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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is the accepted way of lengthening the wiring runs to the handlebar controls? Gonna lengthen mine with hard soldered splices and heat shrink unless anybody knows of a source for wiring harness extensions.
 

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I put apes on my 900 last year and looked for a harness but couldn't find one. Ended up extending my wires the same way your thinking about doing yours.
 

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Yeppers, extending the wires is how you do it.

And.. as long as your doing THAT, if your new bars are predrilled, you should run the wiring thru it.

Shoot..even if they are not pre-drilled, tis not hard to drill em out.

I ran with the STOCK bars until last year.. here is a pic of when I ran the wiring thru the STOCK bars...Even my tack was routed thru there.. really cleans the lines up...

 

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I am going to be extending my cables and wiring them inside the bars soon. I suggest you stagger the cuts in your cable so you don't get a huge cluster of soldered connections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Staggering the wire splices was the plan and I think I'll yank the tank and splice as close to the harness as possible.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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Staggering the wire splices was the plan and I think I'll yank the tank and splice as close to the harness as possible.
iz, study yor bars and determine how much wire is needed to get thru the bars.
measure your stock wires from hand controls down to the connectors in the headlamp cavity. IF there is enuff length in the stock wires to clear thru the bars, you mite do well to pull them first and then splice after.

use a thin string with a paper or cloth mouse/tail on the leading feed end. use a vacuum hose and suck this prelimary pull string thru the bars, one each side. use these liteweight strings to pull a hevry weight pull string.
Remove the electric connectors from the harness and feed the stock cables from handgrip down to the center exit.
If you did your homwork rite, you should have plenty of wire emerge past the exit to work with to do your splices. This way you are not dependant upon the strength of your solder and the bulk they add to the dimension, requiring offset splices.

at this point if you are happy with the initial pull, (I would be), you could just use crimp bullet connectors to the added wires and reconnect to the electric fittngs in the headlight bucket. It provides a more serviceable method for future mods... but thats just how I would do it. poncho

ps. I would do all this on the bench and not on the bike.

btw, if I was pulling wires, would do as in all my construction projects; pull extra spare cables if they will fit, leave them inside the bar grip area until that next add on mod. then the unforseen needed wires (circuits) will already be available for you to take advantage of... ex. heated grips? aux lamps, chaff-flares, oil inject exhaust-smoke screen deployment, oil road spray behind in fast-tite corners, or even the standard issue machine guns.. all w/o taking yor hands off the grips. win/win
 

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Bike Of The Year Winner, 2012
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Actually...

after running wires thru 2 bars now...

i was talking to my painter about it. When he runs the wires thru the bars, the does not use "stock" wiring.

I forget what it's called, but it's shielded cabling that is basically designed to be underground. It's VERY tightly woven. A 10 wire line was less than the width of my pinky finger.

I'll use that stuff next time.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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Actually...after running wires thru 2 bars now...
i was talking to my painter about it. When he runs the wires thru the bars, the does not use "stock" wiring.

I forget what it's called, but it's shielded cabling that is basically designed to be underground. It's VERY tightly woven. A 10 wire line was less than the width of my pinky finger. I'll use that stuff next time.
smeds,, watt gage wire? we use a lot of sheilded data wiring in plenum(smoke) rated jacket. 22g is not hevy nuff for most sustained low voltage circuits, they draw too many amps for this lite wire. lite gage is fine for data and momentary initiation signals to latching circuits. we use 18g sheilded wire for signal and control work can carry larger load. not saying it cant work, would not use it on any load bearing circuits; lites, heaters, gunn triggers.. poncho
 

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Bike Of The Year Winner, 2012
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smeds,, watt gage wire? we use a lot of sheilded data wiring in plenum(smoke) rated jacket. 22g is not hevy nuff for most sustained low voltage circuits, they draw too many amps for this lite wire. lite gage is fine for data and momentary initiation signals to latching circuits. we use 18g sheilded wire for signal and control work can carry larger load. not saying it cant work, would not use it on any load bearing circuits; lites, heaters, gunn triggers.. poncho

Ewww.... come on poncho. You know ME.. you asking ME what size gauge wire that is????

I'll ask him more info on it though. I have to go up there this week and pick up the frame rails I had painted...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ponch, I like your idea of routing the wiring inside the bars. Looks like I'll need about 3" of added length in order to do that. Only problem I have is I've only had a few short rides with those bars installed and don't know if they are something I like and can live with on a long ride or do I need to try something different. It's a work in progress. Still trying to figure out where and how to mount and wire the Mr. Coffee. Time will tell. Hope I don't run out of it.
 
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