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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Really thinking about removing the heel shifter portion of the shifter. I like to hang my heels off the rear portion of the floorboards and the back part of the shifter is in the way in on that side. I'm used to shifting with just the toe part of the shifter mechanism anyway. Anyone made this mod? Where/how we you make the cut?
 

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I want to do the exact same thing . I have big feet and I have to lift my heel or will hit that rear pedal. I can get my. I am thinking that just sawing might put stress on the pivot. but then again I do want it gone
 

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Sorry for not finishing my sentence . I meant to say I get my boot under the front shifter no problem so I don't need a heel. Just been riding with a toe my whole life
 

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I did this on my 2007 Vulcan 900, I was tired of hitting it with my foot and putting it in neutral after take off. I used a 4" grinder
to cut it off. I have a can of Plasti dip for tool handles and thought about dipping the cut end in it. Here's a few pic's to give you and ideal what it looks like. Hope this helps.
240173
240174
 

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Thanks Mr. Right Here!
If you could reply as far as how long have you run this modification and did you leave the front lever on the same splines o the shift shaft or did you raise it?
Thanks again
 

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Really thinking about removing the heel shifter portion of the shifter. I like to hang my heels off the rear portion of the floorboards and the back part of the shifter is in the way in on that side. I'm used to shifting with just the toe part of the shifter mechanism anyway. Anyone made this mod? Where/how we you make the cut?
Really thinking about removing the heel shifter portion of the shifter. I like to hang my heels off the rear portion of the floorboards and the back part of the shifter is in the way in on that side. I'm used to shifting with just the toe part of the shifter mechanism anyway. Anyone made this mod? Where/how we you make the cut?
I did it on my 2011 Vulcan 900 for the same reason. I believe the adjustment is the same for the front part.
 

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I cut my shift arm right where it goes lowest but kicked the lever up higher so now it just lift my foot for every shift just like it used to be. Awesome. I swing my feet up and its clear sailing. they touchdown on nothing but foot board
 

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I bought my bike new in 2016 and after hitting the heel part and knocking it into neutral several times I got the hack saw and cut as close to the splines as I could,then wire wheeled the edges ,heated up with small propane torch and used chrome paint applied while still hot to the touch so it dried quick,re installed,adjusted it up to get my boots under the shifter and never looked back. Best thing I ever did. The chrome paint helps to deter rust from forming.
 

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Are floorboards smaller on a 900 than a 1700? I went from a 900 Custom (pegs) to a 1700 Vaquero and I was sure I would hate the floorboards and heel shifter. It took about a week to get used to it. Upshifting with the heel is so much more comfortable that using the toe shift on a floorboard. I can't imagine why you would cut your bike up unless your boots are so long you can't get between the two. Oh well, to each his own. But if I were to do this mod, I would try to get a scrapyard shifter to cut up and hang on to the original for when I was ready sell.
 

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I took the heel shift off my 1600, just didn't care for it, didn't get enough shift "feel" using it. My other road bikes are all BMW flat twins and I am so used to a toe shifter it just feels more natural to me. Now, there is a way to make any big twin shift better, quicker, more positively. Its all about maintaining engine momentum and preloading the shifter.

Big twins, whether thats a BMW flat twin or a Vulcan V-twin, they have big ol pistons and often a lot of heavy flywheel effect. Shifts go much better if you minimize any rpm drop through the shift. What I found works really well: 1. When you're ready to shift up, preload the shifter to take up any lever travel slack 2. Right when you do the shift, use maybe 1/4 of the clutch lever travel as you very briefly chop the throttle 3. Same time you do that move the shift lever and it'll click up into the next gear positively and accurately 4. Since you use the clutch to barely interrupt the power to the rear wheeland loose little engine rpm, the bike accelerates smoother and more quickly.

If when shifting you let the engine rpms drop too much the engine has to work harder to get back up to decent push for the higher gear. You only need the clutch just enough to slightly unload the power during the shift and that can be done with very little clutch lever travel. If during shifts your habit is to pull the clutch lever back to the grip you loose too much engine momentum during that split second.
 

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Really thinking about removing the heel shifter portion of the shifter. I like to hang my heels off the rear portion of the floorboards and the back part of the shifter is in the way in on that side. I'm used to shifting with just the toe part of the shifter mechanism anyway. Anyone made this mod? Where/how we you make the cut?
Howdy,
Same for my 14 size shoes. I removed the shifter off the splined shaft and I cut it at the lowest point behind the pivot shaft so it would be out of the way and then { and this would be personal choice} I replaced the shifter arm by tilting it up to the next spline position so now it is higher up and for me , it means I remove my foot off the floorboard to downshift the bike. I used to ride a Harley and had the same configuration. I like taking my foot off for down shifts but my big feet can upshift on the board.
just personal preference
 

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After embarrassing myself several times with false neutrals at stop signs caused by my size 13 feet unknowingly hitting the heel shifter I cut it off just behind the pivot shaft. I raised the toe shifter just slightly higher by adjusting the threaded linkage and couldn't be happier with the mod.
 
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