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Discussion Starter #1
not new to motorcycling, per se, but its been 20 years, so maybe I am a newbie again. Just bought my 800, had to immediately put it in the shop to get a chain, carb, tires, etc, and finally got to ride it for a bit yesterday, and I have some observations that Id like to bounce off you guys/girls. It may just be me being neurotic, but Id like a second/third opinion.
first, I have V&H straight shots, came w/out baffles, but I installed new ones. the sound is awesome, but still a bit too loud. I guess I should put the fiberglass wrapping back on. I thought the baffles would reduce the amount of backfires upon throttle release, but i still get a bout 30 or so every time. this seems a lot to me. next is the apparent cutting out (misfires) of the engine ONLY at steady, relatively low rpm speeds, maybe the middle of 3rd gear. about every 6 seconds, it sounds like a cylinder fails to fire. a quick but noticeable cut with a very minor jerk. I have new sparkplugs and the carb is freshly cleaned/rebuilt. not sure this should be happening. or...do twins just sorta.....do that? anyway, any tips or advice you may have from your experience, things I need to check on/look for, please let me know. oh, and any ideas on reasonably priced saddle bags and floorboards? need those next. my legs are short. which brings me to the fwd kickstand. I feel like an oompa loompa every time I reach my leg out to get that thing. [email protected]! ~nrg(dave)
 

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hi, I'm going to comment on your 800 V&H pipes and still too loud, I have found that pipes come in 2 varieties, Loud and Stock Quiet, there is no middle, I had loud before , Cobra Dragsters and they were Loud, so I removed the baffles that came with those pipes and bought Quiet baffles, well they lowered the decibel dB about 4dB, now the rating on those pipes out of the box were about 106dB, and 4 less with Quiet baffles ended up being 102dB or maybe 100, I found them still too loud but better than 106dB and the Quiet baffles installed made adjusting the carb idle mixture screw so I ended up buying a ColorTune Gunson spark plug off ebay and used that to correctly adjust my idle mixture screw to stop the popping and backfiring thru the Cobra exhaust pipes. That is what you will need to do, with your pipes if you want to stop the backfiring out the exhaust on deceleration upon throttle release, you need to adjust the idle mixture screw, that should cure the backfiring and also any hesitation in 1st gear throttle up to 2nd gear, it will cure that also, if forget now if you need to turn the idle mixture screw clock-wise in or counter-clockwise out, in leans out the fuel mixture and out richens it. But if your are going to install quiet baffles then that is going to require more adjustment on that idle mixture screw in or out, not sure I forget which way now, but that is the cure, that idle mixture screw. What happens is the lack of backpressure on your back when you removed the V&H baffles is causing the backfiring due to a lean condition in the idle circuit, you need to give your bike more fuel by richening up the idle circuit
 

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Look at your vavle covers. If there is a hose between them with another hose "T'ed" into it and a vaccum switch by the petcock on the left side of tank, removing this and either plug the ports on the valve covers or connecting a hose between the 2 covers without a "T" should cure your decel popping. Checout this link for instructions. Afterburner or EPA Removal for the Kawasaki Vulcan VN800 motorcycle
 

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Picked up the Cobra boards used on here last year, not sure about the bags as they were on when I purchased my 2005
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
ok, im doing the epa gas recirculation bypass, I mean fix. all went well except for the fact that apparently the gas is NOT supposed to continually flow out of the tank and mine does. I guess that means ill need a new petcock assemply? id imagine it will just dump gas into the filter forever. is this an issue? there is supposed to be a shutoff after a few drops, the video said.

anyway. I have a mystery hose on the back of the air cleaner. I plugged up the big one as described, but I forgot where the smaller, curled up one goes. I dont see anywhere obvious. any ideas?

p.s. I did try to upload a picture. it uploaded, got really big on the screen, now its disapeared. not sure what thats about...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yep. sure enough. I just capped off that little hose, and tried to start her up, sure enough, she barely runs. definitely missed a vacuum hose somewhere. cant find it. back to the shop.
 

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Should be 3 hoses. The big 1 goes to the EPA stuff if I remember right. The middle sized one goes to the front of rear cylinder, this I believe is the crankcase vent line. The 3 and smallest one is a drain hose for excess oil that can accumilate in the filter and goes to a small plastic bottle in front of frame on right side.
 

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go get a new hose, it's the carb to tank petcock vacuum host, it's a 3/16" ID inside diameter, get about 12" of it and cut it to length, it goes directly from carb to petcock, if your petcock is dripping drops of gas when bike is off, the little spring in the petcock is weak and needs to be replaced or you can take the petcock off and take the spring out and pull on it a bit stretching it a bit and put it back in, there's a youtube on how to do this, or else you will need to buy a new petcock assembly, or else you don't have the hoses hooked up correctly, I think you got some hoses hooked up in the wrong place
 

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what exactly are you trying to do?
 

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listen up, just go get 6" of 1/2" ID inside diameter heater hose, cut it to length (about 4" and a little bit), and put that heater hose on both of the reed valve jug nipples, those jug nipples are at the top of each of the cylinders facing each other (there're at the top), and then throw that other stuff (hoses and gold valve) you got there in the garbage, you don't need it, I cut my heater hose with a razor blade, it makes for a fine cut but be careful not to cut any fingers
 

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for the motor crankcase vent line, the vent out nipple is found at the top of the inside of the rear cylinder, right behind and near the carburetor, all you need do is cut about 1" off the end of that vent line hose and buy a 1/4" brass hose mender, stick that 1/4" mender on the end of the vent line you just cut, then buy about 3' feet of 1/4" ID inside diameter oil hose and put 1 end of that oil hose on the other end of the mender and then run it around the left side of the rear cylinder and back under the seat go run it down behind with the other hoses for the gas tank to end up down below to the ground. then cut off any excess of the oil hose, what will happen is instead of the crankcase oil mist blowing into the air intake, it will now blow down to the ashphalt, well ok not EPA approved but I don't really think a little motor oil mist is going to endanger the world's owl population, well look at all the oil on the roads now from trucks and cars, a little more mist is not going to kill the planet
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yep. had to give those nipples some air. couldnt just cap them off. bike runs good now. no need to go to the shop, just had to sit here and ask a while. thanks. oh, and another question, what kind of bike do I have? I think its a classic, the big front wheel, does not have the goofy curvy ass fender, vin is jkbvnca101b507072. lastly, a humerous question for you guys and gals. Ive burned my legs 9 times on the v and h pipes now and im tired of it. is that wierd ass tape I see on pipes an attempt to make that not happen??

thanks for the reply's folks, keep them coming. looks like I got lots to learn. having fun so far, now my wife is shopping for sportsters. ridiculous.
 

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Classic has fat front tire and rear fender stops about were the exhaust it. Custom has taller skinny front tire and ducktail style rear fender. The drifter has the fat front tire and the fender wrap around the tires like the Indians do. The header wrap is what you are talking about and it does trap the heat inside the pipes, somewhat. Do your pipes have heat shields on them?
 
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