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Hello,

I finally think that I know why I forget to turn off my turn signals besides being old and forgetful. The green indicater light really doesn't show up well in the sunlight and it is blocked from view by my chin on the helmet unless I lower my head and look away from the road. I have purchased a 12v waterproof LED that I intend to mount somewhere more in my line of view and thereby avoid leaving the signals on inadvertantly. I'm looking for advice as to where would be the easiest point to tap the required circuit to power the LED. Thanks for any advice. I KNOW there are some geniuses out there.
 

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Looking forward to the answer to this question, as I've often thought of hooking up a quiet little piezo speaker. My daughter's scooter has a quiet but audible "beep beep beep" that's quite a helpful reminder.
 

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Hello,

I finally think that I know why I forget to turn off my turn signals besides being old and forgetful. The green indicater light really doesn't show up well in the sunlight and it is blocked from view by my chin on the helmet unless I lower my head and look away from the road. I have purchased a 12v waterproof LED that I intend to mount somewhere more in my line of view and thereby avoid leaving the signals on inadvertantly. I'm looking for advice as to where would be the easiest point to tap the required circuit to power the LED. Thanks for any advice. I KNOW there are some geniuses out there.
Follow the front turn signal wiring back to the first plug from each. Regarding the right turn signal wire look for the gray wire. This will be on the harness side of the plug. Regarding the left side signal wire look for the green wire, also on the harness side of the plug. Tap into both these wires for your new LED. No other wiring required.
 

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Looking forward to the answer to this question, as I've often thought of hooking up a quiet little piezo speaker. My daughter's scooter has a quiet but audible "beep beep beep" that's quite a helpful reminder.
You will not be able to use the same wiring plan that SailorBill will use. In your case you will need to wire in two cheap diodes, one from the gray and the other from the green, then to your beeper and then to chassis ground. In my attachment the green ball represents the beeper not the indicator. Tap into the gray and the green instead of cutting them then to the diodes and then the beeper.
 

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Follow the front turn signal wiring back to the first plug from each. Regarding the right turn signal wire look for the gray wire. This will be on the harness side of the plug. Regarding the left side signal wire look for the green wire, also on the harness side of the plug. Tap into both these wires for your new LED. No other wiring required.
I'm a little curious here. For one, I don't see any mention of a ground wire. According to the service manual, the grey and green front turn signal wires are the positive wires coming from the switch to each bulb. But to light each bulb, there is a common black/yellow wire for ground. I would think that you need a ground wire on the LED too. Also, if you connect both the grey & green wires to one of the LED wires, won't voltage leak to the other circuit so that both right & left signals blink together. With this said, I do admit that the service manual shows the indicator lamp that is under the speedo being hooked to the grey & green wires with no ground either. Hoping someone smarter than me can explain this. It sure looks like either an open or shorted circuit to me.
 

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Its kinda sneaky how this is done. The dash light gets its ground from the other turn signal lamps. when the left turn signal is on, the current goes through the dash lamp then through the right turn signal bulbs to ground. left turn.jpg left turnsch.jpg The 3.4 w (0.28 amps) that the dash lamp uses isn't enough to light the two (front and rear) 23 watt (1 amp) bulbs. opposite for a right turn. right turn.jpg right turnsch.jpg

The catch is this: if you want to add an LED instead of the incandescent dash light, NOTE: LED= light emitting diode, an additional ground wire will need to be added, as current can only travel one way through an LED. As per Sojourner's post above.

I really hope this makes sense.
Hand drawn bike courtesy of my wife.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Tumbleweed,
My intent is not to replace the original light but simply to supplement it. Sojourner doesn't indicate adding a ground although if current can only pass one way, I don't know which LED wire to attach to which (gray or green turn signal wire). I admit to being a little confused. I was thinking of trying to reach some wires by taking off the instruments and accessing there. I want to avoid taking the tank off if at all possible.
Sojourner. I knew a really great looking girl from Chiang Mai named Siriphorn. She was at Phanom Sarakam when I met her at first but moved then to Bangkok. The catch? She is probably about 70 years old now. I left Thailand in 1963!
 

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Have you considered drilling a small hole in the back or on top of the signal housing to mount the led so it faces rear and upward? You didn't say how big the led was but I've seen them with a little chrome bezel not quite a half inch round. Just a thought. This way you could wire directly across each light circuit and see it blinking at you from whatever side was on.
 

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SailorBill,

My father in law was in same boat as you. He would always forget to cancel his signals as well. What he ended up doing was getting a seatbelt alarm speaker from a forklift. It's very small and concealable maybe 1 1/4" in diameter. he wired it to his signals for power and used double sided foam tape to mount it. Works like a charm...only thing is now I don't get to rag him for leaving on his blinkers for 20 miles anymore. Should be able to find one at most parts-houses. Also may wanna check Radio-Shack as they are pretty good for carrying stuff like that. If still no luck I can see if he can get another one and you can PM you your address and I'll ship it to you. Good Luck
 

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I forgot about the LED only illuminating with the proper polarity, sorry. Then for Sailor Bill to hook up his LED he'll have to do the two diode mod similar to what Pretzel needs to do for his beeper install. Sailor Bill, you wouldn't recognize Chiang Mai now, it's changed so much. Funny you should remember her name after all these years. Thai girls have that effect on us farangs LOL.
 

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Tumbleweed,
My intent is not to replace the original light but simply to supplement it. Sojourner doesn't indicate adding a ground although if current can only pass one way, I don't know which LED wire to attach to which (gray or green turn signal wire). I admit to being a little confused. I was thinking of trying to reach some wires by taking off the instruments and accessing there. I want to avoid taking the tank off if at all possible.
Hmmm. Instead of cutting the wires or anything drastic like that, you can get those blue wire splices just to tap into the wires. Then do the diode and ground wire mod from the spliced wire. And no worries, you wont have to remove the tank for this. The wires on the back of the gauge are long enough to work with.
 

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My instructor in the MSF course that I took gave me a website where he buys a head light modulator for every bike he owns because it really enhances his visibility to other motorist. They also sell a self canceling turn signal mod, along with a few very nice Safety Electronics.

Since my wife and I just recently started riding, I beat up my credit card pretty bad buying the proper gear. Once I get that under control I'd like to get us a couple of these nice looking mods

https://www.kisantech.com/index.php?cat_id=4
 

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Its kinda sneaky how this is done. The dash light gets its ground from the other turn signal lamps. when the left turn signal is on, the current goes through the dash lamp then through the right turn signal bulbs to ground.
You know, this is why I'm a mechanical engineer. These EE guys can cheat the system and confuse everyone. It still looks like a shorted circuit to me, but since it evidently works, who am I to argue.

By the way, I like the idea of adding the two small LEDs in the backs of the front turn signal jugs. Or you could even do it in the headlight jug since the wires run through there to get to the signals. Either way, this is a nice clean little solution that although it will get your attention, it shouldn't glare out as an obivous add on to anyone else.
Cheers!
 

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Hmmm. Instead of cutting the wires or anything drastic like that, you can get those blue wire splices just to tap into the wires. Then do the diode and ground wire mod from the spliced wire. And no worries, you wont have to remove the tank for this. The wires on the back of the gauge are long enough to work with.
If those wire splicers your are talking about just clamp on and cut through the wire insulation to make the circuit then they can cut through the wire over time due to vibration. It's always better to make the proper connection the first time then to have problems and have to do the work all over again. Don't ask me how I know this.:)
 

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Hi Guys,
I always had the same problem of forgetting the Turn Signal was on. I tried loads of different things. I mounted an additional LED Indicator of the top of the Headlamp Housing but although it worked, in sunlight it was invisible. I wired in a Buzzer inside the headlight. Again it worked but you really couldn't hear it whilst on the move.
I have ended up wiring in a KISAN SIGNALMINDER. This tick all the boxes as it cancels the Turn Signal after an adjustable time period. It also allows the indicators to act a running lights, allows 4 way hazard flashing and also allows indicators to flash when braking. (This is an issue in the UK and may well cause the bike to fail its MOT. Easy remedied by just disconnecting this facility prior to trip to MOT Station) The Turn Switch has to be slightly modified which I found very tricky so I haven't altered that bit yet. The system will still work without this mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey everyone,

I knew you guys were knowledgable and thanks for all the input. Tapping into the headlight bucket seems to make the most sense as I would mount the LED on the casting at the top of the forks and everything then turns together so no worries about the wiring. I think I could mitigate the sun issue by putting a minute shad over the LED. If anyone is inclined to clarify tehe wiring needed based on tapping in this area, I would appreciate it as I was a structures engineering manager and wiring and lighting was usually just a PITA to my engineers and myself. LOL
 

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I have designed a system that works in testing. The hurdle is that the indicator in the gauge cluster is a bulb, not an LED. Polarity of the voltage going to the bulb reverses from left to right turn.

I have a stud type LED installed in the lower forward portion of the chrome instrument cover that faces forward and up. When I sit in my normal position in the seat, the LED will reflect off the chrome strap across the middle of the windshield, up in my line of sight.

In order to run the LED, I have attached two rectifier diodes to the positive lead for the LED, polarity toward the LED. I will attach one of
these leads to the wire on the gauge cluster plug that is pulsing positive when the switch is turning left, and the other to the wire that is pulsing positive when the switch is turning right. The negative LED wire I'll connect to a common ground on that same plug.

Thus, the LED will flash when either turn signal is flashing. The whole lash-up will be beneath the gauge cluster cover.
 

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On my Suzuki Boulevard I mounted an LED in the headlight can facing back at me. Was fine in the daylight, but blinded me at night.
 
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