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Discussion Starter #1
Was wondering if anybody knows if a fuel injector can stick open and make gas come out of exhaust? Took a ride the other day and bike started running rough like it was running on one cylinder. I got it home and got gas out of cylinders replaced both plugs changed oil and filter fired it back up and same thing starts up and gas comes out one of the pipes then dies. Any advice would be appreciated and where is the fuel injectors located I dont have a manuel thanks.
 

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Do you mean gas is actually dripping out of the exhaust pipe? Or is there a smell of gas in the exhaust? I would think if even if it was dumping too much raw gas in and the plug was firing, the gas would be burned off but you might get bad backfiring because it would be detonated in the exhaust pipe. Especially since the stock pipes have a crossover. I would check to see if that plug is actually firing. You sound like you are running on one cylinder.
 

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Was wondering if anybody knows if a fuel injector can stick open and make gas come out of exhaust? Took a ride the other day and bike started running rough like it was running on one cylinder. I got it home and got gas out of cylinders replaced both plugs changed oil and filter fired it back up and same thing starts up and gas comes out one of the pipes then dies. Any advice would be appreciated and where is the fuel injectors located I dont have a manuel thanks.
What did the plugs look like? Were they both the same or one wet and the other dry? As suggested, you will need to see if both plugs are getting voltage. The easiest way is to borrow a timing light from a friend or a garage and clamp it over the spark plug wire while the bike is running. You can easily access both spark plug wires by removing the cover on the left side of the engine. Is your red FI light on when the engine is running? This would indicate one or the other coil is not working. There's no service code for the fuel injectors however.
 

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Okay someone correct me if I'm wrong, but it's my understanding that the injectors are 'closed' by default and a solenoid 'opens' them. So, if an injector failed, or if the solenoid failed, it's far more likely for the injector to fail in the 'closed' position. Likewise, if it was stuck open, you would probably get some popping as some of the fuel would ignite. It's also a single fire ignition which I believe means both plugs fire every time, so unburnt fuel still there during the exhaust stroke would STILL burn and cause more popping. If an injector was open, I just can't imagine raw gas being in the exhaust. Not unless there's just no spark!

Lack of spark sounds far more likely.

THESE:
are a great way to test for spark (or something similar). Leaving the sparkplug out in the open risks damaging the coil and isn't always a good indicator of what's going on. Those inline tools won't damage anything, are easier to use than pulling a plug AND will let you know if you have WEAK spark. To me, this sounds like an issue of spark; not fuel. I just can't imagine the injector being 'stuck open'. I suppose anything that can open can be stuck open though!
 

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Is your red FI light on when the engine is running? This would indicate one or the other coil is not working. There's no service code for the fuel injectors however.
I think you have this backwards.

A timing light will indicate spark presence, but will not show spark health, and that is important too.

Does your bike have a fuel processor?
 

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I think you have this backwards.

A timing light will indicate spark presence, but will not show spark health, and that is important too.

Does your bike have a fuel processor?
Using the timing light is a no cost starting point. Actually the CPU, if it's doing its job, will log a problem with either coil.
 

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That Lisle tool is junk for a motorcycle. I mistakenly bought one due to fear, based on that advice about damaging sensitive components. For starters, your spark plug wires are only so long, so you have to find what you think is a good ground close to the wire end, instead of where you really want to ground it. Then, the spark plugs on my 800 use a rod on the top to mate with the wire. The tool is meant for a car spark plug that has more of a cylindrical dome and not a rod. So, you can't force a solid complete connection between the tool and your wire. On top of that, you have to dial in the gap on the tool, which is fine - if you can gap a spark plug you can gap the tool - but, there is no way to lock in the gap on the tool, and the tool can be pried around so that any misalignment will cause a greater gap for your testing.


Didn't want to hijack the thread, just been stewing over a waste of $7.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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This happened to me and it was due to my Cobra tuner. The tuner fried and made the injectors stick open. Cobra sent me a new tuner and it started working again. However I cannot get the settings right for my air fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There is a cobra fi2000 processor on my bike it was on there when i bought it with aftermarket cobra pipes so I dont have any paperwork on it but I will try to have somebody test it since I am getting good spark to both cylinders thanks everyone for the suggestions does anybody know how to maybe test one.
 

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There is a cobra fi2000 processor on my bike it was on there when i bought it with aftermarket cobra pipes so I dont have any paperwork on it but I will try to have somebody test it since I am getting good spark to both cylinders thanks everyone for the suggestions does anybody know how to maybe test one.
The quick and dirty way would be to remove the fuel processor and see if the issues persist. If they do not, then I would send it back to Cobra for testing and replacement.
 

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There is a cobra fi2000 processor on my bike it was on there when i bought it with aftermarket cobra pipes so I dont have any paperwork on it but I will try to have somebody test it since I am getting good spark to both cylinders thanks everyone for the suggestions does anybody know how to maybe test one.
sfair called it and Romans5.8 is spot on with removing the Fi2000 to see if that's the problem. You'll need to access the top of the engine, directly behind the air cleaner to get to your injectors. Lifting the rear of the tank should give you the room you need to unplug the connectors from the injectors. Give yourself more working space by removing the air cleaner completely and also removing the dash from the tank.
 

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Using the timing light is a no cost starting point. Actually the CPU, if it's doing its job, will log a problem with either coil.
Right you are. So many codes, so many models, so little memory.
Forgot about the 900 being slightly different.
 
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