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Looking at the wiring chart, the Blue/White accessory wire is hot (BL/W) and the Black/Yellow accessory wire is ground (BK/Y). When the BL/W wire passes through the fuse (labeled #1) it is now the White (W) wire. The W wire ends up at your ignition switch and is switched.

Correct me if I am wrong...It's small print on the schematic.
Salute!
I just reviewed what you saw in the wiring diagram, traced it back & I agree with you, definitely a switched hot wire...Can be used to trip a relay that activates an accessories aux terminal block!
 

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Great post. Just one question, you seem very knowledgeable in motorcycle electrics, why do you categorically refuse to splice into other switched sources?
Thanks
 

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Great post. Just one question, you seem very knowledgeable in motorcycle electrics, why do you categorically refuse to splice into other switched sources?
Thanks
If I may, a switch is rated for so many amps. Adding accessories can exceed the switch's amp carrying ability. Also, by tapping into a circuit with a relay that goes directly to a bike's electronics module can damage the module when the relay closes with reverse voltage spikes.
 

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If I may, a switch is rated for so many amps. Adding accessories can exceed the switch's amp carrying ability. Also, by tapping into a circuit with a relay that goes directly to a bike's electronics module can damage the module when the relay closes with reverse voltage spikes.
Thanks, I guess complexity is the price we pay for modern performance.
 

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kawasaki only sells the parts in packs of 50 for the connectors, and same with some of the other parts. i'm actually playing with the idea of making the plugs to sell on ebay. let me know if you would be interested in buying one if i did start making them.
I would like one for my 2005 1500 classic ?
 

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I was trying to figure the best way to power up and power off all my accessories with the ignition switch and it works great! I will explain as best I can with PHOTOS. I just finished my install on my '18 Classic LT using a 40 Amp 4-pin relay and a fuse box to power all my accessories. I thought of fabricating a bracket from aluminum flat stock I had laying around but to eliminate any accidental contact with battery posts I came up with a much better idea using the existing but useless (until now) under seat tool box. I cut it up to use as a platform for my relay, fuse box and amplifier. Now, the alternator on these bikes are rated at 32 Amps/14 volts Maximum so I could have wired up a 30 Amp relay which I didn't have, so I used a 40 Amp relay with a 30 Amp Inline fuse between the battery and relay so in the event that the total amperage exceeds 30 Amps the fuse will blow rather than fry my alternator. I used all 10 AWG or #6 wire from +battery to relay, from +relay to +fuse box, and all grounds. The only wire that's 14 AWG is the relay switched wire which is connected to the RED tail light wire in the rear harness via a Posi-Tap connector (See closeup photo) 20200225_095504.jpg 20200225_095524.jpg 20200301_082111.jpg 20200303_151732.jpg 20200301_222638.jpg 20200303_161813.jpg 20200303_161805.jpg I used all heat shrink crimp connectors along with dielectric grease at all points for anti-corrosion reasons. When key is off fuse panel is dead. When key is on fuse box is live along with any circuits connected to it. The relay is only acting as a switch via the low amperage tail light circuit to turn on/off the fuse box. The relay is what's taking the load, not the tail light circuit. In addition, each individual accessory circuit has it's own fuse, sized accordingly to how much amperage it's pulling. For me this was the best and safest way to have the whole bike turned off via the ignition switch. Hope this helps some of you!
 

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i'll let you know when i get the first batch made. i have to order the parts in bulk 50 at a time, and then i'll start making them. shouldn't take to long before i have the first few out.



correct, you could just cut wires and install whatever plugs you can find, but the idea of this writeup was NOT to cut any factory wires. you are right, the connectors aren't that easy to get, but i'm buying all the parts i need in bulk, so i'll be able to start selling the plugs in the near future for very cheap.



it is fairly close, but clears the terminals just fine. if the ground terminal touches it, it wouldn't matter. it's only the positive terminal you have to worry about, and it is capped off so it doesn't touch the metal hold down. it's also just a "quick prototype". down the road i might reshape the hold down to clear the terminals more, or even use a different material.
Hi, did you ever make the connectors that connect to the diagnostic connector on a VN900? I know that this is a very old post but if available, I would buy your connector. Thanks, Jon Smith.
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kawasaki only sells the parts in packs of 50 for the connectors, and same with some of the other parts. i'm actually playing with the idea of making the plugs to sell on ebay. let me know if you would be interested in buying one if i did start making them.
i would take One if your making them !
 
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