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Discussion Starter #1
OK, only 500 miles so far and one of the things that I noticed is that this 2014 Nomad is "twitchy" on the highway. Now, I'm comparing this to the cruiser bikes that I currently own, and those that came before.

What say you?

Also, - can someone link me to the rear wheel alignment procedure. I suspect that it's off a fuzz because I must put pressure on the left bar to make it go straight.

Thanks
 

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OK, only 500 miles so far and one of the things that I noticed is that this 2014 Nomad is "twitchy" on the highway. Now, I'm comparing this to the cruiser bikes that I currently own, and those that came before.

What say you?

Also, - can someone link me to the rear wheel alignment procedure. I suspect that it's off a fuzz because I must put pressure on the left bar to make it go straight.

Thanks

If by twitchy you mean the bike hunts or follows seams in the pavement, then yes ,more than likely you have an alignment problem.

The process is very straight forward.

Remove the bags(three bolts each)verify alignment with notches on frame. Adjust visually. Like any other 2 wheeled belt or chain driven apparatus on the planet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Rather, I should have said that it seems like it gets blown around back and forth sorta. Similar to the way ya get tossed when riding off the tail of a tractor-trailer.

The alignment marks are right on the money and the belt is far outside of the pulley.

On our chain drive bikes, I use a little laser alignment tool that goes against the rear sprocket and do adjustments until the chain runs true.

Harleys have dimples in the axle and in the swing arm bolt and ya just measure each side.

I was thinking that Kawasaki maybe had their own special procedure ?
 

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The belt should ride just next to the outside of rear pulley. If it is more centered the front of the rear wheel is turned to the left, if its against the outer edge the tired is pointed to the right. You cant always count on the hash marks being completely accurate. By the way, the factory specs for belt tightness tend to be on the tight side.
 

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I bought a "new" 13 voyager this spring and it is twitchy on the roads too. my last 2 kaw. where the same and this one will be cured too after the tire change, these stone's suck on these bikes. don't worry till after you wear out the tires
 

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Something else that many have found is the factory recommended tire pressures are very low. Both of mine handle much better with 36psi front and 40 psi rear. I have been told the tread wear is better at the higher psi but have not had new tires on long enough to verify that.
 

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I've got an 09 nomad and was blown around alot at freeway speeds. I replaced the stock lowers with Chucksters lowers which helped alot. I'm scheduled next week to replace the original Brigestones with Commander II which I hope helps as well. I'll let you know if the new skins improve the stability .
 

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I noticed that as well when riding in strong crosswinds at first. I think it has to do with the 1700's shorter wheel base/steeper rake and higher center of gravity than my last bike. But on the other side of the coin those characteristics make it also more nimble on city roads and parking lots.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I run 40 front and 42 psi rear. It's been my experience that pressures lower than that lead to the tires feathering and even cupping.

Of course, your experience can, and will vary.
 

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I run 40 front and 42 psi rear. It's been my experience that pressures lower than that lead to the tires feathering and even cupping.

Of course, your experience can, and will vary.
Try dropping your front to about 36 and rear to 40 and I believe you will find the bike more into the road.
Tried higher air pressures before and bike felt ontop the road and twitchy:waving:
 
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