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Discussion Starter #1
Hello folks,

I'm about to embark on the HD wheel mod, I found one w/ good rotors and so-so rubber off of a local '11 Street Glide. I'm anxious to get it on and try it out.
Of an aside, I went with the "laziness over $$" approach and ordered a spacer set from Speed Dealer Customs (attached). I'm hoping I can configure the right widths out of the box, but if not I have more room to re-do if I screw up. (machining stuff is not in my skill-set...lol) The're 25mm ID by 1 1/2 OD, set of 13 of various lengths. Plus they're kinda shiny. :desire:

My question to folks in the know like V2K_Rod, Rocnrol, etc.: I read Rod's write up about mounting the wheel, and I have it positioned on the axle. I used some inside calipers to get the distance from rotor to fork identical on either side, but when I give it the eyeball it appears my wheel is off center to the front fender. I measured again from the outside of the fender to the outside of the wheel, and it's not my eyes. I am off a bit to one side.

So, which do I align to? I can move it over then shave the calipers to fit but it seems odd that the calipers would be offset, or am I just missing something?
 

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BOTM Winner, October 2016
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The caliper mounts are narrower on the VN2000 than the HD. You will have to shave down the mounts at the forks to center the wheel. It's only off by millimeters if I recall. Don't forget to leave a small gap on the axle for heat expansion, I simply used a washer to help with the alignment for the gap.

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanx, Rod. I was expecting to shave the mounts down, I'm just not sure if I should have the wheel centered to the fender or to the forks.
Does it make sense that the rotor on the RH side (when on the bike) would be 2/10ths -sh closer to the fork than the LH rotor when it's centered to the fender?

To my way of thinking that seems odd, and I'd have to shave of more from one mount than the other...........
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanx....that and some 1" ID shims of varying get thickness did the job. I mounted the wheel both ways, centered to the forks then to the fender. I used some inside calipers to measure the fork-to-bearing configuration then assembled the spacers to match, leaving 2mm of space on the RH side as instructed. It still looks goofy to me centered to the forks, as the OEM was dead on to the fender. Still pondering how to progress.

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Discussion Starter #6
Side note: I built myself an axle tool welding 2 9/16 deep nuts together on a gr.8 bolt. O.D. On the nuts is 15/16, so it works perfectly. I'll snap and upload a pic later. Similar idea to the post where a guy welded w ratchet extension into a plug socket, but real solid. Works great for torquing the axle properly....

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, it's on. I went back and forth and ultimately decided to go with centering it to the fender. There ends up being about a 3mm difference in spacer length on the RH side, and a slight difference in the caliper cut-down, but regardless it appears to work. I have a ~30 Mile ride to work and that was my test drive. She ran straight, no new noises or shimmies and braking was quiet and smooth. I'll chalk it up as a win.

But man, I 'm not sure what I was really expecting when you said "lighter in the front end" but it's a huge difference. Hardly feels like the same bike. When I got to the edge of town and slowed down to 50 Km/hr, I did some slaloming and it almost startled me what a difference it makes.

Glad I followed your leads, V2K_Rod and Rocnrol, I really like the new feel.

Now, if I can just get my hands on a set of Freedom curved pipes and a BAK intake.................:devil2:
 

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BOTM Winner, April 2016
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Awesome, awesome work! Turned out great, looks amazing. The handling difference is really hard to put into words... in my opinion, it's the way the bike should have been built

Sent from my STH100-1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanx Rocnrol for your advice and posts about this, between all the info on the forums and V2K_Rods page it was relatively painless (Minor Dremel mishap aside...thank goodness for thick welding gloves)

Financial realities notwithstanding, now I have visions of shiny rims in my future seeing as there are so many HD options out there........
 

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BOTM Winner, April 2016
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Thanx Rocnrol for your advice and posts about this, between all the info on the forums and V2K_Rods page it was relatively painless (Minor Dremel mishap aside...thank goodness for thick welding gloves)

Financial realities notwithstanding, now I have visions of shiny rims in my future seeing as there are so many HD options out there........
You're most welcome Trenton, just passin down the wisdom for sure on the new world of wheel choices!!

Sent from my STH100-1 using Tapatalk
 

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BOTM Winner, October 2016
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Thanx Rocnrol for your advice and posts about this, between all the info on the forums and V2K_Rods page it was relatively painless (Minor Dremel mishap aside...thank goodness for thick welding gloves)

Financial realities notwithstanding, now I have visions of shiny rims in my future seeing as there are so many HD options out there........
Sorry I wasn't as active as I wanted to in your mod. My offset was about 4mm, though I did use some washers for adjustment. Most of the Vulcan bikes, 1600,1700,2000, had a similar issue with centering on the forks, must have something to do with how the HD wheel bearings are set vs the Kawasaki. Congratulations on your new wheel. Did the ready made spacers fit without cutting? Might be something to add to my how to page.

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Discussion Starter #13
No worries, your write up was assistance enough.

The spacer kit worked without shaving, using some 1" machinery bushings/shims to make up the difference. I don't have my measurements in front of me, but it was something around .985" on one side, 1.028" on the other (or thereabouts.)

https://speeddealercustoms.com/product/wheel-axle-spacer-kit-i-d-25mm-o-d-1-12-1-500-13-spacers-black-anodized/

The spacers come in 1/4, 3/8, and up so with the shims it ended up being close enough for government work.

Shipping to Canada was pricey, but I figured it was worth the price to avoid messing up more conventional bushings.
 
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