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i have a 95 vulcan 800. i was on a day ride (one of my first) in some regrettably rough terrain. it was unintentional to go down a dirt road but it became unavoidable after a bit. anyway, after a while we stopped for a rest, and upon start up about 10 minutes later the bike sounded weird. in fact it sounded like it wasn't getting air. it would run, but as soon as i gave it some gas to go, it would die. got off, looked around and then saw copious amounts of fuel coming out of the air filter. as i'm new to motorcycles and such i had no idea what was going on. towed the bike out later that night, and while doing so, one of the tie-downs snapped and the bike fell over in the trailer. got back there and there's coolant on the floor of the trailer. so now i have two problems. there's no visible cracks or anything in the radiator and i can't see the source of the leak. any suggestions on how to move forward with these two problems. i ordered the repair manual today. i think i have the fuel "leak" issue figured out, but not sure. and i have no idea on the coolant issue. any help would be appreciate very, very gratefully.
 

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BOTM Winner, April 2015
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Common problem for gas coming out of the airbox is that thrash (grit, sand, ect) made the float stay open causing the gas to run out of the carb.
Sometimes gas goes into the crankcase also. Check the oil level site glass and see if the oil is overfilled or better yet open the oil fill cap and sniff it. If it smells like gas then drain the oil and change out the filter.

Easy way to solve this problem is to lightly tap on the float bowl with a screwdriver or something to dislodge whatever it is that's causing the float to stay open.
Now is also a good time to install an inline fuel filter.

All I can say about the coolant is that you'll have to inspect it a little closer around the hose connections and such. Maybe even while the engine is running.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i will definitely give it a go. too bad i have to work tomorrow. i'll let you know how it goes. thanks.
 

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Yeah Mumbles was dead on. It was probably not dust from the road you were on but stuff from inside your tank. Dirt, grit, or rust. The rough road just disloged it. They rust from condensation. My .02 worth
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so that "solved" it. i didn't put in the fuel filter, however, because i couldn't find anything to really tell me how/where to install it on a vulcan. sorry, but i'm new to this kind of stuff. so anyway, took the bike around town for two days, ran fine. this morning i go to take it to work. it starts up, but as soon as i disengage the clutch it cuts out. everytime. i even tried it when i got home (after twelve hours of excruciating work thinking about it). on a possibly related note, i have noticed that the bike dies with the clutch closer to the grip(???) than where it usually is (i think) for throttling back on. does that make sense? i hope so. anyway, i took the air box off and tapped the float box a couple of times and there wasn't a change. it still cuts out everytime. also, i think it's clutch related in that with the clutch engaged or the bike in neutral, i can throttle up as much as i want (or the neighbors tolerate the noise).
 

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Check the kickstand switch for being bad, stuck, dirty, wire off, out of adjustment, loose, etc.
If there is a fault here, as soon as you start to let out the clutch in gear, the motor will cut out.

Post back with your results.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for the help guys. i really appreciate it. so i went out and just did some preliminary fumbling around. i wanted to see if i could fix it without going over to my friends house for an ohmmeter. anyway, i just jiggled it a bit and seems to work now. so here's my question: the little metal probe like thing sticking out does that move/retract/etc when the sidestand is down or is it just that a connection between the two is the switch? the reason i ask is, mine doesn't really retract. if it is suppose to so do, is there a lubricant or something i can spray in there to see if it'll loosen up or is that just the wrong thing to do? (i come from a family of copious amounts of wd-40 can fix just about anything, sorry). again thanks. i can't tell you how huge your help has been. and thanks for the line filter pic. that helps tremendously.
 

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BOTM Winner, April 2015
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The kickstand switch moves in and out when the pushes on it. The problem is that with time road grime, dirt, ect gets in there and stops it from moving freely. Some wd-40 will work fine. You probably have to play with it a little bit so it can free up.

The fuel filter in the pic is not one I have used but just to give an idea. I use a smaller one.
 

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i have a 95 vulcan 800. i was on a day ride (one of my first) in some regrettably rough terrain. it was unintentional to go down a dirt road but it became unavoidable after a bit. anyway, after a while we stopped for a rest, and upon start up about 10 minutes later the bike sounded weird. in fact it sounded like it wasn't getting air. it would run, but as soon as i gave it some gas to go, it would die. got off, looked around and then saw copious amounts of fuel coming out of the air filter. as i'm new to motorcycles and such i had no idea what was going on. towed the bike out later that night, and while doing so, one of the tie-downs snapped and the bike fell over in the trailer. got back there and there's coolant on the floor of the trailer. so now i have two problems. there's no visible cracks or anything in the radiator and i can't see the source of the leak. any suggestions on how to move forward with these two problems. i ordered the repair manual today. i think i have the fuel "leak" issue figured out, but not sure. and i have no idea on the coolant issue. any help would be appreciate very, very gratefully.
i concur with Mumbles. 1. Stuck float. can be the float needle is worn and not stopping fuel flow. 2. Yes, get you an inline see through fuel filter. 3. on the bottom of the carb is a drain. hook a hose on there, run it into a mason jar. back the valve out a few turns and see what comes out.
 

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i concur with Mumbles. 1. Stuck float. can be the float needle is worn and not stopping fuel flow. 2. Yes, get you an inline see through fuel filter. 3. on the bottom of the carb is a drain. hook a hose on there, run it into a mason jar. back the valve out a few turns and see what comes out.
Here's a link to my carb rebuild.
it's the carb tore open so you can see the parts people are talking about.

rebuilding a carb isn't brain surgery, but it is science and physics.
if you have never done one plan to mess up the first time.
i've done tons of carbs over the years. mostly cars.
they all work on the same principals.
 

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Remember that the carb float/needle valve isn't designed to hold back the head pressure of the fuel tank. Hence that's why bikes have petcocks. The 800s are famous for petcock failures. Even a new or rebuilt carb will leak against the pressure of a tank of fuel.
 

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I've got a 97 1500 classic with what sounds like the same issue. I'm looking around in there though, and it doesn't look like I can tap anything without taking the tank off. Sound accurate? Just got it back a couple days ago, and it was fine until I started it up today, so I'm guessing a tank sediment issue...

Oops, just realized this thread was two pages, and saw the "watch my rebuild" post. Is that video/story still out anywhere on the net to look at Brewster? This carb just got rebuilt or thoroughly cleaned during a resurrection ceremony at a local Kawasaki shop, so I'm guessing it's just something that was floundering around in the tank. The bike's been mostly just sitting for ten years.

Common problem for gas coming out of the airbox is that thrash (grit, sand, ect) made the float stay open causing the gas to run out of the carb.
Sometimes gas goes into the crankcase also. Check the oil level site glass and see if the oil is overfilled or better yet open the oil fill cap and sniff it. If it smells like gas then drain the oil and change out the filter.

Easy way to solve this problem is to lightly tap on the float bowl with a screwdriver or something to dislodge whatever it is that's causing the float to stay open.
Now is also a good time to install an inline fuel filter.
 

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Here's a link to my carb rebuild.
it's the carb tore open so you can see the parts people are talking about.

rebuilding a carb isn't brain surgery, but it is science and physics.
if you have never done one plan to mess up the first time.
i've done tons of carbs over the years. mostly cars.
they all work on the same principals.
Can you post the link again? I don't see it.
 
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