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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys, I'm not a big time electrictian so i'm here to have some professional correction. First thanks for the help :)

In the diagrame i drew, thats what i think how it work all together.
but i have some question and i will ask one by one.
if you know, please answer one by one instead all together. thanks :)

so here we go

1st: I'm going to get DDM tunning HID kit 35w 5000k H4 dual filament bulb to lower the output from original headlight bulb. and also the light bar 35w bulbs will replace with ultra bright 4w H3 LED bulbs to lower the original 35w bulbs. all 4 turn signal 1156 and 1157 will swap out with LEDs and also run/break 1157 bulb to LED also.
pretty much everything LEDs beside headlights. Am i okay on the battery instead of draning faster than it charge when every acc is on ?
acc includs rumble road speaker 15amp , LED bulb light bar about max 2amp and cell phone charger max 2amp.

answer:

2nd: Since i have total about 24Amp or lower from all acc, I should use 30Amp relay am i correct ?

Answer:

3rd: from battery to relay to fuse block, i have 14Ga wire. am i okay ? from what i read online is that from battery to fuse block wire will pretty much have to be able to support all output from the acc together.

Answer:

4th: from the battery+ to the fuse block+, what inline fuse Amp should i use ? 30 ? since the relay is 30amp?

Answer:

5th: Do you see anything wired wrong on my diagram ? if yes please point out and let me know whats the correct way to connect.

Answer:

I am really thanksful you guys could help. I'm trying to clean up the upcoming mess when i add my light bar next month.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
I might be misunderstude how fuse box suposed to be....they are supposly all positive only one Negative to the battery....lol
than i think all the negative from acc should be just anywhere on the bike...My bad.
 

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Evo, Diagram looks good. The only thing I question (and I don't have an answer) is the initial draw the HID ballast will take warming up the lamp. But, if all stays under 30 amps you should be fine. I know you have a few more questions, and I'm sure more will jump in.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the help. so far the diagram looks fine just i drew it wrong...lol
i found out the fuse block only share positive, negative i just tap anywhere on the fram.
hope more will come in answer my question. thanks

whats the initial draw from HID ??? damn it who knows....
 

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thanks for the help. so far the diagram looks fine just i drew it wrong...lol
i found out the fuse block only share positive, negative i just tap anywhere on the fram.
hope more will come in answer my question. thanks

whats the initial draw from HID ??? damn it who knows....
when hids start up, they have a very high amperage. but i think 30 amp relay is what most relays use for it, so you should be good with 30 amp for only hids
 

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I have that exact same HID lit and the relay is more than enough for it. It also comes with its own fuse so just use that one. For the inline fuse before the relay I think I used a 25 amp, cheaper and easier to replace a fuse than relays. I have installed 3 different fuse blocks in 2 different bike and none of them have a ground on the block itself (although I have seen some that do, not sure which one you have) so the block is mostly just to spread out power from the positive side only.


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All reads fine. One thing to note is to not use any part ground in the front fork. You can use the spare "-" negative ground wire in the headlamp.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have that exact same HID lit and the relay is more than enough for it. It also comes with its own fuse so just use that one. For the inline fuse before the relay I think I used a 25 amp, cheaper and easier to replace a fuse than relays. I have installed 3 different fuse blocks in 2 different bike and none of them have a ground on the block itself (although I have seen some that do, not sure which one you have) so the block is mostly just to spread out power from the positive side only.


Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com App
thanks for the heads up on 25amp inline fuse from battery+ to Relay+
i will look into it. i will get all blade fuse...they are easy to change and thin.
and what you said was 25amp fuse to cheapper than 30amp relay ?
i didnt check the price on that. will look into it too. lol
now i'm planing, once its a sure thing i will get all the stuff together and build it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay, so now i have ordered Blue-sea blade fuse block 5028 with 6 positive post with cover, 12v 40amp automotive 4 pin relay, a good multimeter and DDM-tuning HID kit.
once i get the fuse block i will start working on the mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Found a cheapper Fuse block for 16.99 at napa store. FYI
part number: BK-7825316 in stock at local store
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7825316_0006394028
this is a lot cheapper than blue-sea 5028 for 39.99, the differencese is blue-sea 5028 is a lot larger than the cheap one. once i get my constellation light bar, i will wire all them together and take some pic so you guys can see for examples.
 

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Found a cheapper Fuse block for 16.99 at napa store. FYI
part number: BK-7825316 in stock at local store
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7825316_0006394028
this is a lot cheapper than blue-sea 5028 for 39.99, the differencese is blue-sea 5028 is a lot larger than the cheap one. once i get my constellation light bar, i will wire all them together and take some pic so you guys can see for examples.
Nice find. Where are you planning to mount the fuse block? Under the seat, or left side cover?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Bosco: I planing to mount under the seat. i checked and find it fits perfect in the tool box they have.

C50T-VN800B: i ask autozone and they dont sell that one anymore. when did you buy it ? years ago maybe ? Oriley have it for 29.99 and napa have it for 16.99 and instock so i picked up right the way on my lunch break. lol
I know i can get it cheap online somewhere but i want it today.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Im going to put the fuse block inside the tool box and have some edge wall cut out so i can let the wire out to acc. This way its more secure and no water will get in. i already have some wall cut out now for the speakers. so pretty much now is plug and play....just need to find a keyed-wire for relay. i'm doing it this thursday. its my day off. going to wire the cell phone charger into it and the speaker set.
still thinking should i really spend close to 400 dollar for a set of constellation driving light bar with LED H3 bulb........but at lease i have the fuse block ready to hook up after thursday.
 

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The constellation lights will look good with your custom. Though I understand the waiting to spend $400. Good luck this weekend with the install.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The constellation lights will look good with your custom. Though I understand the waiting to spend $400. Good luck this weekend with the install.
Yeah, at this age and this time, 400 dollar is something not worth it for the look only since i already ordered DDM HID kit, it should be a lot brighter so no need driving light anymore, BUT.....just wait. i will show you something special !!!
its going to be interesting tomorrow after i finish. PIC coming soon... hehehe:D
 

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1/17/13 Called my local NAPA and they have 2 of the fuse blocks in stock, $16.99, P/N: BK7825316. It's a: BUSS, ATC Fuse Panel, P/N: 15600-06-20. Rated at 30A, with 6 circuits, flat blade fuses. Thanks guys! It is a great idea to get rid of all the in-line fuses that I've been using. Now I can run one line to the fuse block and have all the wires routed to the one place in lieu of all going to the battery and congesting that area and the Batt. terminal.
 
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