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Discussion Starter #1
I was just curious if anyone has used the 260 ohm resitor fix to there bike to correct the innaccurate reading with the gas gauge on the 900's? I havent seen any threads with people asking about the inaccurate readings so i was just curious.
 

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I never messed with it on my old 900. It was annoying, but I got used to it and right at about 100 miles either me or the wife is ready to stretch so we just put in gas too:D Not to mention I don't like to do electrical stuff, especially if it involves soldering:D If you have instructions, by all means, please post them, that would be a big help to 900 owners:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its very simple to do, it has to be, i did it :D Ill take pics tommorow and explain it .U dont have to do any soldering.
 

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I have never heard of such a thing?! Please do post instructions on how to perform this fix! I whined about it months ago, but this is the first time anyone suggested there was any kind of fix. Our gas gauge is better than nothing, but it does seriously annoy me. I'm anxious to see what you've done and to try it myself!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Ok i finally got pics.First u need to get as close to 260 ohms as u can.Some people were able to find a 260 ohm resistor at radio shack but i couldnt so i bought a 220 ohm and a 47 ohm and twisted them together as u see in the pic and it ohmed out at 262 ohms so thats about perfect.Then u just take the silver cover off around your speedometer by just removing the one allen head screw and pushing it forward and it pops off.Then look for the connector right in front of the tank.U just need to insert the resisitors like i did in the pic.One end in with the blk/wht wire and the other end in with the wht/yel make sure they are a good tight fit.u can solder them or just double the end of resistor over like i did so they fit tighter.Some people just cover it with electrical tape but i used liquid electrical tape on mine.My low fuel light used to come on at 170 miles. With the resistor it came on at 195 miles. I ran it to 204 miles and the needle was just touching the red on the gauge. When I filled up it took 4.4 gallons. That leaves 1 gallon, and the needle was just starting to enter the red zone. That makes the gauge just about spot on. This is an easy and inexpensive fix. Hope this helps everyone because it was driving me nuts with gas gauge not working Here is the link to my photobucket its the first two pics http://s282.photobucket.com/albums/kk246/xvermonter/
 

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Tamj, what was the power rating for the resisters? (1/2 Watt?)
 

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Out of curiosity, what is the correlation between the ohms and the fuel level in the tank? For instance, if the fuel light comes on at 195 miles with 267 ohms (like Tamj), would it come on at 210 miles with 280 ohms? I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to electrical work so I was just wondering what is the relationship?
 

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rpgpgmr, I am going to ramble for a bit. Sorry.

This Indication comes from the fuel level indicator inside the tank. This is a float that "floats" in your fuel (like the float in your toilets). It is attached to a potentiometer (variable resistor), who's resistance increases as the float sinks.

Bike voltage (12V) is shared between the float potentiometer in the tank and the fuel gauge you look at.

With a full tank, the resistance at the float potentiometer is zero, so the gauge gets the full 12 volts and indicates a full tank. As the float potentiometer rotates, it increases in resistance and takes some voltage away from the fuel gauge, so it's reading drops.

The design problem with the 900 is that the resistance of the float potentiometer is too high in its middle section, so it takes too much voltage too soon (half a tank), causing the gauge to read empty too soon.

By putting a 260 ohm resistor in parallel with the potentiometer (Tamj's solution), we lower the potentiometers effective resistance and the voltage it takes, causing the fuel guage reading to drop off slower. But the size of the resistor works opposite to want you would think. A resistor smaller than 260 ohms, put in parallel with the float potentiometer has the effect of lowering the potentiometers effective resistance even more (it's an inverse relationship). This will cause the fuel guage to drop off even slower.

What I am going to do is run my bike to the point that I want the gauge to read empty (1/2 gallon) and then I will play with various resistances to get it exact. My guess is that a 240 +/- ohm solution will get me where I want to be.

This is not meant to take away from Tamj's solution. It will correct the gauge to read empty at 1 gallon, as Tamj stated.
 

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Wow, I'm seriously impressed. Very clear and detailed explanation. I am also of the opinion that the gauge should read empty at 1/2 gallon ... giving us a reserve of about 20+ miles. This is the thread I've been waiting for since the week after I bought my bike!

I'm going to be attempting this mod over the weekend, so expect more cries for help. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Pizz TY for explaining that,theres no way i could have explained it like you did :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thanks for the great info. i went to Radio Shack w/neg results. did you use any specific watt/amp rating???? Will
I bought the 1/2 watt ,radio shack didnt have either a 260 or the 47 Ohm and the 220 ohm?? I have extra 220's and the 47 so if u cant find them PM your mailing address and ill send u a couple
 

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thanks tamj, i went to a bigger rad shack and they had 220`s and 270`s in packs of 5. i`ve put the 270 on first. your bending the end method worked great. noticable results right away, gauge was reading on solid red and went up to1/4 after installation. i filled up, 000 the trip, and hoping for some not soo colddddd temps... thanks again for your input, i`ll bet it helped a lot vn900 riders. will
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Good Willy, glad to hear u found them and have it installed now and you are very welcome
 

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Ok i finally got pics.First u need to get as close to 260 ohms as u can.Some people were able to find a 260 ohm resistor at radio shack but i couldnt so i bought a 220 ohm and a 47 ohm and twisted them together as u see in the pic and it ohmed out at 262 ohms so thats about perfect.Then u just take the silver cover off around your speedometer by just removing the one allen head screw and pushing it forward and it pops off.Then look for the connector right in front of the tank.U just need to insert the resisitors like i did in the pic.One end in with the blk/wht wire and the other end in with the wht/yel make sure they are a good tight fit.u can solder them or just double the end of resistor over like i did so they fit tighter.Some people just cover it with electrical tape but i used liquid electrical tape on mine.My low fuel light used to come on at 170 miles. With the resistor it came on at 195 miles. I ran it to 204 miles and the needle was just touching the red on the gauge. When I filled up it took 4.4 gallons. That leaves 1 gallon, and the needle was just starting to enter the red zone. That makes the gauge just about spot on. This is an easy and inexpensive fix. Hope this helps everyone because it was driving me nuts with gas gauge not working Here is the link to my photobucket its the first two pics http://s282.photobucket.com/albums/kk246/xvermonter/
I was looking at your picture. So if I can find a 260 ohm resistor either end of it goes into the two connectors shown in the pic, right?
 

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I'd gone with the variable pot resistor from radio shack last summer.
Now that I'm still "dialing" things in after my speedo face swap, I'm thinking of removing the resistor, and just adjusting the needle.
 
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