, I would buy your connector. Thanks, Jon Smith.
[email protected]
 

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kawasaki only sells the parts in packs of 50 for the connectors, and same with some of the other parts. i'm actually playing with the idea of making the plugs to sell on ebay. let me know if you would be interested in buying one if i did start making them.
i would take One if your making them !
 

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In case anyone wants to connect to the harness under the seat (the one that goes to the rear turn signal and brake lights) I ordered the following connectors from Corsa Technic, including the connector that can be used to pick the wire from the diagnostic port. It cost only a few dollars.

Hopefully it helps and you don't have to splice any wires or use any Posi-tap connectors.

6-Way Kit (MTW-6S) (2G) - "Hitachi" MTW type
$1.37
Select Color: Natural (as pictured)
Socket/Wire size: .3-.5 mm² | 22-20 AWG (MTW-SKT1)

6-Way Kit (MTW-6P) (2G) - "Hitachi" MTW type
$1.37
Select color: Natural (pictured)
Pin/Wire size: .3-.85 mm² | 22-18 AWG (MTW-PIN1)

4-Way Kit (HM-4P) (4B) - HM Sealed Series
$3.17
Select color: Natural (pictured)
Pin/Wire size: .3-1.25 mm² | 22-16 AWG (SUMI.A-PIN1)
Insulation/Seal size: 1.3-1.7 mm | .051-.067 in (SUMI-SL1)

MT HM TS Series Plug (P6) (SUMI-PG2) (SEAL) - MT Sealed Series
Quantity: 4
$0.12/each, $0.48 total

Sub Total:$6.39
Shipping Method: USPS First Class Mail PackageShipping:$ 5.05
Total:$11.44

Connectors for the rear light harness:
246337


What I built to get access to the red wire in the rear light harness:
246338


Connector for the diagnostic port:
246339
 

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Thanks for posting all this great information. Very helpful especially with all the pictures. Will definitely help other members in the future. Be well.
 

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Welcome to the forum from North Carolina. If you have an 800 then it says these cables will fit. Closeout makes it a good price. This Kit does not show up on the Baron website, so they must be discontinued for the 800. You will need an extended brake line. Here are some websites to research. Thanks again for becoming a member of the forum. Glad you are with us. Be well and Ride Safely.




 

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So, I ended up doing this project and figured that I would share my work. I used the tool box area for the fuse block and relay. And I mounted a negative bus in front of the tool box.

Even though I hated to use a T tap, I tapped into the positive wire going to the license plate light. Someone posted earlier on this thread that the accessory plug goes directly to the ECU. I guess I just didn't want to risk it.

Here are some un-annotated pics for a clear picture of what it looks like.

246717


246718


246719


And here are a couple of marked up images with labels

246720


246721


I hooked up my first accessory - a USB charging port (double) for my phone and Gopro. It switches on with the key perfectly.
 

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I was trying to figure the best way to power up and power off all my accessories with the ignition switch and it works great! I will explain as best I can with PHOTOS. I just finished my install on my '18 Classic LT using a 40 Amp 4-pin relay and a fuse box to power all my accessories. I thought of fabricating a bracket from aluminum flat stock I had laying around but to eliminate any accidental contact with battery posts I came up with a much better idea using the existing but useless (until now) under seat tool box. I cut it up to use as a platform for my relay, fuse box and amplifier. Now, the alternator on these bikes are rated at 32 Amps/14 volts Maximum so I could have wired up a 30 Amp relay which I didn't have, so I used a 40 Amp relay with a 30 Amp Inline fuse between the battery and relay so in the event that the total amperage exceeds 30 Amps the fuse will blow rather than fry my alternator. I used all 10 AWG or #6 wire from +battery to relay, from +relay to +fuse box, and all grounds. The only wire that's 14 AWG is the relay switched wire which is connected to the RED tail light wire in the rear harness via a Posi-Tap connector (See closeup photo) View attachment 241090 View attachment 241091 View attachment 241092 View attachment 241093 View attachment 241094 View attachment 241095 View attachment 241096 I used all heat shrink crimp connectors along with dielectric grease at all points for anti-corrosion reasons. When key is off fuse panel is dead. When key is on fuse box is live along with any circuits connected to it. The relay is only acting as a switch via the low amperage tail light circuit to turn on/off the fuse box. The relay is what's taking the load, not the tail light circuit. In addition, each individual accessory circuit has it's own fuse, sized accordingly to how much amperage it's pulling. For me this was the best and safest way to have the whole bike turned off via the ignition switch. Hope this helps some of you!

Thank you for the pictures. I am wiring my 2020 Vulcan Classic this weekend. I am going to follow your direction. I have heated gear which will be wired directly to the battery. I have a relay and a fuse box which will have the GPS and CB wired. I plan on using the tool box because I carry a much better tool kit in my saddle bag.
 

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FuzeBlocks works great. Each connector is individually fused and can be set individually for switched or always-on. Fits easily into tool box.

249413
 

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Man I wish my under the seat looked that clean. But then again mine is 10 years older
 

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I unplugged the the end with the yellow wire coming out and tested the 4 pins coming from the harness. they are ALL COLD with the key OFF. with the key ON this is what they show (PS: according to the factory service manual, that is the diagnostic connector, and I also found that that is where aftermarket add-ons such as a gear indicator would plug in. I am NOT damaging or removing the ability to use it as a diagnostic connector. I'm merely replacing the plug with a new FACTORY plug to use the ignition switched source, and I can also make a plug that retains BOTH the factory diagnostic lead, AND the ignition switched source)



1
I build another plug matching the factory plug, but with the electrical connector in the location of the switched 12volt wire instead of the ground connector which is where the original factory plug has it's lead coming out of.
Just like the factory plug, I used a female bullet connector on the end of the wire, to make the best waterproof connection possible.


New connector plugged in with key OFF


New connector plugged in with key ON
Well there you have it. FACTORY ignition SWITCHED 12volt. Use that to as a signal wire to activate a relay connected to a fuse block, and you can wire in all the accessories you want and it will all shut down when you turn off the key.

I'll continue this writeup showing what I did.

6-port fuse block from auto parts store


Automotive 4-pin relay (i used 40amp) from auto parts store


I then removed the plastic battery cover/tool tray (hate that thing anyways), and used a piece of flat steel to build a battery hold down/fuse block mount. I then used the 2 screws that hold the plastic tray in place to mount the flat steel. I marked and drilled the mounting screw locations for the fuse block, and bolted the relay to the front of the fuse block. you can see the relay between the fuse block and the gas tank.


Here is the new plug with the female end bullet connector, and a wire with a weatherproof male end bullet connector that goes to the signal pin of the relay.


Here is my finished product. battery hold down with relay and fuseblock all wired up.



Here is a video showing how with the bike off, the switch for the heated grips does NOT power on. But with the bike on, I can turn the heated grips on. And then when I turn the power to the bike off, the heated grips shut off also.


hello my friend mr grant here i have a similar issue im trying to install type r train horns to my vulcan 900d lt the problem isnt in the keyed power that is supplied directly from the horn circuit the problem lies in the relay it is a farbin 80 amp no matter how many wireing schematics i download these horns refuse to sound i even tried to replicate everything infront if my computer with my bikes battery and a separate switch still no reaction obviously any help would grealy be welcome thanks
 
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