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Ok, I know this has been covered, but for the life of me I can't find the thread so here goes.
I bought the lights from Wallyworld with the 55 watt bulbs. Do I need a relay or will the headlight circuit handle the extra power? Also, there was something about putting RTV or and extra screw someplace so the lens doesn't fall off?

And for you folks that have done this mod, did you mount them to the forks where the fender connects (I thought that is where myself.)

Sorry to repeat this all.

Toymaker
 

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If you "don't" use a relay, the current will pass through the switch.....Most cheap switches will not be able to handle current draw for long periods of time....Use a relay rated at 20-30 amps...most automotive relays are OK......use a mounted toggle switch in a good location....however most any switch will work with the relay....tap into a feed(relay activation) that is only on when the ignition is activated.....You "can" run directly from the battery to the load side relay for the auxiliary lights........This avoids over loading wires that have been dedicated to other functions....
 

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Here's a photo album of the brackets I made to mount the lights on the fairing bracket. Make the brackets from Lowe's aluminum, bend em and drill em for the lights. Lay the fender bracket on them and drill matching holes there.



You do need to use a relay and not the light supply. Your headlight is fine running a 100 watt high beam bulb but these lights would add another 110 watts to that circuit. Use a running light wire to trigger the relay when the bike is on to keep from accidently running the battery down. You can run that tap through the supplied Wally world switch as the pick line for the relay and that will keep you from burning out the wally world switch. I didn't think of doing that and put the wally world switch inline with the voltage, haven't had a problem yet but it is close to 10 amps.
 

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Oh yeah, the bezels, or front of the lights, have a simple mounting style that lends itself to vibrating loose and falling off. A Dab of silicone will make it solid. It gets pretty hot though, so you might want to use high temp. I used a hot glue gun to seal up the back of the lights, but it melted and ran out, use high temp silicone there too. If you leave the wires as in the picture they will eventually vibrate against themselves, fray and short out. Slide heat shrink over them and shrink it tight, then run the wires through the bell, silicon them shut and it will make them watertight and fray proof.
 

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wally world lights

I can't remember which thread I followed but I mounted mine on the triple tree right to the inside of the turn signals. I used a relay and did all the connections inside of the headlamp housing. I didn't want to have a toggle switch so I hooked mine to the low beams as it is the only legal way to go. (Most riders said they have never been questioned if they are on FT though)
My first set fell apart and the company sent that makes sells them sent me a free replacement pair which they recommended putting couple of small screws on the bottom of them so you can't see them. This was easy to do I just drilled a small pilot hole first. They work great and are small and look good I think.
 

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I can't remember which thread I followed but I mounted mine on the triple tree right to the inside of the turn signals. I used a relay and did all the connections inside of the headlamp housing. I didn't want to have a toggle switch so I hooked mine to the low beams as it is the only legal way to go. (Most riders said they have never been questioned if they are on FT though)
My first set fell apart and the company sent that makes sells them sent me a free replacement pair which they recommended putting couple of small screws on the bottom of them so you can't see them. This was easy to do I just drilled a small pilot hole first. They work great and are small and look good I think.
Do you have pictures of your bike and instructions on what you did? This sounds like the way I want my bike (my husband will probably do the work...lol).
 

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See attached. I mounted using sure grip stainless steel p-clamps from McMaster Carr. I think they were 7/8"??? I ran an independant circuit from the battery, through a simple toggle switch (w/rubber boot), through a relay, to the lights and then ground on the bottom of the lower triple tree. The relay is controled by the running light wires so that I can't forget to turn on the lights as long as I take the key with me. I have now also siliconed the bezels per I lost one.

PS- The relay is really worth doing. Push starting this bike is a real pain. And jump starting isn't easy either per most jumper cables won't reach the battery terminals real well.
 

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See attached. I mounted using sure grip stainless steel p-clamps from McMaster Carr. I think they were 7/8"??? I ran an independant circuit from the battery, through a simple toggle switch (w/rubber boot), through a relay, to the lights and then ground on the bottom of the lower triple tree. The relay is controled by the running light wires so that I can't forget to turn on the lights as long as I take the key with me. I have now also siliconed the bezels per I lost one.

PS- The relay is really worth doing. Push starting this bike is a real pain. And jump starting isn't easy either per most jumper cables won't reach the battery terminals real well.
WOW, thanks for the info and pics!!!
 

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My buddy Chuck came over with this set of lights last Saturday and we mounted them halfway out on his engine guard on his 07 Classic LT. Hung them underleath with 1 1/4" conduit hangers from Lowe's. Used 30 amp relay(auto zone) with 10 amp fuse that comes with wiring. Took main power from the extra circuit in the headlight case and instead of using the switch took the relay power off the high beam power to the headlight with a line splice. He has his cobra lights wired for low beam only so he wanted these with the high beams. They seem to throw more light than the light bar. Whole setup cost less than $30. Would recommend these as a cheap alternative to a light bar. Also thought about switching relay off of the front running lights which would leave them on any time the lights are on. , mounting facing backwards and changing the lenses to amber or red and using as rear running lights. The bulbs do generate a lot of heat though and the casings get really hot. Thought about some lower wattage bulbs too.
 

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Yea, but how many Lumens do they make (what's their output, not their color or wattage, how much light) You can get 35 watt bulbs and you can go LED, you do need to look at how much light they put out. I've seen some pretty bright ones. But I have a pretty bright LED flashlight if you look at it. If you try to use it it is a different story.
 

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Yea, but how many Lumens do they make (what's their output, not their color or wattage, how much light) You can get 35 watt bulbs and you can go LED, you do need to look at how much light they put out. I've seen some pretty bright ones. But I have a pretty bright LED flashlight if you look at it. If you try to use it it is a different story.
Yeah, that is why I haven't actually tried the LED MR16s from Custom Dynamics. I "KNOW" the halogens work. The LEDs may work but for the price, it is still a risk. I'm kinda hoping to find these LED version at Lowes or Walmart where I can return them easily if they are a bust.

I am actually more interested in the Kisan signal minder for the turn signal/running lights option. C-D also sells the red lenses so you can use the turn signals as running lights.
 
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