my old fuel pump and my new one wont work it worked and ran fine last yr and then this yr it wouldn't start. I saw the fuel filter was dry but I get fuel out of the tank. I have a 1998 Vulcan classic 1500
Double check your lines. You didn't mention if you used a genuine Kawasaki part or aftermarket, but on some aftermarket units, things can get crossed up. It's the simple things, like what angle the wires come out of the casing in relation to the fuel inlet/outlet... That can make it ~look~ correct by the picture, but not be correct.
It's handy to have a helper when doing these tests. Someone to turn the key on and off as you move about testing this connection and that one.
Can you hear (or feel) the pump running? It may only run briefly when you first turn the key on.
If you have a meter or at least a good test light and a helper, also verify that you have power coming to the fuel pump.
No power? Check the fuses next.
You can also try jumping 12v direct to the pump. There's another thread on here somewhere describing the process for that. If the pump doesn't run with direct power and ground, bad pump. Wouldn't be the first new defective pump I've seen.
Let's get this far and if it's still not working, we can move on from there...
ok so I took pump off and hooked it to battery it work but I decided to try old one and it worked too. I have a multimeter but when I read on here a post about testing for power going to pump I wasn't sure what setting to have it on since it said something about 10.85 was good did check the fuses under the seat by the battery and they all good but none was labeled fuel or fuel pump. im at a loss on this it should be simple to fix I would think
Your multimeter should be set for "Volts DC", and at the first range over 12v. Without knowing which meter you have, I can't be more specific than that. I have several meters, and every one is a bit different, but functionally the same.
I went to download a manual to assist in helping you, and I'm showing options for both carb'd and FI models. To be sure, which one is yours?
Once I have that information, I'll download the appropriate manual and we can move on with troubleshooting
When I connect red prob to red or black with the key on and black to the neg side of battery I get a reading with out hitting the starter button. When I connect red prob to black/white I only get a reading when I hit starter button like you said. So red and then the black wire has me thrown off. That if I did it right
I went before I left for work hook new pump up held it and key on hit the button did nothing so I unplugged checked both plugs both looked good so plugged it back in then pushed wired in just in case. Key on hit button and it works. I did check to see if I had hoses right the one that pumped was one I had running to tank one that blew air out was one I had going to carb. After work I'm going to mount it back on bike double check that it still works then hook tank up disconnect from carb then crank it over to make sure it gets that far. If that's all good I'll then check spark on all plugs as you said. Fingers crossed I may be riding this weekend. Thanks for your help. The old pump sounded weak when I tried it so it may have been going. I will post tonight what I find. Again thanks for your help
It sounds like you have an issue in the jets or passages inside the carb. The carb should come off and be thoroughly cleaned. Pay close attention to all the little jets and holes, even if they seem to go nowhere.
At the shop, we use a chemical dip (commercially available carb cleaner) to soak the carbs, followed by high pressure air to blow out gunk. We also use a screen bag as we do to catch any small parts that accidentally blow out of our fingers, etc. If you have an air compressor that has a tank and an air gun, you can the same thing at home. The little battery compressors dont hold a reserve of air to use the air gun.
If you don't have an air compressor, non-chlorinated brake cleaner is very effective for breaking down heavy crud inside carbs, but avoid plastic/rubber parts with it.
The air will help if you have it available. Also, using the straws with the spray cleaners helps get down into all the little ports and passages.
I have found regular (spray) carb cleaner works good for basic varnish and a little carbon, while the non-chlorinated brake cleaner works great for heavier deposits.
As I said before, avoid plastic/rubber pieces with the brake cleaner.
Pay close attention to the slide that goes in from the top to make sure it moves freely, and that there are no tears in the rubber. Also the same for the accelerator pump. If the accelerator pump isn't functioning properly, it will cause a stumble/bog situation when you give the bike throttle.
There's usually a small passage from the fuel bowl into the accelerator pump.. Pay close attention to that. It's one most people miss. A quick test to see if everything is working correctly there is to assemble the accelerator pump onto the bowl, fill the bowl with fuel (while off the carb), and manually work the push rod/linkage to see if you get a small stream of fuel through the appropriate port. It may take a few cycles to prime the pump, so dont be surprised there.
Basically, take your time and pay close attention as you work, and don't hesitate to look up parts diagrams if you have a question.
Please help. I drove my 2003 Vulcan classic 1500 about 80 miles yesterday. Bike has 20 k miles on it. When I got to miami I left the key on and killed the battery. I replaced the battery and when it started it wouldnt stay idling. After changing the plugs now it wont run at all. It ran for a bit...
I have a 1996 vulcan classic 1500.....do you have to do anything before you remove the left side clutch cover to get to the clutch reservoir?
Didnt know if anykind of fluid was behind the cover that comes leaking out...just want to make sure...Thanks
Here are the symptoms
1) After bike starts pulling the choke will kill the running engine.
2) Engine runs pretty well but I was experiencing a lot of popping out the exhaust pipe from the front cylinder. The popping would occur at speed with no throttle applied. Accelerating and decelerating...
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