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Discussion Starter #1
Okay my bike is half apart and I'm stuck.

I can't get the belt loose. Just loosen the two nuts in the back and slide it forward right? Is there anything else?

Is there a way to do it WITHOUT pulling the front pulley? Can the regulator plug be yanked without taking it off?

It's a beautiful day guys I wanna spend it ridin' not wrenchin'!!
 

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1. after sliding the wheel forward roll the belt off the rear pulley. that will give you more than enough slack up front.

2. I didn't pull the pulley or yank the plug. I left enough of the original wire on the harness that I could make the connection above the tranny. I wrapped the wires in black tape and tied them back so they blend in behind the rear cylinder. I'd post a pic but I just covered her up and it's starting to rain.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1. after sliding the wheel forward roll the belt off the rear pulley. that will give you more than enough slack up front.

2. I didn't pull the pulley or yank the plug. I left enough of the original wire on the harness that I could make the connection above the tranny. I wrapped the wires in black tape and tied them back so they blend in behind the rear cylinder. I'd post a pic but I just covered her up and it's starting to rain.

Good luck!
I don't really understand what your telling me. When you say you "made the connection", how did you get the cover off? Cut the wires? What did you do?

Also, if I could slide the wheel forward I wouldn't be having that problem. How do I loosen it? Just the two nuts that are on top of each other on the left side right? Or is there more? The service manual is extremely vague (unless I'm in the wrong section)
 

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Umm, I don't want to be condescending or insult you, but did you loosen the 2 main axle nuts and then the 2 adjustment bolts that position the rear wheel?

If you did, then perhaps the frame and axle are corroded to the point where they won't allow the wheel to move forward. You might need to lubricate both sides with a penetrating oil.

Kerry
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Umm, I don't want to be condescending or insult you, but did you loosen the 2 main axle nuts and then the 2 adjustment bolts that position the rear wheel?

If you did, then perhaps the frame and axle are corroded to the point where they won't allow the wheel to move forward. You might need to lubricate both sides with a penetrating oil.

Kerry
Yeah I did but only about a quarter turn each because thats what I've been reading. Guess I need to do more.

I'm interested in how it was done without removing the pulley though...
 

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Also, if I could slide the wheel forward I wouldn't be having that problem. How do I loosen it? Just the two nuts that are on top of each other on the left side right? Or is there more? The service manual is extremely vague (unless I'm in the wrong section)
There are 2 very large axle nuts ( maybe 18 to 20mm? ), one on each side. The right side (muffler) has a cotter key locking system. You will likely have to loosen both of those. Then there are the adjustment bolts that have 2 nuts on each of them. One is to secure the adjustment rod, the outer one is to lock the first nut down so it can't move. You will likely need to loosen both of those on each side, to allow the wheel to move forward freely.

Does that make more sense?

Kerry
 

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Rear wheel: Remove the top belt guard. Loosen the rear axle nut (behind the pipes). Loosen the double nuts on the tensioning screws enough so the brackets can swing down. You should be able to push the wheel forward enough to 'roll' the belt off the pulley. Reverse the process to reassemble.
 

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Stator Wires: This is not the right way to do this, but I couldn't remove my front pulley. When I pulled the generator cover I cut the stator wires right at the stator. That, together with the wires that came on my Rick's stator, left me with about 18" of excess wire with I left in tact. I connected the ends of the wires and used the existing wire clips to make sure the loop didn't contact any moving parts. When reassembled this left a loop of wire above the tranny, behind the rear jug (the splices are actually in that loop). I wrapped the entire loop with black electrical tape then used a wire tie to hold the wires away from the jug. I intend to do a better job of it this year, but it got me up and running. http://fifedrum.org/sjbaretsky/wires.jpg
 

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Okay, since I just replaced the rear pulley, maybe I can help you here. The rear axel is a very large bolt with a 22mm bolt head (pulley side), and 27mm castle nut (muffler side) with a cotter pin. You'll have to loosen the nut more than a 1/4 turn for the wheel to slide forward (once you loosen the double tension/alignment nuts). Once loosened up you should be able to move the wheel forward (giving you plenty of slack). Follow the other guidance with regards to removing the top belt guard, and roll the belt off. You will be good to go from there.

Steve: your wire wrap looks good, and I would always rather have too much wire, than not enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well the issue I was having with the belt was I wasn't loosening the two small adjuster nuts (?) on the muffler side. Doy!

After all that, I realized the pulley wasn't coming off... AND that I was going to have to splice wires anyway.... so I went ahead and cut and soldered the wires. Don't have it all back together yet, hope to get her done tomorrow though.

Hope to get this out of the way, then on to maybe de-baffling my pipes :p
 
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