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Discussion Starter #1
Electrical issues.....

For the record, I would rather something clearly break(crack in a cover, snapped belt, tire flying off or even a piston breaking through the side of my block) than have to chase down electrical issues.:mad:
 

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What kinda issues are you having? Sometimes, it's best to just take it to a pro than to chase gremlins!
 

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I'm with ya. Electrical issues and intermittent issues are nasty. Because as soon as you take it to the shop, it goes away. And it never sticks around long enough to diagnose. And so on and so forth.

The trick with electrical issues though, is to break out the meter and DIAGNOSE. Even some of the 'pro's' won't do this. (But they'll spend your money anyway). Don't replace a part you haven't positively diagnosed is the issue, even if it seems like it might be the culprit!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Background : I put about 1K miles a month on my bike, I ride it everywhere in every kind of weather(about to roll 20K). Suit up, gear up, and ride on.

Problem: Friday night on my way home from work I noticed that when I was at stop lights my Neutral indicator light appeared to be blinking/pulsing. It was not a lot just enough to catch my attention. I also noticed the back-light on my gauges doing the same the same thing. Months and months ago when I joined the forums I read the stator thread. I remember the "surging of lights" phrase. I thought maybe I had adjusted my idle a little too low which is why I was seeing the pulsing. Saturday got up, hopped on the bike drove it to work, everything was fine. Saturday night I got off work put the key in the ignition, turned it to the on position, all is still well at this point. I flip the kill switch to the on position, hit the start button, ZAP! I lose everything, All the cluster lights, running lights, everything, not even a click from a relay. So I figure no big deal, popped a main fuse. Pulled the side covers off, checked the fuses, all was well. Even had enough sense to check the other side and found that 30A one hiding on the starter relay under that red boot. I had to unplug the relay to check the fuse, that one was good too. Put everything back the way it was, tried it again, started right up. I put all the covers back on, tools away, walked back into work, cleaned up. Came back out key in, ignition on, starter button, ZAP. I lose everything again. This time I just push started it. On the way home sitting at a light, all the lights go dim, all digits on my clock cluster go to 88888, FI light came on. I threw it a little rev, got everything back. A couple more times on the short ride home all the lights dimmed and my cluster when nuts. After working a 12 hour shift, I wasn't in the mood to break out the multi-meter.

Today pulled off the relay again, cleaned out some green corrosion, dielectric grease put it all back together. She fired right up just like normal, I look down and the lights are still pulsing. Guess I will hit up the stator thread and check on the testing procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)


For the sake of clarity I made this.

Idle
A to B 24.4 VAC
A to C 24.6 VAC
B to C 24.7 VAC

3000RPM (No tach so playing this by ear)
A to B 54-57VAC
A to C 54-57VAC
B to C 54-57VAC

It was hard to get an exact throttle position because I was using a bar clamp on my throttle assist grip to rev the engine.

With the regulator plugged in, the lights flicker and pulse, rev or not. With the regulator un-plugged I lose my headlight but the gauge cluster and neutral light stay steady, no pulsing or flickering. After a few times of starting, testing, stopping, re-starting, re-testing I ended up with the same result as last night. Key in, ignition on, kill switch on, press to start, ZAP. I lose everything. My gut is telling me that the starter relay is bad, but why would that cause the lights to pulse/flicker?
 

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Do a charging system voltage check.
Remember that stator problems can be intermittent. (not saying that is your problem, though)

Post back with results.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Battery connections appear clean, I can take them apart, wire brush and put em back to eliminate questions

12.55 VDC at the battery with ignition off
12.39 VDC at the ba.ttery with ignition on
11.3 VDC at the battery when starting
14.09 VDC Idle
13.73 VDC ~3000RPM


BTW sfair, I have seen you all over the forums, I really appreciate everything that you do.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just pulled out my Vulcan file from the file cabinet and noticed I still have the Good Times Protection plan for another year, should I just drop this off at the dealer and let them handle it?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It has literally been 4 months since I drove a car. It is going to hurt putting her in the shop. oh well.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I agree, check your battery connections and look for a grounding issue.

I had the same issue you are describing, and it was a short from one of my battery connections. I hope yours is that easy.

John


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
DING DING DING.
The Kawi dealer is closed on mondays here and curiosity got the best of me so I hit the garage early this morning and tada! K.I.S.S. I don't know why I forget this somedays. I mean I have a garage full of tools and it is always nice to have an excuse to buy something new or use them, but honestly a phillips head battery screw was my enemy.


Hundreds of tiny arc marks on the top of the wire connectors and the bottom of the screw. It must have had a bad ground for months.



:D :D All is well now friends, thank you for the help. Thank you for reminding me shop 101. Suit up, gear up, ride on.
 
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