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338 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So, I just had delivered a National Cycle N945 lightbar. Like this:

N945 National Cycle Spotlight Bar

Are there any *detailed* directions on how to install this on the Vulcan 2000 Classic LT? Including links to any needed parts?

I am *not* mechanically inclined. I usually hate working on cars / bikes. But, electrical stuff I usually can do. But, I need detailed instructions. Preferably with photos and diagrams. Don't expect I'll know what the heck you are talking about if you just give generic directions. Because I won't. :)

The directions that came with the lightbar are very generic.

I don't need a switch to turn the spotlights on/off. I want them to come on everytime the headlight does. And to stay on, regardless if I am on low or high beam.

Hopefully this group has someone that took good notes or something. :eek: :)

338 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Well, since nobody replied here, I got some help off of the VN2000 FaceBook group. Got this installed yesterday. Took photos of most of the steps, and I'll try to reproduce them here for anyone else in the future looking to do this. I am including links to VERY large / hi-res photos hosted on my website that I took. A link to click on will be provided for each one.

NOTE: I ended up opting to just tie in the two spots to the low-beam line in the headlight bucket. If you choose to connect to the high beam, or run a new line back to the battery, that's up to you.

Here is a pic of the stock front turn signal bar on my 2008 VN2KLT:


1. Buy the National Cycle N945 light bar. :)


2. First step is going to be removing the two bolts that hold the stock front turn signal bar onto the bike. I believe they are 11mm. The signal bar will flop down out of the way:


3. Unscrew the headlight from the bucket. One phillips head screw, on each side of the headlight.


4. You'll set aside the two bolts from the bar, and the two screws from the headlight...do not lose them:


5. Lift the bottom of the headlight and pull out, then disengage it from the top, and pull all the way out. Note that there is one big plug going into the back of this headlight. You'll have to pull that off. It is a 3-prong plug, and usually VERY tight. Took me a bit to get mine to pull off:


Back of headlight after detachment:


6: Once it is off, you will then see two smaller, long plugs. Those are for your turn signals. The grey one is for the right turn signal, the black is for the left. I marked them with a sharpie just to make sure I didn't forget:



7. Unplug the turn signals, and unthread them through the back of the headlight bucket, and completely detach the stock front turn signal bar:


8. Take your new National Cycle N945 light bar, and sit it on a bench or table. Separate the wires, making sure you get the two for the left and right signals, each, split apart so you can easily tell which side goes to which. The two black wires with tiny white lettering on them are your power for the spots. The solid black and solid red are for the signals. The black is power, the red is the "signal" to blink when the turn signal switch is hit.


9. I cut the turn signal plugs off of the old, stock light bar, for ease of connection back in the headlight bucket. Made sure there was a good 4" of wire off each plug. For some reason, there are 3 wires on the plug, a Green and a Black/Yellow, and a Blue. The blue, as far as I can tell (and according to the official wiring schematic) isn't used. I removed that blue wire from the plugs. Someone feel free to correct me on this blue wire if I am wrong.

10. First, slip on some shrink wrap tubing.


11. Then proceed to twist together the wires for each signal. Green to Red, and Black/Yellow to Black.


12. Then solder them together:


13. Once cool, slide the heat shrink tube over the soldered connection, and use a lighter to shrink (I prefer a cigar jet lighter):


14. Set the new N945 light bar on your front fender. Plug in the left/right turn signals, and test them. You can see my shrink-wrapped wires here also (still captured from video during blinker test):


15. Disconnect the turn signal plugs from the previous step. Zip tie the wire bundle together, and then feed them up, around, behind, and then through the hole in the back of the headlight bucket. Plug in the left / right turn signals via the plugs you wired earlier.


16. Take a waterproof, in-line fuse, and do the whole "twist, solder, heat-shrink tube" thing to the two power lines for the spots (the black wires with small white lettering) to one end of the in-line fuse (and put in a 20amp fuse):


17. Locate the low-beam power line on the big plug that plugs into the headlight (the 3-prong plug). It is the Red/Yellow wire you see on the left in this pic:


18. Using the method of your choice, either cut the wire, and then solder both ends of the cut into the other end of the in-line fuse from step 15, or use one of those in-line connectors that has a passthrough on one side, and a stop on the other, to connect them:


...I opted to just cut the line, and solder them together. My low-beam Red/Yellow wire already had a cut on it for some reason, so I just cut the wire there. Do whichever you prefer. If you go the route I did, put a wire nut over the soldered connection for insulation.


19. Arrange all the wiring into the back of the headlight bucket as best you can, and then plug the headlight back in, and re-install it. Use the two phillips-head screws to re-secure it.

20. Use either the two 11mm bolts from the original turn signal bar, or the included allen-wrench bolts, to attach the light bar to the mounting holes. I preferred to re-use the 11mm bolts because an 11m wrench is usually easier to find than the right sized allen wrench. However, either will work fine. Once done, your new N945 light bar is installed:


21. Last step will be to make sure the spots and turns are facing the right direction. There is an 11/16ths bolt under the spots that you can loosen to turn them, and a 7/32nds allen wrench bolt on top of each turn signal. You will have to turn the spot over 90° to get to that allen bolt. Just make sure you have everything aligned and you should be good to go!
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