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Discussion Starter #1
Hows everybody doing, ive been itching for the past few weeks to start riding, and I have a plan to get everything in shape just thought i would ask all you vets your opinions.
Planning on doing a good amount of maintenance in the next week to get the bike ready for the season since i havent done much since oil and filters since i purchased the bike 4 years ago. Heres the list of things i plan on doing and need some minor advice on!

Another side note I work at a Ford/Hyundai dealership so keep that in mind.

Brake flush - First I will be doing a complete brake flush front and rear since its old fluid and it wont cost too much to get it done anyways, however im a little torn what to use. I can get Motorcraft DOT4 LV or I can use Hyundai DOT4 brake fluid, Motorcraft bottle says it has a higher wet boiling point by about 20 degrees. Or obviously i can just go get the napa special dot4 as some people like to claim dot4 is dot4 regardless. any suggestions here, main point is i can get the motorcraft or hyundai stuff for practically the same price as generic fluids.

brake pads - Im pretty much settled on purchasing OEM pads here ( dont want the sintered pads since reading around says they are rough on the rotors and as those are expensive id rather have the cheaper pads wear quicker.) my rear outer pad is just about to start scratching the rotor so I have to get those done before i ride this year because 40$ pads are much cheaper than $200+ rotor. Looks like partzilla has the pads for 47 plus 8 dollars shipping, nearest kawi dealer from me is over an hour but havent been able to check on prices there, my guess it will be about a wash either way plus i wont have to drive a 2 hour round trip for pads, anyone purchase oem pads recently?

Coolant flush - Again here is another one im not totally sure on what I should do, I have access to green hyundai coolant, and the myriad of ford coolant products (orange, green, specialty green, yellow) the one i was considering was the orange ford coolant they use in all the ecoboost engines, as they are mostly aluminum engines but cant seem to find anything about it having silicates or not, ive read alot of ppl using dex-cool which makes me cringe as ive seen that stuff gel up and cause blockages on all sorts of vehicles but to each is own, however i can get the ford 50/50 orange coolant (vc3dilb) for under 11$ a gallon

spark plugs - I already ordered the CPR7EAIX-9 this morning from work, I get a discount from napa however my price that way was about a buck less than anywhere else but hey ill take whatever i can get.

oil change - Mobil 1 Racing 4t 10w4 a no brainer for me, however the last few years i used the supertech filter from walmart, cant remember the exact part number off the top of my head. The reason I added this section though is i remember seeing someone here mention they use the Hyundai oil filter 26300-35504 which we sell tons of those every day and i can get them cheaper than the supertech filter ($4.50 for the hyundai filter maybe its not cheaper than the supertech cant remember at the moment, anyone have any experience with this filter). Any one have any thoughts on this is it better than the supertech filter? Also I have never changed the oil plug gasket didnt know it needed it but ive read the past few days that your supposed to. Hyundai recommends to change the oil drain plug gasket when you change the filter too would this happen to be the same gasket (aluminum washer) i may have to snag one to see how it fits anyways.

valve check - And this brings me to the scariest part of my journey. Ive wrenched on cars for a number of years and consider myself mechanically inclined (tech inclined too) but never had to do anything internally with an engine that could cause serious damage. I do have the kawi service manual and have looked that over and it does seem pretty straight forward. My biggest concern is the feeler gauges should i spend the money on a nicer set or would a cheaper set be as accurate. And the hot cams shim kit, do i really need to spend 60 - 80 bucks on a kit or is there a kit around that anyone here would recommend as the most used shims to save a little dough.


thanks for taking the time to read my book, like i said ive been itching badly lately to start riding again and want to make sure my bike is tip top shape before this weekend if i can.
 

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When you buy brake fluid, get the DOT 4 yellow bottle, it is synthetic and will not harm your paint. It also does not absorb water like regular dot 4 does. I would not worry about the valve adjustment, it will be fine. Just leave it alone
 

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All DOT 4 brake fluid is made from the same base - Polyethylene glycol (PEG) and all PEG is synthetic. There is no standard for the use of the word "synthetic" when applied to DOT 4. Some manufactures just slap it on any old DOT 4. Others use is to indicate that the process used to make the PEG produced longer molecules of more consistent size. What you should be looking for is the dry/wet boiling points. The higher these both are, the longer and more consistent size the PEG molecules are. Higher molecular weight PEG should last longer and absorb moisture less than lower molecular weight PEG.

Cheap DOT 4, made by conventional processes are usually pretty compatible, but you do not want to mix DOT 4 of different boiling points unless you mix them in a single container before you use them. Even then, there is some risk of separation due to the additives used regardless of the relative boiling points. Once in the brake system, they will not mix much and you get zones with different boiling points, compressability, and moisture absorption rates. Not good. Best to completely drain the system, add one single brand/grade of fluid, and drain again before the final filling.

A yellow bottle does not indicate the quality of the brake fluid. You can find high boiling point DOT 4 in red, black, blue, and yes, even yellow bottles.

Regardless of molecule size, PEG will damage paint. Larger molecules may slow down the rate of damage, depending on the quality of the vehicle paint, but it will still do damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well considering the bike just rolled over to 18k before i put it away and ive owned it since 6700 miles and valves have never been checked with me, I will be doing that before this season gets rolling. As far the DOT brake fluid i figured a higher boiling point was better so im leaning towards the motorcraft fluid unless my research shows a better brand.

I planned on flushing the whole brake system, top off the reservoir and bleed the brakes until its clear completely as its my understanding this will make sure all the old is out and all new remains.

thanks for the replies so far, looking to get everything going here this week, like i mentioned i already ordered the plugs and think i have the pads in line ready to go, will be stopping somewhere this week after work to get the oil.

Still gotta figure out the shims and feeler gauges and coolant yet
 

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Brake pads: I prefer sintered pads. Yes, they are rougher on the rotors, but they provide superior braking. I would rather have more stopping power and replace my rotors sooner. Organic and ceramic pads do not provide the same stopping.

Coolant flush and fill: Use a good alkaline flush. Better for the aluminum. There is no one standard for Dex-Cool. Because of that and the lack of information available on what additives are needed to meet the different Ford and GM Dex-Cool specs, I won't use Dex-Cool or "compatibles" in my bike. There are a lot of folks that have used Dex-Cool products with no problems, though. I prefer a straight OAT product like O'Reilly's Universal 50/50 (but, again, not the Dex-Cool compatible one).

Oil and filter: Sounds like you have a preferred oil, so... I used to use SuperTech oil filters. I have seen quite a few comparisons between filter brands where SuperTech faired quiet well. I just use K&N now, though, and am happy with them.
 

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Well considering the bike just rolled over to 18k before i put it away and ive owned it since 6700 miles and valves have never been checked with me, I will be doing that before this season gets rolling. As far the DOT brake fluid i figured a higher boiling point was better so im leaning towards the motorcraft fluid unless my research shows a better brand.

I planned on flushing the whole brake system, top off the reservoir and bleed the brakes until its clear completely as its my understanding this will make sure all the old is out and all new remains.

thanks for the replies so far, looking to get everything going here this week, like i mentioned i already ordered the plugs and think i have the pads in line ready to go, will be stopping somewhere this week after work to get the oil.

Still gotta figure out the shims and feeler gauges and coolant yet
If you drain the brake fluid, then fill, you get agitation that removes more of the old fluid. Just pushing new thru on top of the old can result in pockets of old fluid not getting flushed out. You're starting out your new fluid with some residual moisture contamination which is going to shorten the life of the fluid and could affect the boiling point and compressability.
 

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Thanks, I was not aware of that,only what the parts counter man has told me. I have used the yellow bottle ever since it first came out. I have noticed that every 2 years when I replace my brake/clutch fluid, that there seems to be no moisture content in the fluid, like it did with the old dot 4, brown bottle.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you drain the brake fluid, then fill, you get agitation that removes more of the old fluid. Just pushing new thru on top of the old can result in pockets of old fluid not getting flushed out. You're starting out your new fluid with some residual moisture contamination which is going to shorten the life of the fluid and could affect the boiling point and compressability.
How would you drain the system that way since the reservoir is lower than the caliper? (At least for the rear brake) I got some of the motorcraft dot 4 lv this morning so ill be ready to do the brake flush tonight possibly.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Coolant - I have used Chevron/Havoline DexCool since the first coolant change on my '07 900 in 2010 and have no problems, which is expected since that coolant meets all of the coolant requirements published in Kawi manuals. Brake fluid - moisture in brake fluid if over the limit (generally 3%) is a brake system killer since its continued use will lead to metal parts corrosion, and it reduces the boiling point of brake fluid. One can buy an inexpensive and accurate tester via Amazon, Ebay, etc.I use any available DOT 4 fluid in the each two years change interval in the Owner's Manual. As suggested in previous posts I do not mix brands, but generally speaking all DOT4 brake fluids are mutually compatible. Bleeding out old brake fluid by replacing it with new in the reservoirs may not fully get rid of the old fluid in the brake cylinders, but by doing some flushing beyond what is needed to where one can see that new fluid is bleeding from the system one can be assured that will be sufficient even if not absolutely perfect.
 

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How would you drain the system that way since the reservoir is lower than the caliper? (At least for the rear brake) I got some of the motorcraft dot 4 lv this morning so ill be ready to do the brake flush tonight possibly.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Use a speed bleeder device to suck the fluid out.
 

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Thanks, I was not aware of that,only what the parts counter man has told me. I have used the yellow bottle ever since it first came out. I have noticed that every 2 years when I replace my brake/clutch fluid, that there seems to be no moisture content in the fluid, like it did with the old dot 4, brown bottle.
"the yellow bottle", "brown bottle" What brand(s) are you talking about?

Edit:
By "seems to be no moisture content in the fluid" do you mean it didn't turn as dark? The color change is a combo of moisture and breakdown of the shorter chains in regular PEG. If you are actually seeing moisture in your brake fluid, you have a BIG problem! It does sound like the yellow bottle stuff you got is of higher molecular weight, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I ordered oem pads today, paid 10 bucks more than the dealer just over an hour away that couldn't get them for 3 to 4 more days and had to pay 10 bucks extra for 1 to 3 day delivery so i hopefully get them in time for this weekend. Still tying to figure out the coolant for sure and the feeler guages.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Valve Adjustment - Tanked402, there is a 2 part video on Youtube where a guy videos a valve adjustment on his 900. I've watched it, and feel confident that I could do the procedure. I believe he also includes info on how to get the shims for less than $80.


 

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Valve Adjustment - Tanked402, there is a 2 part video on Youtube where a guy videos a valve adjustment on his 900. I've watched it, and feel confident that I could do the procedure. I believe he also includes info on how to get the shims for less than $80.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrDNw957mcw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZHW33TMDL0
Awesome thanks for the links, i thought i checked youtube but couldnt find anything on the 900 specifically. Ill be sure to watch these after work to get a better idea of what i need to do
 

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How would you drain the system that way since the reservoir is lower than the caliper? (At least for the rear brake) I got some of the motorcraft dot 4 lv this morning so ill be ready to do the brake flush tonight possibly.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Use a speed bleeder device to suck the fluid out.
I accidentally drained my front brake during a fluid change. I learned the hard way that you can't push fluid through an empty line with the brake lever. You need something to suck it through the caliper. I used a vinyl hose and turkey baster. No local shops could sell me a bleeder!
 

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If you have not already, pick up a service manual. More than worth the cost with just one diy job.

As far as brake pads. Your choice, I went with OEM less hard on the rotors, good bite, They (the brakes) will still lock up when pushed.
You can get a perfect flush when you change out the pads. I picked up 3 syringes at the local pharm. for about $5ea. for withdrawing fluid out of the masters and slaves.
Changed mine out around 35000miles still lots of life left, keeping them for spares

The valves inspection, Sounds like you are at the mileage for one. Pretty strait forward, manual is great. The first couple of inspections required adjustment on mine.
I was able to use some of the shims from the installed ones, have only needed to pick up 6 shims total, and have plenty to make a few more adjustments in the future.
Pick up high quality feeler gauges, I picked up a set of brass ones, no magnetic interference. A small mechs magnet is great for removing and installing the shims.
Don't forget to block of the opening for the cam chain. You do not want to go there, when/if a shim fall into your crankcase.

If you are changing out coolant every 2-3 years as per spec. Any quality coolant for alumshould be fine.

Good Luck, Ride save & Often :)
 

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new honda cars have aluminum motors so i get my rad fluid from the honda car dealership a jug of honda type-2 50/50 pre-mix
 

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I didn't realize there was aluminum specific engine coolant. Would the bottle usually specify if its aluminum compatible? I bought engine ice over the winter to change my fluid...

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
 

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Another side note I work at a Ford/Hyundai dealership so keep that in mind.
Then you are all set. Use Hyundai DOT4 brake fluid, a Hyundai 26300-35504 oil filter, and the green Hyundai Long Life coolant that you will mix 50/50 with distilled water.

brake pads - Im pretty much settled on purchasing OEM pads here ( dont want the sintered pads since reading around says they are rough ...
OEM pads ARE sintered pads. Forget Kawasaki pads, you can't afford them. Get aftermarket EBC brake pads. I like the semi-sintered version.

I added this section though is i remember seeing someone here mention they use the Hyundai oil filter 26300-35504 which we sell tons of those every day and i can get them cheaper than the supertech filter ($4.50 for the hyundai filter maybe its not cheaper than the supertech cant remember at the moment, anyone have any experience with this filter).
The "Hyundai" filter (made by Mann) is waaaayyyyy better than the Kawasaki factory filter and since you work there, you are literally right next to cases and cases of Hyundai oil filters.

Also I have never changed the oil plug gasket didnt know it needed it but ive read the past few days that your supposed to.
Change the crush washer. If you work at a Hyundai Platinum dealer the mechanic will tell you that he/she can be FIRED for failing to do so on a Hyundai oil change. No exceptions to the rule if it is a Genesis. Hyundai-Kia don't mess around on a Genesis product.
it is a 12mm aluminum crush washer. The Hyundai versions will not fit. You can get these at the auto parts store by the handful for next to nothing.


valve check - And this brings me to the scariest part of my journey. Ive wrenched on cars for a number of years and consider myself mechanically inclined (tech inclined too) but never had to do anything internally with an engine that could cause serious damage. I do have the kawi service manual and have looked that over and it does seem pretty straight forward. My biggest concern is the feeler gauges should i spend the money on a nicer set or would a cheaper set be as accurate. And the hot cams shim kit, do i really need to spend 60 - 80 bucks on a kit or is there a kit around that anyone here would recommend as the most used shims to save a little dough.
Talk to the Kawasaki Parts/service dept. Once you get you shims rounded up that you need you can get just the one or two from them (and they probably have them in stock). Sometimes they will swap them out with your shims for nothing if you do other business with them.
 

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If you have not already, pick up a service manual. More than worth the cost with just one diy job.

As far as brake pads. Your choice, I went with OEM less hard on the rotors, good bite, They (the brakes) will still lock up when pushed.
You can get a perfect flush when you change out the pads. I picked up 3 syringes at the local pharm. for about $5ea. for withdrawing fluid out of the masters and slaves.
Changed mine out around 35000miles still lots of life left, keeping them for spares

The valves inspection, Sounds like you are at the mileage for one. Pretty strait forward, manual is great. The first couple of inspections required adjustment on mine.
I was able to use some of the shims from the installed ones, have only needed to pick up 6 shims total, and have plenty to make a few more adjustments in the future.
Pick up high quality feeler gauges, I picked up a set of brass ones, no magnetic interference. A small mechs magnet is great for removing and installing the shims.
Don't forget to block of the opening for the cam chain. You do not want to go there, when/if a shim fall into your crankcase.

If you are changing out coolant every 2-3 years as per spec. Any quality coolant for alumshould be fine.

Good Luck, Ride save & Often :)
Some aluminium safe coolants contain metasilicates. Metasilicates are a huge no-no in cooling systems not designed for using them.
 
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