Where in the world did you find an open Radio Shack????!?!I know this is an old thread but I just got my bike and hope to fix the gauge too!
Being OCD I bought the suggested Radio Shack variable resistor # 271-0342
It looks different that then rounded ones shown in the previous posts and pix.
A few of ?'s
1. Which 2 of the 3 prongs need to be inserted into the blk/wht wire and wht/yel ends?
2. The adjustment screw has no numbers. How do I know where 260 260 ohms is to get into range of where I need to be?
Also, I know the light is an entirely different fix but is there any place to adjust that as well? Mine seems to come on randomly!
Oh, heck yeah. Not with the resistor wired in properly, but during the wiring you have all sorts of chances to make sparks. I wouldn't turn the resistor down to zero ...that would be a short circuit, and why I haven't thought variable resistors for this application were such a grand idea....Can I do any harm...i.e. short anything out? Permanently disable the gas gauge or anything else?
I think you might find the fuel light is a mechanical switch so you may need to adjust it from with in the fuel tank.Also, I know the light is an entirely different fix but is there any place to adjust that as well? Mine seems to come on randomly!
This is the approach I used last week and I'm VERY pleased with the results. Fuel gauge IMHO is working exactly as it should, just the same as my truck/car fuel gauges now. I will note I did add a modifier - I added a little glue to the resistors to the board to make sure they didn't move or bounce around.Hi
Oh well, im the "Lets just do it" kind of guy.
Took the instrument off of the bike today, unplugged the fuel sender connector and verified that it is indeed pin 13 & 16 that goes to the sender.
Found 2 solder spots on the PCB, inside the speedometer housing that was connected to those 2 pins and added one 220 ohm and one 47 ohm resistor in series across the 2 solder spots.
Have put the bike back together and will report back if this makes the fuel gauge more precise than before.
Use at own risk.
PS. When i confirm that it solves the problem, i am going to glue the resistors to the PCB to avoid them shaking loose.
Yep - as long as you weren't riding like you stole it, it means you have around 50-60 miles until it's bone dry. My fuel gauge gets close to E (post-260Ω resistor mod) with around 1.5 gallons in the tank as well. If I push it, I can get it right to E and still have half a gallon before the light comes on.Was out riding yesterday and the fuel light came on.(did the diode a while back) I was passing a gas station so I stopped and was able to put in right at 4 gallons. So that would leave me a gallon and a half so to speak to find the nearest gas pump.
Does that sound about right???
Agreed, that sounds about right. I usually tend to fill up not long after the low fuel lamp lights up, and my typical fill is between 4.0 to 4.25 gals. My light comes on usually when I reach 165 - 175 miles on that tankful. I have pushed it to a little over 200 miles on a tankful, and figure I could reach maybe 220 if I had to, but I've never pushed it that far. Not good to let your fuel run so low that the fuel pump runs dry, or so they say.Was out riding yesterday and the fuel light came on.(did the diode a while back) I was passing a gas station so I stopped and was able to put in right at 4 gallons. So that would leave me a gallon and a half so to speak to find the nearest gas pump.
Does that sound about right???