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I tried to install some saddlebags this weekend and one of the bolts broke as I was tightening it. Tried to get it with an easy-out but the easy-out broke inside. Anyone have any other ideas on how to get it out? If I'm just SOL, anyone know how much it would cost to replace the rear fender mount? Or is it just part of the frame? What a terrible day it was...
 

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Run it over to a local machine shop. It should take them less than a minute to get it out.
 

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buy a set of bolt extraction bits, they are reverse thread and you put them in an electric drill and slowly extract the bolt out
 

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If the easy out is still inside of the bolt stub then it will be difficult. I use the Irwin extractors and they have never broken and when able to reach the bolt have always worked. ( Irwin Tools Hanson 53227 Hex Head Multi-Spline Screw Extractor Set ) . If the extractor that broke is still in there and you are unable to get it out , WITH THE BIKE ON A REAR STAND , you may be able to remove the rear tire and remove it from the inside. Kroil and a heat gun can be your friend , but be careful around plastic with the heat gun. good luck on this..
 

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buy a set of bolt extraction bits, they are reverse thread and you put them in an electric drill and slowly extract the bolt out
been there done that. I used extractor bits and volt came out. The bolts are hardened so it will take time. Took me about 15 minutes to drill the hole big enough to screw out.
 

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I bet that was Viking Bags he tried to install. They have lousy hardware and the bolts just don't work. There are several threads on this forum warning not to use the included hardware.
That said I feel for you and I hope you will succeed in getting the broken bolt out of the frame. As Bearslayer already mentioned heat and Kroil (which is the best of the Best liquid wrench made) is your friend.
Good Luck!
 

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Viking bags?

The front bolt is a 10x1.25x80mm(Fine)get a grade 10.9
(Can accept a 90mm though;what I used )

The bung is threaded through

The rear requires a 8x1.25x80mm(coarse) get grade 10.9

Fixed Depth!

Chase all bungs with taps before install!

1”spacer on the front bolt and stack a 1” and 1/2” on the rear.

Use thicker and wider diameter fender washers

DON’T OVER TIGHTEN


Where I purchased My Bolts...
https://www.belmetric.com/hex-bolts-class-109-c-506/?zenid=t8h42t3c40ebbo5gsdht8apt14
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I tried to install some saddlebags this weekend and one of the bolts broke as I was tightening it. Tried to get it with an easy-out but the easy-out broke inside. Anyone have any other ideas on how to get it out? If I'm just SOL, anyone know how much it would cost to replace the rear fender mount? Or is it just part of the frame? What a terrible day it was...
No guarantee but before you do anything else: If you get a tiny jewelers screwdriver, pointed pick that's small and can be tapped, a can of WD40, some fine needle nose pliers or tweezers with a fine point, and a small tap hammer - GENTLY, try to work the easy-out loose (rocking it, side to side, back and forth inside the hole it is stuck in). If you get all of the pretty parts out of the way, you can use heat, but not too much (to avoid expanding the easy-out more). The WD40 can help, but the best tool is patience. It will seem like you are wasting time, but sometimes they just need some "persuasion" to come loose. Getting the hardened, broken easy-out extracted is way better than trying to drill it. After it is out, then you can go back to drilling/extracting the broken bolt.
 

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If the bolt has broken in the tapped hole then no matter how you remove it, the remaining thread will be mashed to a varying degree.

Take it to someone that has a helicoil kit to suit (and experience using them) and get them to repair it. The end result will be better. You can even have a coarse thread fitted for the M10 which will make it easier to get good quality bolts after, provided you do both sides.
M10 metric fine thread repair kits aren't used as much and can be expensive to buy.

My windshield came with SAE 1/4" grub screws fitted into aluminium brackets. They vibrated loose and I found it harder to source them compared to metric. It also bothered me to have mixed standard fasteners on the bike. I helicoiled and replaced all 4 using simple tools after I bought an M6 kit and with a drop of thread lock I haven't had a problem since.
 

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Helicoils are fine, after you get the issue of the broken easy-out resolved. You will have to re-thread the hole, if you can't get the bolt out, or have damaged the threads.
You will have to at least buy a tap to re-thread the old hole. Then decide what size and thread pattern to use. If there is room left after you remove the broken Easy-out, you sometimes re-drill the old bolt and go to a slightly bigger Easy-out. You then try to "follow" the old threads with the appropriate tap. In many professional shops, the idea is a good mechanic should try to save the damaged bolt-hole. The idea is not to "mix" with a differing bolt size. This doesn't always work, or the shop decides too much labor cost is piling-up. Or the torque required, to secure the item the fastener (bolt) was used for, is too much for the repaired threads to handle. That's why there are HeliCoils. But HeliCoils are not stronger or fool proof.
If you want to just completely drill it out, then the HeliCoil will work. The HeliCoil kit comes with the appropriate tap and a plastic HeliCoil installation tool. Or, you can always take it to someone, if you don't feel comfortable doing it or don't want the bother. You are looking for a "Best Outcome" solution, so don't be too proud, if a skilled mechanic is your preference. Good luck!
 
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