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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a 2004 VN2000 and I decided to do an oil change with some 20w50 mobil1 and a K&N filter. About 400 miles after the change, I developed a LOUD tick in the front cylinder head (I could hear it over the engine and wind noise on the highway doing 75, with full-face helmet and earplugs) after going on the highway for about 15 minutes.

I was feeling pretty despondent. I only have about 10k miles on my bike, and so I rushed home to try to do some research. After much reading, I decided I was most likely going to have to do a replacement of the HLAs and screens (a la the sticky here) but then I came across one post on another forum saying that it is very much worth trying to run some seafoam/magic mystery oil through the oil and see if that does anything to help. Figuring it was easier and cheaper than dropping the engine and replacing all those parts, I poured half a can of seafoam into my oil and ran it for 30 minutes. I was disappointed to hear that nothing changed. I also adjusted my idle set screw so that the VN2k idled slighly higher (it was set at a very low rpm by previous owner which I never changed. Sounded like a typical harley "potato potato" idle, which apparently is far too low for the Vn2k) I shut the bike off, and went to bed.

I wake up this morning, go out and fire the bike up again and let it idle for about 15 minutes. The ticking was just as present as yesterday, and i was feeling pretty depressed about the whole situation. I come back 15 minutes later and lo and behold, the tick is now at half-volume compared to before. Excited, I throw my leg over and take the bike out for a ride. 40 minutes later, I get back home (after running the bike pretty hard: high revs, hard acceleration etc) and the tick is gone. Just the sound of the stock exhaust and the quiet murmur of the HLA's gently running.

I am absolutely THRILLED with the seafoam treatment. I highly recommend it to anyone experiencing some valve noise. Be sure to let it run for a while, you won't hear any improvements right away.

In the future, I'm planning on switching the oil to rotella t6 5w40, I think the thinner oil should help get the oil all the way up through the rocker screens and whatnot.
 

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Was the bike making the noise prior to the oil change? What was the viscosity being used prior to the 20W-50 oil change? Why would you use a heavier viscosity when the manual calls for 10W-40?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeti,

There was no noise prior, though I purchased the bike with severe neglect: the oil was pitch black, viscosity was unknown. I checked the manual, and it states that 10w40 and 20w50 are both acceptable weights. I found an awesome deal on the 20w50, which was why I opted for that at the time.
 

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That's unfortunate the bike was neglected. Makes me wonder how much flow would be reduced with the prior lack of maintenance and the corresponding crap that could have been built up in the rocker arm filters. I've always run a high quality 10W-40 dino MC oil (Repsol first, now Maxima) and had no problems other than ticking for the first 20 minutes after pulling it out from winter storage while the HVA's pump up. The 20W-50 seems like a great idea for an air cooled bike with main bearings like those from a Harbor Freight utility trailer. With a liquid cooled engine (designed by engineers, not lawyers) and proper main bearings like you'd find in a CAT diesel or Keith Black Hemi, 10W-40 should be just fine even in the hottest of ambient temperatures unless you have it heavily stressed with very little air going across the radiator.
 

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I put 20W-50 in mine once. The engine seemed to make more noise so I took it out. It's very, very rare to be hot enough around here to get past the top of the 10-40 temp range anyway. And, even in the summer, it's usually pretty mild in the morning for the heavier oil. In the rare occasion it gets that hot outside I'm probably in the A/C, not out riding in the blast furnace, LOL.
 

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I run 20w-50 in the summer and 10w- 40 in the winter. I ride year round and pull a trailer. It gets pretty hot here in NC! Seafoam is wonderful but I would go ahead and change the oil if you haven't, seafoam is a detergent and even though it says you can just leave it in I would think it would cut down on lubrication some.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the advice guys! Unfortunately, I got the tick back. The motor was quiet and happy until I did a high-speed highway run for about 15 minutes, then the tick came back! Very disheartening.


I am currently warming up the oil as we speak. I'm moving to a 5w40 (rotella t6) and we'll see if it runs quiet and happy. How far is ok to ride to see if the tick goes away, after I change the oil?
 

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I don't think you're actually going to damage anything with a tick unless you're keeping it at near redline for a while. The worse mine ever was it took almost 25 minutes of fairly mild riding to get it to stop ticking after the first fire up after being winterized for 5 months. I would think if you've not had it go away after 30 minutes of riding, it's likely to not go away on its own.
 

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Low Oil Pressure

This stands out to the root cause of your problem:

I also adjusted my idle set screw so that the VN2k idled slighly higher (it was set at a very low rpm by previous owner which I never changed. Sounded like a typical harley "potato potato" idle, which apparently is far too low for the Vn2k)


Low Oil Pressure to the top end - Plus the mention of neglect.


Try some Marvel Mystery oil with a fresh Oil change 20W50 Castrol 4T - get rid of the Mobile1 - run it for a couple 100 miles. Marvel Mystery oil is a cleaner (Transmission Fluid, kerosene mix) - I would run for a longer term in the oil then Seafoam.

Just my 2 Cent opinion


:nerd::nerd:
 

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Hi all my 2004 2k used to make that tapping noise sometimes it sound like a valve adjuster it would come and go, now at 60k miles i have not heard in a few years , how about the
cylinder decompression mechanism sticking ??? i add a little bit of marvel oil to keep things clean on engine/trans oil
good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeti, yeah, I think I'm going to have to drop the engine and replace the screens and whatnot :( The tap does not go away after any amount of riding time/rpm change, so I think that the tick is here to stay until I get into the top end, which means I don't get to ride for a while

Biebs: I just did an oil change today. I have the bike idling with some more seafoam in the crankcase (fixed the tick the first time around) and if this doesn't work, I'm going to just take the bike in for repair, as I don't have the lifts nor the confidence in my ability to replace the HLAs and screens.
 

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Much as I like my VN2K, like many "metric" bikes they don't hold their value all that well.

If a shop has to do the repair it sounds like it could be a pretty expensive repair. May want to get an estimate then consider if it might be better just to run it until the wheels fall off, so to speak, as-is.
 

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Much as I like my VN2K, like many "metric" bikes they don't hold their value all that well.

If a shop has to do the repair it sounds like it could be a pretty expensive repair. May want to get an estimate then consider if it might be better just to run it until the wheels fall off, so to speak, as-is.
The shop I took mine to wouldn't do this repair (it's a dealership) because it involves altering a stock part (drilling the screen). And like you said, even if they did it would be very expensive. I did mine in about 15 hours over 2 days ( i wrote the sticky note at the top of this forum). I'm not Joe Mechanic, but I can turn a wrench. It's not a super hard job if you have the right tools. The only things that may be out of the ordinary are a decent lift and wheel chock, torque wrench(es) 1 for in-lbs and 1 for up to 80 ft-lbs and if possible an impact wrench that you'll use for about 30 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Whoru99: Yeah, I bought my bike for a steal, so I had figured that it was going to need some repair. The bike has ~9.5k miles on it right now, and I bought it for $2.7k. I put in about $1.4k in OEM Kawasaki Parts to get it back to stock, as well as new tires, for a grand total of $4.1k. In your opinion, would the repair be worth it with this much invested? Or am I beginning to exceed the value of the bike? A quick google search for V2ks with similar mileage and condition (mine is now in good to excellent condition) says that they are listed for around $6.5k, but I'm not sure if they are selling for that much.


Bill: THANK YOU so much for that write up, you've really help myself and I'm sure countless others keep their beasts on the road. How is your bike operating at this point? Is the fix still working? I think that if the work last for the "lifetime" of the motorcycle, I think I would be inclined to do it and keep the motorcycle. If not, I may just take whoru99's advice and try to sell the bike to someone a little more handy than I. I have finally finished all the work the bike needed, and was about to call her "done" when the tick showed up, so I think I could sell it with the tick for what I have invested at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Kevin, it lasted for the lifetime of my bike. Mine got totaled about 1000 miles after the fix (fluke accident, no injuries). I would think this is a permanent fix. I can't see anything plugging a 1mm hole.
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/14-vulcan-2000/116609-bad.html
Bill, that's terrible! I read through the whole thread. I assume you got a new V2K since you're still part of the forum? I think you've convinced me to do the "Braske Repair" I've ridden a lot of other cruisers, and none of them have spoken to me like the Vulcan 2000.

I assume you're waiting to do the HLA repair when/if your new vulcan starts it's ticking?
 

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Bill, that's terrible! I read through the whole thread. I assume you got a new V2K since you're still part of the forum? I think you've convinced me to do the "Braske Repair" I've ridden a lot of other cruisers, and none of them have spoken to me like the Vulcan 2000.

I assume you're waiting to do the HLA repair when/if your new vulcan starts it's ticking?
I did. I found a purple '04 (Metallic Sorcerer Purple Prism, if I'm being accurate) just like my first one, except it came with Corbin bags.

And yeah, I'm hoping this one never ticks, but if it does I know where there are instructions how to fix it!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the advice bill. I suppose I just need to decide if this is worth the price of the repair. I should do a little more research on Magic Mystery Oil and other additives I could try before breaking the whole motor apart.
 

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Whoru99: Yeah, I bought my bike for a steal, so I had figured that it was going to need some repair. The bike has ~9.5k miles on it right now, and I bought it for $2.7k. I put in about $1.4k in OEM Kawasaki Parts to get it back to stock, as well as new tires, for a grand total of $4.1k. In your opinion, would the repair be worth it with this much invested? Or am I beginning to exceed the value of the bike? A quick google search for V2ks with similar mileage and condition (mine is now in good to excellent condition) says that they are listed for around $6.5k, but I'm not sure if they are selling for that much.


....
Checking Craigslist, I see a few somewhat local examples at asking/listed prices $4500-5000. But, they typically have more miles on them, ~20k to ~40k. OTOH, also sounded like they had some aftermarket goodies on them too...seats, etc.

You're right at the point where it's a tough call. If you did the work yeah. A shop, mmm... dunno.
 

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Checking Craigslist, I see a few somewhat local examples at asking/listed prices $4500-5000. But, they typically have more miles on them, ~20k to ~40k. OTOH, also sounded like they had some aftermarket goodies on them too...seats, etc.

You're right at the point where it's a tough call. If you did the work yeah. A shop, mmm... dunno.
Whoru96: Yeah, I'm seriously right at that tipping point. Like, even $500 in either direction would make my mind up :/

I think I'm going to just err in favor of the bike: get her running and hopefully this will be the last bit of work that I need to do in a LONGGGG time
 
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