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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I'll be using this tread to track and describe the progress on my bike project as well as to reach out for help/ideas etc.

For some background please see my introduction found in the new members introduction section under the thread title

Greg's 2006 VN1600 MS Winter Project.

Cheers.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #2
This is a quick list of what I've done since I got bike into my garage:

- general front to rear visible damage/issues inspection.

- crankcase oil appears clean looking, level ok. No leaks evident. I'll change oil and filter later

- checked and reseated all fuses... Found 10A headlight fuse is blown ( headlight is missing and I note some exposed wires where headlight connector is missing)

- removed the right hand foot peg and rear brake lever frame plate it is attached to ... The metal tube/peg holder which is bent back and upwards .... will need to be straightened... The rear brake switch and related linkage came apart pretty easily and is hanging loosely until the foot peg holder is straightened and the plate put back in place

- removed seat and the old battery which is bad/dead.

- removed gas tank, emptied it, swished some fresh gas around in tank and then dumped and disposed of all old gas. Purchased some fresh, high octane gas in 4litre Jerry can.

- rad fan was jammed/stuck ... I removed rad fan assembly to clear / remove a lot of dried/caked mud/dirt from the fan and rad area. This mud/dirt was Jammed in pretty good as result of the bike ending up in a muddy ditch at the sudden end of the last drive taken by the previous owner. Reseated the coolant temp sensor/switch and rad fan switch wiring found at bottom of the rad. Reinstalled fan assembly with the fan now freely/easily turning. No damage/coolant leaks evident from rad. Coolant expansion tank level appears normal/ ok. Removed rad cap.. Coolant at top level ... ok

- clutch and brake fluid reservoirs covers removed and fluid levels visually checked and all appear ok.

- missing the ignition switch/key, which was apparently removed and deemed damaged beyond repair in the wake of the muddy ditch incident. As I want to try to see if the bike will run, I found and used a 3-pole, double throw switch as a jury-rigged ignition switch... This allowed me to duplicate the required RUN/ON electrical connections required of the ignition switch as shown in the wiring diagram. I'll take a picture of my switch and will provide a wiring diagram of how I wired it up in case others are interested. Also if anyone sees an error in my wiring let me know. This is just temporary until I get a replacement ignition.

..... More to follow...

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Attached are a couple of pictures ... one shows the ignition switch portion of the wiring diagram for a VN1600 and the other shows the wiring diagram for a 3 pole, single throw switch that should mimic the electrical connections of the ignition switch in the ON
position.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Below pictures shows the badly bent right hand foot pedal. As well as the badly scratched and dented gas tank.
 

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The below picture shows my make-shift ignition switch... Lashed to handle bars with electrical tape... In true redneck fashion

I soldered some blade terminals at the end of the wires that come from the switch so that I can insert these into the end of the female connector that the ignition switch would normally plug into. I just didn't want to start cutting/splicing into the existing wire harness with this temporary switch...

Again this is a triple pole, single throw switch (not double throw as initially mentioned above)
 

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Im following... im following... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
After reviewing the EFI section of the service manual I've learned that the EFI Indicator LED normally found in the Speedo/tach gauges can provide a tremendous amount of info /help in diagnosing problems...

But without the gauges present I went looking at the schematic again... With the intent of adding a temporary LED indicator to the connector that the gauges would normally attach to...

Below is the section of the schematic that shows the speedometer unit connections to the wiring harness...

The EFI indicator LED that I need to duplicate is the one identified as no 4 on the schematic. The anode side of the LED is attached to the BRown color wire, while the cathode side of the LED is attached to the red/yellow( R/Y) color wire. The BR wire is hot+12V when the ignition is on. The R/Y wire goes directly to the ECU. I used a 100 ohm current limiting resistor in series with the cathode connection ... Once I made up my LED/resistor circuit wire harness I inserted the two wire ends into the speedo connector positions with the BR and R/Y wires ensuring the anode side of the LED goes to BR and the cathode side of the LED goes to R/W.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Below is a picture of my red-neck EFI indicator LED attached to the connectors that are found in the speedo... You will notice that the two color wires needed are found on two separate connectors. I simply stripped about 1/4" of the insulation off of the wire ends and pushed the bare wire into the two desired connector positions so they contact the terminals in the connectors.

Also DONT try this without the resistor! The LED will quickly be destroyed when you turn on the ignition and the ECU turns on the LED.
 

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So now that I had a make shift ignition switch as well as an EFI indicator LED, I connected a fully charged battery to the positive and negative terminals via heavy jumper cables. Now the fun begins...

When I turn on the ignition switch, the EFI Led comes on, as well as tail lights, and neutral indicator light ... However the fuel pump is not priming/turning on... The EFI led turns off after a few seconds. My understanding from what I've read is that this behaviour is normal.

I can turn the engine over with the starter switch , however I've also confirmed there is no spark present at the plugs.

I grounded the yellow diagnostics connection found in the battery area under seat, with the expectation that the EFI indicator would start blinking out a diagnostic code... Unfortunately
No diagnostic code was output.

I started going thru the schematic and checking various components ... What I found / have determined is that the ECU is not turning on or is not able to turn on the DFI main relay ... See below section of main schematic/connections at this component. I have removed and tested/confirmed that this relay appears to be functional/working. (While removed I Used battery and a couple of small jumper leads to verify that the relay coil actuated the relay switch contacts.)

With the DFI main relay in circuit, I measure around 1V at the ECU side of the relay coil and +12V at the fuse side of the relay coil. For the relay to work I'd expect to see closer to zero volts on the ECU side of the relay... The ECU does not appear to be able to pull down to zero volts...

I'm starting to suspect /think that the ECU might be bad... However I have started to check the power and ground connections on the bike main harness.

I have read other posts that discuss electrical issues, and part of the diagnostic / resolution is to inspect a ground termination connector where all of the grounds are brought together.

Question to forum members: Does this same ground termination connector exist in the 2006 model year on the VN1600 MS?
 

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Hi, I believe some Kawasaki cruisers have a resistor in the ignition switch which acts as a simple form of immobiliser to stop people from stealing the bike by simply cutting and twisting the ignition wires together. Not sure if this is relevant to your bike but it might explain the problems your are having. I don't know any more detail than this but would guess that the resistor lowers the voltage to one or both of the ignition wires from the switch and the ecu shuts down if full 12volts is detected. There are a lot of posts regarding electrics on here from Sfair so maybe PM him and he could shed some light on this.

Hope this helps

Radar
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi Radar,

Thank you very much for this piece of information... What you say actually makes sense .... I'll reach out to Sfair ... It would be great relief to find that the the ECU is ok.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Radar you were right about the resistor ... I wasn't able to send a PM to Sfair because I have not posted enough yet... And I started another thread on this ignition switch issue....

However I found a thread on another forum describing same issue I'm having.... And that thread confirmed that all Kawi MCs with digital ignition have gray wire going to ECU .... the voltage level on the gray wire from the ignition switch to the ECO has to be within 6-9V. If not the ECU will not fire up the DFI relay... And to do this there is a series resistor of 100 ohms or so ...


So I was able to make a 125 ohm resistor... By combining in parallel four 510 ohm resistors I had in my junk drawer in garage... See attached picture...

After I added this resister to my red neck ignition switch the ECU fired up the DFI relay, and after a few cranks the bike started right up...

Did my happy dance...

Motor sounded great and idled nicely, after it warmed up the rad fan started to cycle on/ off.

No leaks or funny noises evident...

More to follow...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm pretty tickled about now having a running engine... And how smooth it idle ... I used highest octane gas available. More amazing is that the bike has been sitting and had not been started up / running since mid May 2013. Gotta love these fuel injected bikes.

The next issue on my project bike that I have to sort out is related to the gear shift mechanism...

More specifically I can't get the transmission to move into 1st gear from neutral.

With the engine running I pull the clutch in and try and tap down on the shift peddle, but it just will not move into 1st gear. I've tried rocking the bike forward and back and still no luck.

I've taken the outer left cover off of the lower part it the engine to take a closer look.

Upon closer inspection it looks like the front shift lever that the shift peddle attaches to may be bent. As a result the " ball joint" on the back of the front shift lever that attaches to the shift rod does not appear to be sitting in the back of the shift lever correctly. The shift rod itself does not appear to be bent.

I'll post a picture or two so that you can better understand what I'm trying to describe... and perhaps forum members can tell me or show me what "normal" shift lever looks like...
 

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The front shift lever part that I'm referring to is shown in the attached picture taken from the service manual. As shown the shift pedal attaches to this part...
 

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The attached picture is a view of the lower part of the front shift lever as seen looking up from the bottom of the bike.

As you can see, the arm of the front shift lever appears to me to be twisted/bent and the ball joint that the shift rod attached to appears crooked/cockeyed.

Questions to forum members:

Is this arm bent or does it look ok/normal?

How does one go about adjusting the shift rod? There appears to be a lock nut at each end of the rod.

from what I've read the engine needs to be removed to access / remove these parts... Are there any other options available for me?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the positive feedback Norseman.

Today in anticipation to having to remove the engine to deal with the shifting issue I started looking at making up the bike Jack support.

It is a great idea that Kawasaki has built into the lower frame a couple of Jack-up hard points with Holes to allow secure attachment of the Jack.

So to take advantage of those built in hard points on the frame I tried to make up a stable/secure Jack.

I started with a 2-ton scissor Jack. A piece of 1"X1" steel tubing, and a couple of L-brackets.

See attached parts I started with.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The jacking hard points on the frame are approx. 9.75" apart as measured from the outside of each hard point. The hole in each hijack hard point will accept 1/4" hardware.

I cut the 1"X1" tubing to 10.25" length. I then cut one side of the L-brackets, and mounted them to the tubing so that the inside dimension between the brackets was at least 9.75"

I then mounted he tubing to the top of the scissor Jack.

See attached result.
 

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Unfortunately the scissor Jack has too much play/slop and the result is that the bike was VERY unstable when I jacked it up using my new Jack..

So back to the drawing board...

I tried to stabilize the Jack by using some angle iron at the base of the scissor Jack by this only marginally improved things.

So I got rid of the scissor Jack. I've now attached the tubing/L-bracket assembly to the hard points, and I've put a Jack at each side of the bike. I've now have the bike vertical and stable.
 

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