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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I purchased Hockeyref's ohlins rear shock (with RAP) off him a while back. Cheers HJ, it's fab unit. It finally arrived in the land of the long white cloud a few weeks back after languishing in customs in whats seems an 'age'.

Fitted into the bike and went for a ride to set up things. All good but a touch on the soft side when two up and luggage (which consisted of four large bricks) I whipped out the shock and took it down to NZ's only Ohlins agent who happens to be local to get the spring pre-load wound up.

Long story short after pulling the shocks details from it's numbers found the spring was a 16Nm unit and too light for what we needed. So we opted to get the shock rebuilt to suit our riding (mainly two up) and roads (lumpy 'chite').

The RAP unit had new oil installed. Shock unit has new oil, new o-rings as well as 29psi of gas pre-load (this stops cavitation on rebound, something the standard shock suffers from). Being a USA set up unit it had to have the stroke modified to maximise allowable stroke to cope with NZ roads. So we changed out of the 1" bump stop to a 1/4" unit and removed 13mm of internal shimming. The biggest change was the installation of a 21Nm spring set up on 16mm of static pre-load.

Once the shock was remounted I also opted to change the overall length of the shock to give a static, unloaded lift of 1.5"(as measured from rear guard tip). This allows the bike to sit slightly higher with the two of us aboard, not sag like on the standard setup.

With two up and the RAP wound up to just under two thirds and adjustable rebound set to 9 clicks (out of twenty) after some mid ride changes and coupled with slight change in bike height the difference to ride and handling was nothing short of friggin amazing.

We set out on our usual round the mountain ride to test and adjust the set up which has a good cross section of everything from high speed bumps n lumps to twistys, bad road surfaces and tones of off camber cornering.

On the standard shock this road was a challenge. We often touched down and bottomed the shock in many places if you rode at 100kph (open road limit). Consequently this ride was done cautiously to avoid these issues, making a good ride tedious.

On the new set up, WHHHOOOOOA what a change! the difference is like night to day! The bike handled compliantly providing great feel and it felt 'stuck' to the road, not fidgety or twitchy like the standard set up.

Most noticeable was the fact we never 'touched' down or bottomed out and we done this all at the open road limit. Cornering felt planted and in total control, both of us were amazed at the complete change in the bikes ability. This is how these bikes should have come from the factory

We cannot believe the difference from the original 'poop' bag shock. Changing out that dog is a must if you're wanting a good two up set up bike.

Having a good shock and then having it customised to make a great shock by a very knowledgeable Ohlins guru is sooo worthwhile and has brought our bike back to life, worth every penny spent.

Next on our list, will be sorting the front end properly. New oil, seals, fit progressive wound springs and fit race-tech valving. This will well and truly sort the bike.

Ando
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Where do you have the RAP installed?

The RAP adjuster knob is bolted at the top of the clutch cover.

Means ya can erm....... reach between ya legs and give the ole knob a twist on the move, lol.

Makes life easy having it mounted there. I can easy adjust on the go without creating issues except it freaked my wife out the first time i done it, haha.

Pics not the best, done with me not-so-smart phone, looks better in daylight

. ImageUploadedByMO Free1406189688.605196.jpg ImageUploadedByMO Free1406189729.767012.jpg


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That looks sweet where it is mounted down there. The pic of the old and new shock, makes the original shock look pretty crappy.

reach between ya legs and give the ole knob a twist on the move
No wonder you wife freaked out when you did that.... Its her job Bro.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How is the RAP secured there? Is it bolted to the clutch cover?

Hey Smed, yeah ya remove the top clutch cover bolt and replace it with a 8mm longer unit then drop the RAP holder into the slot and do the bolt up, solid as. The oil line ducks back at an angle and sits in one of the motor crankcase slots before going behind the covers to keep it away from engine heat. All looks properly engineered.
Cheer Ando


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