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So, I've adjusted the valves at 25,000 and had major problems getting the o rings inserted correctly at the bottom of the spark tube. Keep getting an oil leak that is fairly major. I finally think I have that problem worked out, but now I am seeing a lot of oil in the air cleaner. I cleaned it out a couple of days ago when I first had issues with the front cylinder o ring, and just last night had to clean it out again, as I keep getting oil drops coming from somewhere. My question is, is it possible for oil to make it into the air chamber if the 0-ring around the spark cylinder is leaking? I am getting frustrated with the oil leak as it should have been an easy job, that has me second guessing whether it was worth doing the valve check. I should also add that I changed two shims in the rear cylinder down one size to make them looser, and one in intake shim in the front cylinder. If I made these too loose, would that allow oil to seep past the valve guides into the air cleaner. And if that were the case, wouldn't I also expect to see the engine burning some oil?
 

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So, I've adjusted the valves at 25,000 and had major problems getting the o rings inserted correctly at the bottom of the spark tube. Keep getting an oil leak that is fairly major. I finally think I have that problem worked out, but now I am seeing a lot of oil in the air cleaner. I cleaned it out a couple of days ago when I first had issues with the front cylinder o ring, and just last night had to clean it out again, as I keep getting oil drops coming from somewhere. My question is, is it possible for oil to make it into the air chamber if the 0-ring around the spark cylinder is leaking? I am getting frustrated with the oil leak as it should have been an easy job, that has me second guessing whether it was worth doing the valve check. I should also add that I changed two shims in the rear cylinder down one size to make them looser, and one in intake shim in the front cylinder. If I made these too loose, would that allow oil to seep past the valve guides into the air cleaner. And if that were the case, wouldn't I also expect to see the engine burning some oil?
How much oil are we talking about?
Recently, I posted a picture of my 900 after a trip, and there was some oil in the air filter housing and some streaks running down below it...I was told that some oil there was normal.

Rod
 

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So, I've adjusted the valves at 25,000 and had major problems getting the o rings inserted correctly at the bottom of the spark tube. Keep getting an oil leak that is fairly major. I finally think I have that problem worked out, but now I am seeing a lot of oil in the air cleaner. I cleaned it out a couple of days ago when I first had issues with the front cylinder o ring, and just last night had to clean it out again, as I keep getting oil drops coming from somewhere. My question is, is it possible for oil to make it into the air chamber if the 0-ring around the spark cylinder is leaking? I am getting frustrated with the oil leak as it should have been an easy job, that has me second guessing whether it was worth doing the valve check. I should also add that I changed two shims in the rear cylinder down one size to make them looser, and one in intake shim in the front cylinder. If I made these too loose, would that allow oil to seep past the valve guides into the air cleaner. And if that were the case, wouldn't I also expect to see the engine burning some oil?
Too much oil in the engine comes to mind. Check the sight glass with the bike level and straight up. Buy a longer piece of hose and replace the existing breather hose. Loop the new hose all the way up under the tank before routing it to the air cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Sojourner, I'll give that a try. I hate oil leaking onto the chrome engine cover and then blowing back on the bike.....
 

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I just had the same thing happen small drips from the filter spaying back onto my pipes. Wish i could make it not happen hate having to clean the pipes off all the time.
 

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Thanks I had already checked the oil level and meant to say in the last post thanks for the info Will try a longer hose and see how that wprks
 

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Afterthought, When you replaced the O-rings on the wells did you grease them? When my local dealer did my first valve check they sliced the ring on the rear cylinder. I may have just got lucky, but I greased the O-rings and the tube seems to slip easily into place. I've got about 800 miles on it now with no leaks. The service manager told me that "sometimes they forget to grease the rings". Also, I now keep new ones on hand at all times. If I need to pull a valve cover, I have no intention of trying to re-use the existing rings (the bottom ones anyway).
 

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Afterthought, When you replaced the O-rings on the wells did you grease them? When my local dealer did my first valve check they sliced the ring on the rear cylinder. I may have just got lucky, but I greased the O-rings and the tube seems to slip easily into place. I've got about 800 miles on it now with no leaks. The service manager told me that "sometimes they forget to grease the rings". Also, I now keep new ones on hand at all times. If I need to pull a valve cover, I have no intention of trying to re-use the existing rings (the bottom ones anyway).
Grease, silicone, KY, it all works. We all know what it's like when it's too dry. ;)
 

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I did the crank case breather relocation mod. All it takes is some breather/fuel hose of the right size, a little filter breather, a couple hose clamps and some zip ties. All these parts came from the local AutoZone, etc. While I was doing the valve clearance check and already had the tank off, I removed the old breather hose and installed the new one. I ran it up over the rear jug and down in front of the battery/computer box assembly. Then I started zip tying it to the frame. I ran it around the bottom of the frame at the rear until I got the new filter in a good spot where it wouldn't stick out from under the bike. Also, don't forget to block off the old hole in the back of the air box with a vaccuum cap or something.
 

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I did the crank case breather relocation mod. All it takes is some breather/fuel hose of the right size, a little filter breather, a couple hose clamps and some zip ties. All these parts came from the local AutoZone, etc. While I was doing the valve clearance check and already had the tank off, I removed the old breather hose and installed the new one. I ran it up over the rear jug and down in front of the battery/computer box assembly. Then I started zip tying it to the frame. I ran it around the bottom of the frame at the rear until I got the new filter in a good spot where it wouldn't stick out from under the bike. Also, don't forget to block off the old hole in the back of the air box with a vaccuum cap or something.
Do you have any pictures?
 

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Do you have any pictures?
This is not the easiest thing to get good pictures of, but I have made a sketch. This is really a rough sketch, but I think you will get the idea. Also, here is the link to the Breather Filter from Autozone. But there are lots of these available, so you can choose a different style or color if you want. I did forget to mention that you need a little hose barb coupler between the fuel hose and the filter breather. But there are some that come with a barb made onto them.

PS- I also removed all of the hoses from the air switching valve just to clean up the engine some. I used vaccuum caps to cover those fittings on the front and rear jugs. I just stuck the switching valve up in the frame channel that goes through the fuel tank and zip tied it in place. You can't take it off all together or the FI light will stay on.
 

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