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Discussion starter · #21 ·
wish i had one of those plugs.....i am going to be hooking up the stereo in my batwing this weekend and could sure use a keyed power source
you could do what we did with my wifes accessories as a temporary thing until i could come up with this. we just wired everything to the battery with a cutoff switch. that way we didn't have to cut any wiring. the only problem is that if you don't remember to turn everything off, you might come out to a dead battery.


i'm thinking about actually making these plugs and selling them fairly cheap, just not sure if there would be enough interest/market to make the initial investment.
 
you can get your own male + female plug from any auto parts store and build your own... only thing is you will have to do some soldering and shrink wrapping to make it look nice and clean. that's what i eventually did with my lizard lights because initially i just used one of those piggy-back connectors... i didn't like the looks of it when you saw all the wiring under the seat?!!? so i fixed it!

nice place to tap off though... too bad the connectors aren't easy to get. salvage yards maybe??
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Sell em through Ebay or at least paypal and I'll buy one!!
i'll let you know when i get the first batch made. i have to order the parts in bulk 50 at a time, and then i'll start making them. shouldn't take to long before i have the first few out.


you can get your own male + female plug from any auto parts store and build your own... only thing is you will have to do some soldering and shrink wrapping to make it look nice and clean. that's what i eventually did with my lizard lights because initially i just used one of those piggy-back connectors... i didn't like the looks of it when you saw all the wiring under the seat?!!? so i fixed it!

nice place to tap off though... too bad the connectors aren't easy to get. salvage yards maybe??
correct, you could just cut wires and install whatever plugs you can find, but the idea of this writeup was NOT to cut any factory wires. you are right, the connectors aren't that easy to get, but i'm buying all the parts i need in bulk, so i'll be able to start selling the plugs in the near future for very cheap.

that hold down is not too close to the battery terminals?
it is fairly close, but clears the terminals just fine. if the ground terminal touches it, it wouldn't matter. it's only the positive terminal you have to worry about, and it is capped off so it doesn't touch the metal hold down. it's also just a "quick prototype". down the road i might reshape the hold down to clear the terminals more, or even use a different material.
 
Just an FYI... I added a Shark 250W amp and speakers to my 2009 Vulcan 900 and would have liked a bit more detail, so here goes...
I too found that the accessory ports in the headlight and under seat are always hot. I did not want that, I wanted to connect to a switched circuit. So, I used a 12v 4 connector auto relay (194 from napa for $8). I hooked up the trigger from my horn to the relay on port 85 and the ground to port 86 (These numbers are on the relay). I spliced in the trigger to the horn wire which is switched like I want it and the relay draws next to nothing anyway, so I wasn't worried about overloading that circuit. Then the power from the battery went to port 30 with an inline fuse and port 87 went to the amp.
I used the included red wire and cut it so the fuse was before the relay. The included ground wire connected to the battery. I spliced into this ground and connected to the ground on the relay (port 86).

Life is good.. :)
The speakers are not the best I have heard, but they are good. At speed (70mph), if the mp3 was sampled too low, then you might not hear it so well, but otherwise it was sufficiently loud. For the money, these are a great addition.

Hope someone finds this info useful.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
pics where down for a while, but just got a pm from somebody asking if i still had them. just got done updating the links in the first couple posts so the pics work again.

figured i'd bump it incase others are looking for a way to get switched power again.
 
pics where down for a while, but just got a pm from somebody asking if i still had them. just got done updating the links in the first couple posts so the pics work again.

figured i'd bump it incase others are looking for a way to get switched power again.
Thank you sir! I really appreciate it.
 
I saw a guy once who mounted an accessory switch above his ignition switch. So, there was enough clearance to turn the switch 'on' when the ignition was on, but as soon as you turned the key off, your key would bump the switch and turn it off.

Now that's high tech :cool:
 
Nice work scorpio_vette, thanks for posting.

I build another plug matching the factory plug, but with the electrical connector in the location of the switched 12volt wire instead of the ground connector which is where the original factory plug has it's lead coming out of.
Why build another plug? Can't you just add another lead to the existing one?
 
I just did it. I had a terminal repair kit for sealed connections on cars that had a small spade terminal in the kit that I made it work. Had to file down a bit but it fit. put a dab of silicone on the back and wire tied it to the connector for peace of mind. Try a auto supply store or local repair shop. What you need is a sealed connector terminal. Take the plug with you.
 
I'm thinking about doing this mod. For a while now I've been wanting to 'wire up' my tour-pak with a cigarette lighter and such, but I don't want it to be always hot. However, I do still want an always-hot USB charger like I have now. It's nice for when you wanna juice up your cellphone at a stop! A cellphone doesn't take enough juice to drain the battery. I've charged my iPhone from 20% to full, then hopped on, started her up and rode on.
 
Bike: 2009 vulcan 900 custom

I've been looking for FACTORY ignition switched power source for accessories, and from what I can find, the only 2 accessory leads that I can find (headlight bucket and under seat) are CONSTANT hot. So that's pretty much useless.
Looking at the wiring chart, the Blue/White accessory wire is hot (BL/W) and the Black/Yellow accessory wire is ground (BK/Y). When the BL/W wire passes through the fuse (labeled #1) it is now the White (W) wire. The W wire ends up at your ignition switch and is switched.

Correct me if I am wrong...It's small print on the schematic.
Salute!
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
How about some helpful links to online shopping for purchasing the hardware? Plugs, relay, and fuse box etc... Food for thought.
there are so many varieties and places to purchases these things from, that it doesn't really make that much sense. relays can be pulled from junk cars, purchased anywhere from walmart, hardware stores and every auto parts store. fuse boxes can be purchased in a variety of sizes, styles and variations from an unlimited number of locations. I'm actually thinking about replacing the fuse block and relay in that picture with a new waterproof fuseblock with build in relay that I found online not to long ago.
 
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