Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
A wiring power question; the connector to the decompression solenoid has a white/yellow wire feeding power to a black wire going to the solenoid. A black wire comes out of the solenoid to a blue/black wire going directly to the ECU.
Should this blue/black wire be a constant voltage power wire? I'm still trying to track my ground fault.
Should the 2 black wires have continuity from the solenoid as mine do? When I plug in the ECU with that blue/black wire I get the short to frame problem. The key and kill switch are always off.

I'm at wit's end as I thought I had this fixed numerous times and then the problem moved around. I'm absolutely changing out the wiring harness.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Short to ground. Plugged into the ECU, I have a short to ground. I show continuity between certain pins on the ECU that I am uncertain if it's okay. If it is my fault is somewhere in the harness I believe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
You will have to be more specific with examples.

Do not replace/purchase anything yet.
I wish I could be. I was blowing the ECU fuse when the key was on and then when I moved the kill switch to run it would also blow the headlight fuse when I touched the starter. I've had the entire wiring harness unplugged and apart looking for a wiring problem. Eventually when I unplugged the yellow wire from the stator (headlight relay) the issue went away but I wasn't going to start the bike until I had another relay. After I taped up my harness and put everything back together I decided to ensure it was still okay. When I did, I had the short to ground again and all I did was retape my harness and put my tank on and slide the battery into place. This was with the yellow headlight relay wire left unplugged.

I forgot to mention I also have an intermittent short to ground leaching issue. Withe power plug on my rectifier I charge the ground but it will dissipate to about half a volt if I leave the ohmeter on it for 5 minutes. This is without the ecu plugged in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,756 Posts
Some questions:

1. What year is it?
2. How many miles?
3. How long have you owned?
4. Is it a California model?
5. Any aftermarket add-ons, no matter unrelated?
6. What is the repair history, no matter how unrelated?
7. What was the initial problem...no start, etc?
8. Any start/driveability issues of any sort?
9. What is the make and model number of your meter for my reference.

Post back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Some questions:

1. What year is it? 2004
2. How many miles? 40000
3. How long have you owned? Got it in December
4. Is it a California model? Yes
5. Any aftermarket add-ons, no matter unrelated? I installed a resistor to eliminate the air valve, wrong one and it burned up and stopped the bike. I tried to restart it and it would only turn over. Threw on the original valve and these problems ever since (turned over, changed valve, blew ECU and Headlight fuse, short to ground, melted ECU when kill switch turned to on, fault became a leaching short to ground and then full, disappeared when the headlight relay unplugged, then the full fault returned after I taped up and re-installed the battery. Are the ECU's capable the same as the California ECU because I have a 49 state unit off a 2004 now?
6. What is the repair history, no matter how unrelated? No history as far as I know, I bought from the original owner.
7. What was the initial problem...no start, etc? See #5
8. Any start/driveability issues of any sort? Not before I screwed up, but I barely rode it.
9. What is the make and model number of your meter for my reference. No idea as I'm not at home.

Post back.
Everything above in bold sir.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,756 Posts
1. What was the value of the resistor that you used, including watts.
2. What wire color(s) did you splice into and where?
3. Did the resistor smoke right away or?
4. Was that ALL that was done electrically?
5. Did any wires burn too?

I have to take this one step at a time because electrical troubleshooting from 3000km's away is trying, at best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
1. What was the value of the resistor that you used, including watts.
2. What wire color(s) did you splice into and where?
3. Did the resistor smoke right away or?
4. Was that ALL that was done electrically?
5. Did any wires burn too?

I have to take this one step at a time because electrical troubleshooting from 3000km's away is trying, at best.
22 ohm resistor, unsure what wattage, guess would be a 1/4 watt. Spliced into the two wires going into the connector for the air valve at the top of the engine.
The resistor started a high pitch squeal right away that I thought was coming from the crankcase filter I installed in a similar area under the tank. I made it 6 minutes and it quit with smoke coming from where the resistor had actually got so red hot it broke.
I had a resistor on my gear position indicator that I removed as soon as this problem occurred.
I exposed ALL wires and could not find any burns.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
See question 2.
Right side of harness along top of frame before injectors, white with red stripe, and the green/blue wire to the air switching valve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
OK, what was the original problem....blowing ECU fuse with key on, or?
Key on would blow ecu fuse, you got it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Has everything been restored to factory original?

Could you post back with make and model of your meter.
Everything but the ECU, the original burned up. It was an L model, now an M.

Meter -


The make is a cheapo from a store called Canadian Tire, made in China. Certified is the brand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,756 Posts
OK, you will have to post make and model or a link so I can see face and specs.

Did not know you replaced ECU. With new unit, fuse pops as soon as key on?
If you unplug ECU, does fuse still blow?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
OK, you will have to post make and model or a link so I can see face and specs.

Did not know you replaced ECU. With new unit, fuse pops as soon as key on?
If you unplug ECU, does fuse still blow?
I looked for a make and model but the old rebadged made in China has nothing.

Anyway, I replaced the wiring harness and relay box and started the bike!
I just have to ensure all is good before I finish buttoning it back together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
After about 45 days of pulling my hair out trying to fix my issue, SUCCESS!
A new wiring harness did the trick (along with a new relay module. When I say new, I mean used. The replacement was in better shape than my original.
I still don't know where my issue was precisely and right now I do not care. Replacing the harness is child's play for anyone who cares.

Anyway thanks to sfair for going one on one to try and help me.

And I will have a new regulator/rectifier for sale, and a perfectly good 2004 stator/alternator that I never had to use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,756 Posts
It would kill me not to know where the fault is, but the bottom line is summers are too short in Canada!

One problem with not knowing is that the harness may not have been the actual problem, but in the act of replacement, something was temporarily disturbed and the problem may come back at a later date.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top