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Discussion Starter #41
oh sabre, also not, i filled resoivor to Fill mark, b4 the capping radiator and gng for the ride, even tho u said leave at Low side a bit, hope thats ok. i just want to make sure no air is trapped, should I take cap off and run it again?
 

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Discussion Starter #42
also, have a quarter of a gallon of the peak coolant left, so i am concerned, it didn' take it all, and i thot the v900 capacity was 1 gal.?
 

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If the color light and no sediment, that means you changed it before all the inhibitors were depleted. That's a good thing. Once the system is all buttoned up, just add coolant to the reservoir, when it is cool, bringing it up to the minimum line. If everything is good and there are no leaks, this is rarely needed, though. The only thing I would suggest is to make sure you bleed out any trapped air, if your model has that bleed valve I mentioned earlier. I'm not sure what the procedure is for that, so maybe someone else will pipe in. After a 25 mile ride and it apparently not running hot, you probably got any trapped air out that the "blip" method, as I call it, would get.
 

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One request, Liondog: Please to not start or add to multiple threads for a single problem. It just makes it confusing and frustrating for folks trying to help you.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
SURE THING sabre. yall been a big help. I have the resolvoir between F and L...and about to do a 20mile ride.

is there way to know if i have trapped air? i guess if the fan keeps comin on? if so, how do u rememdy that?
 

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The fan is going to come on. As long as it is cycling on/off, you are probably OK. If it is a cool or warm day (not cold and not 90°F+), it may or may not come on for a short time at a red light, then shut off when you start moving and get air moving over the radiator. If it stays on while you are going a moderate and steady speed, then you might need to bleed the air. If the fan is staying on an you are losing coolant thru the reservoir overflow, it's definitely overheating. Without a way to actually check oil temp and the water temp as it comes out of the engine, you just have to know the signs of overheating.

As I said before, a 20 or 25 mile ride "should" purge the system, but if you are a really easy, as opposed to an aggressive rider, it may not. Some fast starts and relatively hard acceleration will often dislodge any air pockets. As I have mentioned several times before, your bike may have a valve that is intended to purge that air. I'm not familiar with your bike, so I can't tell you if it does or not or where it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
thanks sabre, do you think , replacing the t-stat at the same time of coolant, wouldv been a good idea? i remember working on cars, i 'd always remember from sr. techs, to change the t-stat and/or water pump, while your doing coolant change? ........so if there is air pockets, only way to get out is thru this valve i assume?.......if so i have to look into it
 

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If the thermostat is working, no need to replace it.

If you don't have that valve, you have get the bike warmed up, with the system filled, the coolant circulating (thermostat open) and gun the throttle quickly several times like you were reving a Harley at a stop light, only more so. Fast, aggressive twist, and immediate release. That causes a surge from the water pump and will usually eliminate most or all of the air from the system. That's why a fairly aggressive 20 mile ride should also do the trick, but sometimes it doesn't. Using the valve, if you have one, is better.

If it does not seem to be running hot, as I said before, you are probably OK, so don't sweat it. Those air pockets, if there are any left, will eventually work themselves out.
 
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