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Discussion Starter #1
So i fianlly got around to completing some mods to the bike, i put in the eruo gears, pulled the AIS system and plug it, and did the resistor mod.

My FI light comes on as soon as i turn the key. Rode it down the street got gas and came back still on but the bike is running smooth and shifitng smooth. I check the oil, coolant. both good. i pulled the resistor out put it back as it was light still on. not sure what eles can be causing it.

any suggestions?
 

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So i fianlly got around to completing some mods to the bike, i put in the eruo gears, pulled the AIS system and plug it, and did the resistor mod.

My FI light comes on as soon as i turn the key. Rode it down the street got gas and came back still on but the bike is running smooth and shifitng smooth. I check the oil, coolant. both good. i pulled the resistor out put it back as it was light still on. not sure what eles can be causing it.

any suggestions?

So your saying, WITHOUT the resistor mod installed the FI light is on continuously? And you pulled the entire AIS system out? (just making sure)

If you pulled the entire AIS system out, then you will need a resistor to put in its place or the FI light will stay on continuously. If I remember right talking to Ponch0 about this some time ago, he said a 22 ohm, 5 watt resistor would take care of the FI light after AIS removal.

Talk to Ponch0 to be sure though. Pretty sure his FI light is on all the time he said (after AIS removal) and he just rides it that way.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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So i fianlly got around to completing some mods to the bike, i put in the eruo gears, pulled the AIS system and plug it, and did the resistor mod. any suggestions?
rt, the resistor mod and the AIS system removal are 2 different mods each requiring their own unique Resistor to give a (false) signal to the ECU.

the Resistor mod everyone writes about is to fool the ECU to think that the bike is in 5th gear and advance the timing to max settings.

the AIS system complete removal including the Selenid air valve which has an electric load controlled by the ECU is no longer present and ECU is sending red FI lite signal to let you kno something is wrong even tho the bike is working fine if not better.
The Fix is to put a 22ohm 5watt resistor across the terminals in that white female receptacle that connected to the missing Selenoid air valve. this resistor will complete the circuit and has the value the ECU is looking for. (falsely) it will assume the selenoid circuit us functioning fine and extinguish the red FI lite.

does this help? Pix later. ponchout
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thank you all for the help and suggestions.

I did remove the AIS system including the air valve, I will have to get a resistor to trick it out. Sounds like a quick and easy fix.

Will post pics soon
 

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Discussion Starter #7
just to follow up, i had my wife typing yesterday responding to you guys while i was making crafts for her out of old barn wood we got.

I pull the AIS hoses and Selinoid valve, pluged the ports. I am figuring this is the issue with the FI light it did not dawn on me the ECU would read the resistance from it to see if it was there or not. make sense now.

I did do the gear position sensor resistor mod, and then un hooked it, but i forgot to pull the positive battery terminal.
If i leave the possitive off will that reset the ECU? And i will put a 22ohm, 5 watt ressitor into the AIS selinoid valve conector. and re hook up the resistor for the gear position sensor.

Tell you what thought the short ride i took seemed pretty nice the bike was so smooth and had some noticable power gain just seemed like it pulled hard all the way through the longer gears. cant wait till it stops freaking raining.
 

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So i got 5 resistors in the mail coming on my way, does any body else need one dont think i will need 5 but thats what i had to buy.
D you have any extra for the gear position mod?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well got the resistor installed in place of the selinoid valve and re-hooked up the gear position sensor resistor, with the negitive bat dis-connected this time. And glad to say no FI light now. But man she was a B**** to fire up had to give her gas and try a couple times.

Thanks for eveyones help much appriciated.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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Well got the resistor installed. And glad to say no FI light now. But man she was a B**** to fire up had to give her gas and try a couple times.
rt, yor not done yet. Need to remove those secondary butterfly valves in yor throttle bodies. remove 2 small screws each. Take em out, bag em, stow em away. Now only your wrist has control of air flow. The ECU drive motor is still in service but can't slow down performance.
Try it and write back yor results.
stArting in cold weather is a bit tricky because the ECU used those BFs as a choke. I removed mine 6 yrs ago, no problems, starts rite up.
I even went so far as to remove that servo motor. too much useless junk on these EPA approved motors. I like my motors mor nekid. poncho
 

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+1 to what Ponch is stating.

I done this a while back as well, works a charm.

Note sure if ya running a standard air box and pipes RT?

If so, on ours we fitted a K&N and removed all three of the rubber snorkels. Improved roll on and a slight improvement in economy too. The bike no longer runs rich and the plugs are bang on.

Hey Ponch, when are the pics comin, I'm keen to learn more about the ais trick please.

Cheers Ando


Sent from the bottom of the Earth via a Tapatalk clone........……Motorcycle.com.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
standard air box, bike is a limited it has the 2000 limited stamped air box i like it, did you change out the air filter in the standard one to a k&n? I have custome Britt Motorsport Exhaust. Bike seems to run rich.

I believe the three ruber snorkels you speak of, if they are conected to selinoid valve, one to each head, and one to the air intake, that is the AIS system.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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Air Bear

here are some pix sequence of the Bear with nose restrictors in and then out.
Also shitcaned the servo motor to open the motor up some more air flow roun them heads. dont like too much junk on my sleds.
AIS system is gone and the heads are clean of any hoses an otter such nonsense. I can get my hand and rag in on top and shine them buggers when I am in the mood.
dont want 2oo much krome bling.. somebody mite mistook my RedBear'n for Smedleys french krome whore Nacelle.. poncho
 

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standard air box, bike is a limited it has the 2000 limited stamped air box i like it, did you change out the air filter in the standard one to a k&n? I have custome Britt Motorsport Exhaust. Bike seems to run rich.



I believe the three ruber snorkels you speak of, if they are conected to selinoid valve, one to each head, and one to the air intake, that is the AIS system.

Hey RT, yep we kept the standard air box, but put in a K&N filter.

The three rubber bits are all in the air box. Two are mounted on the body of the air box on the unfiltered side, these form inlets to the box, rip em out.

The third is bolted directly to the throttle body on the clean air side inside the air box, we junked this on too.

Has made improvements as mentioned earlier, found no draw backs thus far. We've done a far bit of wet weather riding lately, all good, no issue with water intrusion either.

Cheers, Ando






Sent from the bottom of the Earth via a Tapatalk clone........……Motorcycle.com.
 

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rt, yor not done yet. Need to remove those secondary butterfly valves in yor throttle bodies. remove 2 small screws each. Take em out, bag em, stow em away. Now only your wrist has control of air flow. The ECU drive motor is still in service but can't slow down performance.
Try it and write back yor results.
stArting in cold weather is a bit tricky because the ECU used those BFs as a choke. I removed mine 6 yrs ago, no problems, starts rite up.
I even went so far as to remove that servo motor. too much useless junk on these EPA approved motors. I like my motors mor nekid. poncho
Removing these secondaries on my SV1000 didn't effect cold starting at all. The V2K may not be affected either.
 

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here are some pix sequence of the Bear with nose restrictors in and then out.
Also shitcaned the servo motor to open the motor up some more air flow roun them heads. dont like too much junk on my sleds.
AIS system is gone and the heads are clean of any hoses an otter such nonsense. I can get my hand and rag in on top and shine them buggers when I am in the mood.
dont want 2oo much krome bling.. somebody mite mistook my RedBear'n for Smedleys french krome whore Nacelle.. poncho

Cheers Ponch, awesome. I'm gonna have to have a fiddle an remove mine.

Btw, been meaning to mention to ya about the brake mod you sent me a while back so i could clear my saddle bags. Fark what a fecking debacle over a minor mod!!!!!

At my last vehicle cert check the inspector noted the rub marks on my caliper nipple covers and to improve the clearances to the saddlebags. I commented to the nice chappie what my intended plan was gonna be ............errrrrrr, nah!

If i do the mod, it must be done by a suitably 'qaulified' person and then the bike MUST be certified by an engineering co and have a modification declaration plate (2" x 4" ally punched plate!) affixed to the bike and the associated paperwork kept with the bike records.

This must be done so the bike can attain its yearly fitness cert and must kept for when selling the bike.

Now we're talking lots of dollars to this with no guarantee they will certify.

But wait there's more! In addition i would also be required to declare the mod to my insurance co too as the bike is now considered 'modified' for their assessment, a negative decision by them could see my insurance revoked and there and starts another world of pain.

The inspector quoted a plethora of technical jargon but basically i had switched off by that stage just wishing i hadn't opened me gob! I walked off shaking my head saying FFS this is all just PC BS, the world's gone mad!

I've since had bigger spacers made and the hangers changed slightly to get more clearance. The sled looks like it has massively wide hips, ya know like it's birthed a vulcan 900, lol

Cheers Ando






Sent from the bottom of the Earth via a Tapatalk clone........……Motorcycle.com.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
here are some pix sequence of the Bear with nose restrictors in and then out.
Also shitcaned the servo motor to open the motor up some more air flow roun them heads. dont like too much junk on my sleds.
Ponch did you have to put a resistor in line for the servo motor? figure similar issue as the selinoid valve.
 
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