Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
:confused:
I have a 2008 Kawasaki Vulcan meanstreak 1600. I'm re-installing the clutch assembly & I'm not able to squeeze the clutch lever to install the needle bearing???

When I try to squeeze the clutch lever, the clutch lever will not move at all. It's as hard as a rock. This is a hydraulic clutch with the master cylinder at the clutch lever.

Any ideas why the clutch lever will not move???

Thanks for any help, Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
537 Posts
I get the impression you botched something and I can't quite see from here what it is for sure, But, sounds like hydraulic lock and more probable something critical is assembled wrong
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I think your right. I thought I was careful re-assembling the clutch assembly though prior to re-installing anything the clutch lever was frozen??

Before I touched anything, the clutch lever was frozen. I can loosen the bleeder & the clutch lever will move easily. Does this mean the problem is after the clutch slave cylinder???
Thanks, Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
537 Posts
From what you say now, I would have to guess that you incorrectly assembled the basket in some form that it has no room to compress. In other words, order of assy is botched and in a bind. If you don't have a book, you should log into and look at clutch IPB from microfich or some other and try it again. If you can't find an IPB (illustrated parts breakdown) remove tension from clutch nut and look for info. I may later scan diagrams out of manual and send them, but busy for now and gotta ride while sun is out !
Good luck and I hope nothing is permanently damaged, could be as simple as wrong order of plunger rod piece or springs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
:flag:Hey CRUISER DON,
I want you to know that I appreciate your replies!

I purchased a service (shop) manual & followed it closely. I studied the diagrams well & read a few (relative) chapters at least twice. I also found what I could on line.
That's not to say I didn't get something (or 2 somethings) wrong.

Here's what I think is interesting & may be relevant??? Prior to re-installing anything, I was un-able to squeeze the clutch lever. It was frozen before I re-installed anything???
The system is working to the bleeder on top of the clutch slave cylinder so the problem may be in the clutch slave cylinder itself???

The system does have DOT 4 brake fluid (from factory), it's full.

Prior to removing the clutch I did have a problem, the engine got way to hot. I was low on oil in traffic with 95* temperature. A few miles from home, the clutch lever felt like a broken clutch cable. I parked the bike for an hour, it cooled down & the clutch lever felt & behaved normal again. As soon as I got home I parked the bike & removed the clutch hub assembly for inspection. That was about 9 months ago. So the bike sat for 9 months without the clutch assembly but it was operating normally when I removed anything???

THANKS again for your replies!
Danno
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
537 Posts
What might be happening is that the port in the master is plugged or maladjusted. The slave may be plugged and fouled too. If you have the cover off then I'd recommend to take them both apart and clean them thoroughly and probe the ports gently to ensure their clear. If the rubber boot at master is deteriorated it would let crap in behind the cup seal and enough can enter to plug port. I used a wooden dowel with a slit cut in end and polished bore with some very fine emery cloth using a drill motor. You can clean every thing with warm soapy water then rinse, dry and wet with fresh brake fluid to reassemble. New seal kits may be a necessity ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks,
Since everything seems to be working prior to the slave cylinder, I'll start at the slave cylinder & see what I find. Then (if necessary) I'll keep working down the line.
Thanks, Danno

I haven't continued on this journey yet but when I do Ill let you know how I fair.
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
What freed up the clutch lever? I just did my 2001 Vulcan 1500 Classic clutch replacement with the meanstreak spring. The clutch lever is frozen and wont pull back. Had no problem before. I assume something is supposed to cycle the slave cylinder so it ports fluid back to the reservoir. I am pretty sure the return port did not suddenly plug up. Thanks in advance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
@jesmid sorry if this is off topic but when you say "mean streak" clutch spring is that a stiffer spring they put in the mean streaks and not other 1500/1600 I know i was reading about the springs being weak in the 1500/1600 motors and i assumed it included the mean streaks?

Ps i found some info on your problem that may be of interest to you guys:

"pull the cover back off and push the pin that presses the clutch spring out. all the way in against the clutch push rod you should feel the slave cylinder begin to release. I had the same thing happen when I did my clutch."

"I got a helper so I could have someone squeeze the lever while I got a close look at what was happening with the disk stack. Only half of the stack was releasing while half stayed clamped against each other. We took the nut back off and took out the spring and washers for a close inspection. I had the washers just like Gadget says "They are in this order: engine )() then the clutch spring )." but since I didn't have the text right in front of me we tried flipping one washer so they faced this way: engine )(( then the clutch spring ). It was during reassembly of the push rod that we noticed how pressing it in freed up the clutch lever - what you call the slave cylinder releasing, whatever it is it worked. I do notice the pull is a little harder now but only the initial pull, once the gears are disengaged I did not find the Barnett spring hard to hold. "
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Thanks Doh13. I figured out the slave cylinder was bottomed out or somehow had to move to port the fluid out for the next stroke. Like you said, you just push it back in- slooowly. I had to lean on it a while to get it to go. I found that if the lever was pulled all the way back, it didnt give me enough room to put the cover clip in. It's back together and test ridden around the yard. I will take it on a real ride tomorrow. Hopefully it will last a long time.

Yes, I did use the Mean Streak spring- hopefully stiff enough for my style. One thing to note is the Classics have a spring retainer piece that the Mean Streaks don't have. This is lucky, because my retainer disappeared- I guess when the dealer took the parts out to check them. The inner tabs are longer on the Mean Streak spring and no retainer is needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
when you had the clutch spring NUT off, dud you by chance test the clutch lever and pull in on it? if you did, that pushed the rod inside the clutch basket forward and out of place, you have to go into the inside and push that rod back into place again, and don't touch the grip clutch lever when you got the NUT off
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
@btom - Will the clutch work, just be unable to engage fully because the two rods are not seated and the pushrod assembly is a little too long now? Can this be checked from the other side?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
@btom - This is excellent advice for anyone doing a clutch on one of these: DON'T PULL THE CLUTCH LEVER UNLESS THE CLUTCH IS FULL ASSEMBLED WITH THE RETAINING NUT IN PLACE. This should be in BOLD EVERYWHERE. No mention of such a caution in any procedures I saw though. I pulled my lever and pushed on the pushrod at the same time. I could feel positive actuation back and forth and got the cover plate on easily. I guess the rod could be pushed, but not seated, so the whole pushrod assembly would be longer by the amount of the pushrod normally inserted into the slave cylinder piston? I have positive clutch engagement and a bit earlier than before I did the clutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
when you had the clutch spring NUT off, dud you by chance test the clutch lever and pull in on it? if you did, that pushed the rod inside the clutch basket forward and out of place, you have to go into the inside and push that rod back into place again, and don't touch the grip clutch lever when you got the NUT off
Unfortunately I believe I did just that, pulled clutch while not was off.
Do I need to take clutch cover back off and redo basket?
Where is this rod I need to push back in?
Thank you.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top