Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
If you could have been the one that designed the 2000 what if any major changes would you have made differently than how the 2000 is right now.
Im sure there are more but the two biggest changes I would have done would be.

Hydraulic clutch
Shaft drive
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
571 Posts
I like the belt drive. Though I understand why some would want a shaft drive.

My beef is the ground clearance is heinously poor for me. I lean bikes over as far as I can on turns and on this bike I barely get it over and the boards scrape badly. So I am going to fabricate brackets to raise them up.

Other thing would probably be to offer hard bags and a legitimate rack for mounting a rear trunk.


Add cruise control. And have an on board audio system option for CB and music and intercom.

Lastly, I would ask them to use more aluminum if possible to lighten the bike, and put a better rear shock on it.

I am getting a Penske shock built for it and I am sending my forks to Lindemann Engineering in Redlands, CA to have them revalved and rebuilt to my specifications and body weight. I use primarily the front brake and I want the nose dive to be gone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
If you could have been the one that designed the 2000 what if any major changes would you have made differently than how the 2000 is right now.
Im sure there are more but the two biggest changes I would have done would be.

Hydraulic clutch
Shaft drive
Shaft drives suck! I had one fail on a VN750. IT would have cost a grand to replace. It's only a couple hundred bucks to replace a belt. Plus, the belt transfers power a heck of lot better than a drive-shaft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Shaft drives suck! I had one fail on a VN750. IT would have cost a grand to replace. It's only a couple hundred bucks to replace a belt. Plus, the belt transfers power a heck of lot better than a drive-shaft.
I had shaft drive on a 1500 Nomad a 1500 Mean Streak and a 1500 Gold Wing and I really liked it and never had a single problem. The Gold Wing had over 100K on it when I sold it to a buddy and now it has 150k and all he or I ever did was change out the gear oil ever tire change.

I will give you the the shaft will suck up some power but the 2000 has plenty and I would give up a little oomph to get rid of the belt.
Yes a belt is cheaper to replace but what if your doing both pulleys and a belt which sooner or later will happen if you keep the bike long enough. I haven't priced pulleys but I bet the cost for the pulleys and a belt would exceeded the cost to repair a differential .
My thought anyway .
Edited to add: I changed to gear oil in the Nomad and Streak at rear tire change also.
The Nomad had 60K when I sold it and the Streak had 55k.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
I had shaft drive on a 1500 Nomad a 1500 Mean Streak and a 1500 Gold Wing and I really liked it and never had a single problem. The Gold Wing had over 100K on it when I sold it to a buddy and now it has 150k and all he or I ever did was change out the gear oil ever tire change.

I will give you the the shaft will suck up some power but the 2000 has plenty and I would give up a little oomph to get rid of the belt.
Yes a belt is cheaper to replace but what if your doing both pulleys and a belt which sooner or later will happen if you keep the bike long enough. I haven't priced pulleys but I bet the cost for the pulleys and a belt would exceeded the cost to repair a differential .
My thought anyway .
Edited to add: I changed to gear oil in the Nomad and Streak at rear tire change also.
The Nomad had 60K when I sold it and the Streak had 55k.
Technically, pulley's don't wear out like sprockets for chains. My 30 year Chevy truck has the same engine pulley's on it from factory. So, yeah, no need to replace them unless something catastrophic happened. Also, belt drives don't require oiling. Maybe occasional tension adjustment. Sorry, if I bought a VN2000, I would want as much power to the rear wheel as possible w/o using a chain. Plus, belts don't make the whining noise a drive shaft does.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
1, hydraulic clutch ( tired of replacing cables and the insain maint needed to keep one in good shape due to the massive tense pull it has on the lever)
2, better rear shock ( stock this bikes set for a 180lbs rider.....ive yet to meat a 180lbs guy that is big enough to control this thing)
3, PUT A FREAKING 6 SPEED IN IT ( 5th is a dead gear with no power and the ratio for cruising around town or mountain corners makes me wanna pull my hair out. 2nd is reved too high. 3rd chugs and is reved too low. its annoying because there isnt a great sweet spot your always shifting it seems. )

other then those i can live with the rest. the ride height is a big issue i wish we had about a inch more clearance because my frame is really taking a pounding with the way roads are here. and im looking at fabbing a skid plate of sorts to try and save it from any more damage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Everything Ramcharger said goes double for me, except ride height...

I can live with the ride height. I'd love it to be a tad lighter. I'd have liked a taller front tire (21" would be heavenly)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
991 Posts
ANY fairing that doesn't make your Visa whimper....

-1 more inch between the backbone and the back spark plug.... Or a hole thru the backbone for the socket extension....
-a little more meat in the rear hub around the bearings... for when your wife ceases to be ballerina size
-rubber mounted headlight bezel on nacelle models..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
ANY fairing that doesn't make your Visa whimper....

-1 more inch between the backbone and the back spark plug.... Or a hole thru the backbone for the socket extension....
-a little more meat in the rear hub around the bearings... for when your wife ceases to be ballerina size
-rubber mounted headlight bezel on nacelle models..
What would more meat around the hub bearings do to help with a larger gal. My wife is pleasantly plump and Im just plain fat at 300lbs LOL
I need to change my spark plugs what was your method to get to the back plug?
 

·
Bike Of The Year Winner, 2012
Joined
·
4,916 Posts
What would more meat around the hub bearings do to help with a larger gal. My wife is pleasantly plump and Im just plain fat at 300lbs LOL
I need to change my spark plugs what was your method to get to the back plug?
Unbolt the tank and lift it a bit. Don't have to take it off.. just lift it a bit to make more clearance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
991 Posts
I am starting to get a bit of slack around the bearings in the rear wheel, especially on the exhaust side. I change the bearings every year so that might have something to do with it too.
As for the spark plug, I got a socket with a nut on the top and used a flat wrench to break it loose. The socket was too tall to continue out with the plug so I got a regular socket and used a tiny 1/4 drive ratchet to turn the plug enough to get past the crush washer resistance. Bit of a game to get that socket out and then spun the rest of the way with fingers. Going back in was a bit tougher because you have to crush the washer again, but 1/32 of a turn with really fine ratchet teeth in that little slot in the head where the plug wire pokes out........ I actually considered pulling the motor...
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top