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My 12K mile adjustment

Also be careful when re-installing the ignition coils. I popped out two of the rubber grommets that go between the coils and the frame. It was a b#$%h getting them to stay in the frame while I secured the coils. FWIW .... Old
 

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Does anyone has a video showing on how the valves should sound when well adjusted ?
Well, nobody has answered you so I thought I would post a video of my valve sounds after I did the adjustment and we can go from there:
https://youtu.be/-ymMEdqO4eM
I am not claiming that they sound correct, maybe someone else will see the video and will comment on how mine sound for you.
 

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Thank you Pardner that helped alot I need to check/adjust mine its about time I'll post a video on how they are sounding now for you to hear it.
 

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Well, nobody has answered you so I thought I would post a video of my valve sounds after I did the adjustment and we can go from there:
https://youtu.be/-ymMEdqO4eM
I am not claiming that they sound correct, maybe someone else will see the video and will comment on how mine sound for you.
They sound spot on!! :)
 

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Sounds like a happy little sewing machine! Just like mine does now!
Protip: When the tutorial says to make sure the alignment pins aren't somewhere where they can fall into the engine... do that. I managed to add an entire hour to the process trying to correct my almost epic booboo.
 

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"T" mark is the correct mark to use

The article calls out to use the "F" mark as TDC, but this is the mark used for ignition timing and is 10 degrees BTDC. The correct mark for valve adjustment is the "T" mark.
 

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Those coolant tubes are a PITA to remove. I got the screws out eventually (they've been shredded) and have M6x12 allen type to replace but will have to go back to the coolant tubes after I've cooled down.
 

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vulcan 500 coils

Just finished with my first valve adjustment. Thanks for all the help.
But I think I might have switched the coils left to right. Does it matter and how do I tell if I got them on the correct side?
 

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I really need some insight!
3 weeks ago we (both mechanically inclined) adjusted the valves on my '02 EN500 C, 16k miles. The bike started but backfired out of the right side and just did not have its normal power. We adjusted the valves again the following weekend but following this forum, still backfired and just not the same power. This past weekend we adjusted them again according to the repair maumnual...same thing.
We have the gas tank off. We're using a gravity fed reservoir to supply fuel because were tired of the on and off with the tank. The lower cap on the stator cover is now broke (!!!) from too many on and offs (I have one ordered). It cranks but will not start. It might be flooding. I too frustrated. It has spark and new NGK Plugs. My boyfriend said he has adjusted the idle screw on the lower left and I can't tell if it's out of spec or not. I'm just losing my patience and cannot get my head wrapped around this. The bike had only one issue before adjusting the valves. The valves were noisy, I knew it was due. Prior to this it ran great, fired up everytime without hesitation had plenty of power...HELP!!!
 

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I did my valves for the first time this season -- previously I'd done them on small 4 stroker hand held equipment, so not a ton of relevant experience. But I'd like to add a couple things that made this better, easier or just more understandable for me.

First time I did the adjustments I inserted the feeler gauge from the side of the valves. But what I noticed the 2nd time I went in is that the rocker arms don't sit flat on the valve heads, they are at an angle when they are not pressing down on them. What that means is the most accurate way to measure is insert the feeler gauge from the front of the rocker arm where it is making contact. There you can dial it in to where it's got a bit of resistance appropriate to the spec.

2nd, there's all kinds of debate on what mark denotes TDC on which stroke for which piston. The manual I was reading said the "T" mark would point to piston #1 @ TDC... Wrong. That might be something to do with the jerk who mangled this bike before I got it -- but I'm not the only one riding a used Vulcan.
What worked for me and what the manual tells you is to measure the 2 valves (intake or exhaust, per cylinder) with the cam lobes pointing away from the rocker arm. Additionally if you are turning the crank by hand & you take the spark plugs out you can visually see with a small flashlight when the piston reaches the top of its stroke. From there see which set of cam lobes are pointing away from their valves and there you have it. Fire away.

To me these 2 steps worked to help me set the valves to my satisfaction where I felt I knew they were set properly. Lo & behold the bike runs better now!
 

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I have a Kawasaki EN500 on an R Reg, it was running sweet as a nut until I went to get it MOT, I only got 200 yards then it sounded like it was firing only on the left side, plus it was a little white smoke coming out of the right hand exhaust.so when I got home the right hand exhaust was cold, so I removed the spark plug which was wet, but not damaged, and it is sparking fine, and looking with a torch where the spark plug goes and turning the engine over all looks fine. Could it be the valve stem seals, Help.
 
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