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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Rebuilding the motor and little confused on a part. Can someone tell me what these 2 bolts are for. I know 1 is for the shifter but the smaller bolt is for?

Can someone upload a picture like this with all the parts installed. This if from a 97 en500C


Also 2nd picture in Carb side of valves. Am i correct to assume that I will need to pull the head off and have the valved cleaned?


I know I have a previous thread , I would like to delete that 1 and consolidate to a more related thread.

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The right circled shaft is for the shifter.

The left circled item is the oil pressure sending unit.

Unless you just really want to pull the cylinder head (with all that goes into doing the procedure) I would go with using a fuel additive to clean the valves and intake track. An aerosol decarbonizing product might help too.

Here is a pic of Hidalgo’s engine before her first rebuild:

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The right circled shaft is for the shifter.

The left circled item is the oil pressure sending unit.

Unless you just really want to pull the cylinder head (with all that goes into doing the procedure) I would go with using a fuel additive to clean the valves and intake track. An aerosol decarbonizing product might help too.

Here is a pic of Hidalgo’s engine before her first rebuild:


I see you all the time on this forum and I tank you for your knowledge. The picture was very helpful.

On another note , seeing as how the intake valve has a little rust , would I not have to worry about it sucking in rust particles and messing up the engine or exhaust valve? Is what you say is true , then I will get some cleaner and clean them.

Looks like only piece I did not order was the shift linkage and the rod. I will have to Ebay that part. All the parts should arrive on the 23rd and it will be after the holidays before I get to assembling everything.
 

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Any rust or debris on the valves will ‘sluff off’ over time instead of coming off in chunks so I would weigh the potential of the rust causing problems vs pulling the cylinder head. Personally I would try the additives and deal with any possible issues later. At worst you will have to pull the cylinder head anyway at a later time.
 

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I'd concur, a fuel system cleaner and consistent "Italian tuneups" would break that up. I'd also suggest to check valves for proper clearance while always assuring clean oil. This is an EX (Ninja) or EN500 (Vulcan) ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'd concur, a fuel system cleaner and consistent "Italian tuneups" would break that up. I'd also suggest to check valves for proper clearance while always assuring clean oil. This is an EX (Ninja) or EN500 (Vulcan) ?
Ex500c vulcan 97 bike and engine.

Italian time up. Basically running her at highway speed for a hour or more bleeping the throttle to keep the engine temp and internals high enough to burn carbon out.
 

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Uh, correction EX is ninja EN is Vulcan

Italian tune up? Use a rider named Ant-toe-knee
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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Does anyone know if this linkage will fit my 97 500C.
I don't think so. The shaft and clevis do not look right at all.
Let me look tomorrow and see if I have one in the shed.

Regarding EX vs EN, the EN500/Vulcan engine serial does start with EX. It is natural aluminum color whereas the EX500/Ninja engine is painted black.
 

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Uh, correction EX is ninja EN is Vulcan
ducatiman, you are correct to a point. The official model is the EN500.

All 3 of my 500 engines ('95 A model, '99 and '08 C models) use the EX prefix on the engines. To be a bit more specific, all begin with EX500AE, followed by what I believe is the engine specific serial number.

Our 500s are a bit of an oddball in terms of designations.

We are the only series in the Vulcan line (that I'm aware of) that do not use the VN prefix in the model, instead using the EN prefix.
We share a large amount of drivetrain with the Ninja 500 (EX series bikes), which is why I believe our engines all use the EX prefix.

My guess is that because these are effectively a hybrid bike, we get a hybrid designation.

The 2 primary variants you see are the A model (early bikes) and C model. However, there is also a B model, which was mostly marketed in European markets, and is not very common. The photos I have seen and conversations I have had regarding true documented B models lead me to say that they are based on the C model frames, but with some holdover parts from the A models. Primarily, these parts are not something you'll notice without up close inspection (carbs for one), so by appearances, the B and C models look the same.

Without going into a whole lot more, I hope this helps clear things up...
 

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As a youngster working at a dealer, boss would say "prep a red EX500 for the (sales) floor". If I had showed up with a red Vulcan, he'd have showed me out the door.
 

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As a youngster working at a dealer, boss would say "prep a red EX500 for the (sales) floor". If I had showed up with a red Vulcan, he'd have showed me out the door.
LOL I get that. Been in a similar type situation a couple times myself.

As I said earlier, in terms of the actual bike designation, you are correct (EN = Vulcan and EX = Ninja).

It's just that our EN500 engines all use an EX prefix as well (which will add to a new owner's confusion).
 

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Rebuilding the motor and little confused on a part. Can someone tell me what these 2 bolts are for. I know 1 is for the shifter but the smaller bolt is for?

Can someone upload a picture like this with all the parts installed. This if from a 97 en500C

View attachment 246393
To handle your request, I had to run out to my engine from my '95 A model. There is a cover over the area you were asking about on both of my C models, however for these engines, the parts you're looking for are pretty much identical. Looking on the parts diagrams between the 2 engines, there appears to be only 2 parts carrying a different part number, and those are 13236B (the "knuckle" connecting the rod to the shaft the pedal attaches to), and the linkage rod itself. There appears to have been a slight design change in the knuckle, most likely requiring a different length connecting rod. The rear knuckle (13236A), shaft that the pedal attaches to (13167), and the other shaft (13161) all carry identical numbers between the '95 model (pictured), and my 2008 model.

When also cross referencing in your '97 model, again there are some minor differences in the part numbers, but most parts are carrying identical numbers.

Overall, my best guess would be that if you used a matched set, you'd be in good shape. If you're missing these parts, the ones pictured are available since they're on the engine that came form my parts bike. We can discuss that part in our PM though.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm back with another question. I got the cam in timing. Fly wheel on C and ex mark towards exhaust and In towards carb. Both dots on top count up to 24 links per manual and torqued everything down. I decided to try a hand crack but it won't budge past 180 degrees. Can not get a full rotation by hand. Is this normal or did I do something wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Disregard last post sorry! Cams are on wrong. I have ex cam where IN cam should be. Just noticed the little stamp on the cam shaft dedicating which cma is which , even tho the timing marks are correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have a oil leak on the gear shaft. When I try to remove the plate I can't not get it off the shaft without removing the engine again. Can the oil seal be found on eBay and what's the best way to get the entire cover off without removing the engine.
246548
 

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Let me start with the first request...

Oil Seal: Part number: 92051-005
You will also want a fresh gasket for that plate: Part number 11060-1830

I went out and looked at my bike, and I'm not convinced that it's not possible to remove the plate without removing the engine. Of course, it's much easier for me to figure these things out with the bike on the table in front of me, but judging from what I felt.... Without actually pulling the parts off mine, I can't be sure, but it feels like there may be enough room to slide the plate out, then rotate it around to gain more clearance, which may be enough to remove it.

If that doesn't work, my next idea would be to unbolt the engine and raise it up in the frame to see if you can get enough clearance that way. If that's a no-go, I would tilt the engine enough to get the access I need. This should work without having to physically completely remove the engine.

Since this is an oil seal, remember to drain the oil first. Since you're still working things out, if you use a clean container and funnel, you can save the oil to put back in later. Just remember to do a fresh oil change before you actually start riding.

Also, here is the info for your carb boots and related parts:

Carb to head intake boots: Part number: 16065-1320 (requires 2)
Clamps (cylinder head side): Part number: 92037-1523 (requires 2)
Clamps (carb side): Part number: 92037-1843 (requires 2)
Airbox to carb boots: Part number: 14073-1651 (requires 2)
Carb side spring clamp: Part number: 92144-1771 (requires 2)
Airbox side clamp: Part number: 92037-1631 (requires 2)

You may not need to replace your clamps or some of the other parts, but while I had the page up, I threw the info out there anyway. I do highly recommend changing out the screws in the clamps for what's called a socket head allen screw, preferably in stainless steel. A torx (star) head is better, but less commonly available. You can get the proper thread pattern at most hardware stores, and if they don't have the screws you need in stock, look online.

I'm not linking a specific site, but I did use Partzilla to get the numbers. You can use the part numbers to shop around and find the best deals.
 
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