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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all
I have a Vulcan900, 2006 with 20,000 on the odomiter. It started to make a loud whinning noise coming from the bottom of the engine. Is not the belt because it does the noise in neutral as I rev the engine. Everything runs good with no engine power loss, no warning lighs had gone off. What could it be? please help, thanks guys.
 

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You got me on this one. You're in neutral so it's not the belt/tranny or clutch. If it just started out of nowhere a trip to the shop may be in order.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you all for your prompt advice and support, and for your contributions to this great forum. I checked the oil and its fine but I haven't check the water yet. The strange noise matches your description of water pump. If its the water pump, do you think it can be rebuilt or I will have to replace it? Any idea how much will it cost to fix? Hopefully just by adding water the noise disappeareds.
 

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IF you have bearings which have failed --- rest assured the case WILL have to be taken apart......IF IT IS TH WATER PUMP!!!!!! Good luck with this! Soory I don't have pictures.


4-10 COOLING SYSTEM
Water Pump
Water Pump Impeller Removal •Drain:
Engine Oil (see Engine Oil Change in the Periodic Maintenance
chapter)
Coolant (see Coolant Change in the Periodic Maintenance
chapter) •Remove:
Right Engine Cover (see Right Engine Cover Removal
in the Clutch chapter)
Bolt [A] and Washer
Impeller
Water Pump Impeller Installation •Be sure to install the rubber seal [A] and sealing seat
into the impeller [C] by hand until the seat bottoms out. •Apply a little coolant to the sealing seat to give the seal
initial lubrication. •Put the washer on the water pump impeller bolt. •Tighten:
Torque - Water Pump Impeller Bolt: 9.8 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 87
in·lb)
Mechanical Seal Replacement •Remove:
Water Pump Impeller (see Water Pump Impeller Removal)
•Pry the mechanical seal flange [A] off with a small chisel
. •Pull the mechanical seal out of the right crankcase with
needle nose pliers.
CAUTION
Be careful not to damage the water pump shaft and
the inner sealing surface of the crankcase.
•Discard the mechanical seal.
NOTE
○Since the replacement mechanical seal has an adhesive
coated body, do not apply liquid gasket to the exterior
surface of the body.
•Press the new mechanical seal [A] into the hole by using a
suitable socket and a bearing driver [C] until its flange
touches the step [D].
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
CAUTION
Be careful not to damage the water pump shaft and
mechanical seal.
COOLING SYSTEM 4-11
Water Pump
If the seal and ball bearing are damaged, replace the mechanical
seal, ball bearing, and oil seal by splitting the
crankcase. •Split the crankcase (see Crankcase Splitting in the Crankshaft/
Transmission chapter). •Take the bearing [A] out of the right crankcase, using the
bearing remover.
Special Tools - Bearing Remover Shaft, 9 : 57001-1265
Bearing Remover Head, 10 × 12: 57001
-1266 [C]
•Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, pry out the oil seal. •Press out the mechanical seal [A] from the inside of the
right crankcase with the bearing driver set .
Special Tool - Bearing Driver Set: 57001-1129
○Be sure to replace the mechanical seal, oil seal, and ball
bearing with new ones because these parts will
 

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Discussion Starter #7
AWESOME !!!!
Great advice, that's what I was looking for, I really appreciate it. I am going to start working on that today after work. I am fairly good with wrenches, have a torque wrench and the VN900 repair maintenance manual on .pdf file. Stay tuned for later updates on this whinning noise problem.
Thanks again for everything.
GREAT FORUM GUYS!!!
 

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BEFORE you "de-torque" all those nice little nuts a bolts, if you have a stethoscope have a real close listen to the noises in the motor, especially in the area of the water pump. Also look at the "blow up" of associated parts to be sure this is what you need to do. Hauling a motor apart can be expencive and in some cases unnecessary. So anyalize first. However from what you describe I think you are on the right track...Again, good luck..
 

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BEFORE you "de-torque" all those nice little nuts a bolts, if you have a stethoscope have a real close listen to the noises in the motor, especially in the area of the water pump. Also look at the "blow up" of associated parts to be sure this is what you need to do. Hauling a motor apart can be expencive and in some cases unnecessary. So anyalize first. However from what you describe I think you are on the right track...Again, good luck..
You can also use a wooden dowel / tube of suitable length, etc to better locate the source.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good idea, I will do that, and I'll search the shops around the hood for an affordable diagnosis, because as you just mentioned, those parts my be expensive and I don't want to be guessing around. It's better to be on the safe side, and if I don't feel sure to do it my self, I'll let the pros to do it instead. But is good to know that I can always find some good friends online willing to help.
Thanks again folks, I will keep you guys posted.
Greetings from San Diego, California.
 

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Sorry to tell you this, but it's your stator. Thats the coil part of the altinator. Remove the left side cover (no oil here, so it's cool). The rotor is bolted to the crank, the stator is around it; the thing with all the coils. Put a socket on the rotor bolt and rotate (ignition OFF). If it rubs, it's toast. There have been a lot of '06s that lost their stators, but not enough for a recall. Check with Ma Kaw if it IS your stator, and file a complaint. Only thing to do is replace it, for about $250.
Good luck, and let us know what it is.
 

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Loss of a stator will affect the charging system in that you will not charge the battery. Your battery will DIE in short order...Check to see if you actually have a positive input at 12.5 to 13 or 14 volts...less is bad as is too much....If it's rubbing(shorting) you'll hear more grinding than whining....IMHO
 
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