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I have a "ticking" noise from the front rocker box on startup, and it had been going away after a 3-5 minute warmup, but now is beginning to stay full time. I looked through the service manual and it suggests it's the HLA (hydraulic lash adjuster) and that it's either been aerated from low oil level (which did happen a week or so ago) or that the HLA is simply wearing out. If it's aeration, is there ANY way to bleed this without engine disassembly?
 

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Man, I have had this problem and it drove me nuts! It can be the HLAs. The manual gives a way to "test" them, but I say if I'm going that far into the engine I'm just gonna replace them. Also, there is a sintered screen in each rocker shaft that can get plugged with sludge, starving their respective HLAs of oil. You can clean or replace them, or you can drill a 1/8" hole through them and be done with it. If you're changing your oil & filter regularly, these screens seem to be overkill.

Now, I switched to synthetic 15w50 oil and the problem was greatly diminished, and lately seems to be gone altogether (hope I don't regret saying that out loud). The thinking is that the thicker weight oil is less likely to run out of the HLAs.

To answer your question, the only way to re-prime the HLAs w/o disassembly is to run the engine. I rode mine 1000 miles before this happened once. My nerves were shot.

If it happens again, my fall project will be to replace the HLAs and drill the screens. Good luck.
 

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The 03 1600 classic I just purchased ticks like hell. I thought is was the lifters and thought could they be cleaned out of sludge with some Seafoam in the oil and ran for a few miles before an oil change? I am going to try it and see if it could help get the lifters and rocker shafts clear of dirt and sludge. I know Seafoam is a really good way to clean up an inside of an engine. I rebuilt my daughters inline 6 Jeep a couple years back and we ran Seafoam in it right before tearing it down. It was looking like a new engine internally after the treatment. Hope it works for this bike I just purchased. I know it won't hurt it.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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seafoam.. try it.. you will like it. I put it in my v2k just b4 oil change at 50k miles, and everything is groovy. now I put it in most everything that is oil based products, that shit will clean a sewer spotless. put it in your fuel and clean yor injectors and valves.
 

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I did the "shock treatment" and it seemed to help a bit. Basically, you just put a whole can of Seafoam in the tank (I put one in the oil, too, since I was gonna change it soon), and go out and ride it hard. Hard acceleration in every part of the power band. It's a tough job, but someone's gotta do it. In the end, I ended up changing the HLAs and most importantly, drilling the rocker shaft screens. Not everyone ends up doing this, but I did.

Ponch, do you put Seafoam in your gas every time?
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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I did the "shock treatment" and it seemed to help a bit. Basically, you just put a whole can of Seafoam in the tank (I put one in the oil, too, since I was gonna change it soon), and go out and ride it hard. Hard acceleration in every part of the power band. It's a tough job, but someone's gotta do it. In the end, I ended up changing the HLAs and most importantly, drilling the rocker shaft screens. Not everyone ends up doing this, but I did.
Ponch, do you put Seafoam in your gas every time?
Schok:eek: n Awe:sheep:? No. but I put some in each bike (3) every pre oil change and some in the gas... mebbe take a swig jus cuz:skeleton:?

btw, i used it to flush my forx clean b4 refillin w/new 20w fork oil. man that is some nasty stuff come out them forx!
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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I'd hate to see your toilet after a few swigs of that stuff!:D:D
notaproblem. jus pour a couple oz in the schitter and swirl it. takes the shine rite off that porcelain. hear tell it kills that e'bola virus in it trax?
 

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I have a "ticking" noise from the front rocker box on startup, and it had been going away after a 3-5 minute warmup, but now is beginning to stay full time. I looked through the service manual and it suggests it's the HLA (hydraulic lash adjuster) and that it's either been aerated from low oil level (which did happen a week or so ago) or that the HLA is simply wearing out. If it's aeration, is there ANY way to bleed this without engine disassembly?
One of two things. Check your oil level. If you are more than a quart low the aerated oil can cause the HLAs to chatter or your screens on the rocker shafts are starting to clog. I drilled mine with a #60 drill bit. Never an issue again. It is amazing how much noise is generated by the HLAs when you have issues there, plus it is not good to starve out the top end with no oil flow. V2Kman
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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One of two things. Check your oil level. If you are more than a quart low the aerated oil can cause the HLAs to chatter or your screens on the rocker shafts are starting to clog. I drilled mine with a #60 drill bit. Never an issue again. It is amazing how much noise is generated by the HLAs when you have issues there, plus it is not good to starve out the top end with no oil flow. V2Kman
its good to have correct level of oil. its not good to have too much oil. Tha happens too often with new owners who have not yet learned to trust this motor and not the dipstick. this monster motor holds 5.8 qts filled from bone dry.. specs read 5.5 qts with filter change. I find 5 qts to be more than enuff to fill this motor. I watch it close enuff, 5 works fine. Thats the same amount of oil most small block v8 motors hold/need. Most of the oil sits in the pan, 2 qts are in circulation at any given moment.
The oil pump located at lower left of the motor draws liquid oil from the sump and is sending pressurized oil directly to the top of the motor via channels to the hydraulic lifters and bearings all around the motor. There is no airation happening full oil or something less than full. if your running an automotive detergent oil w/o anti foaming agents (i dont think they make oil like that anymore?) then you mite, I seriously doubt it, have some at the top of your 5qt sump, but the pump gets its oil from the bottom where the oil is liquid. keep in mind that only 2 qts are in circulation and 3 are sitting in the sump waiting their turn around this race course..
5 qts of oil is more than plenty in this monster. I have yet to have any HLA ticky noise at 50k smiles.. thats all. poncho
 

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its good to have correct level of oil. its not good to have too much oil. Tha happens too often with new owners who have not yet learned to trust this motor and not the dipstick. this monster motor holds 5.8 qts filled from bone dry.. specs read 5.5 qts with filter change. I find 5 qts to be more than enuff to fill this motor. I watch it close enuff, 5 works fine. Thats the same amount of oil most small block v8 motors hold/need. Most of the oil sits in the pan, 2 qts are in circulation at any given moment.
The oil pump located at lower left of the motor draws liquid oil from the sump and is sending pressurized oil directly to the top of the motor via channels to the hydraulic lifters and bearings all around the motor. There is no airation happening full oil or something less than full. if your running an automotive detergent oil w/o anti foaming agents (i dont think they make oil like that anymore?) then you mite, I seriously doubt it, have some at the top of your 5qt sump, but the pump gets its oil from the bottom where the oil is liquid. keep in mind that only 2 qts are in circulation and 3 are sitting in the sump waiting their turn around this race course..
5 qts of oil is more than plenty in this monster. I have yet to have any HLA ticky noise at 50k smiles.. thats all. poncho
I would agree on 5.5 quarts for a change with filter. When I mention something about staving the top end I refer to a clogged filter media on the end of the rocker shaft. As for the instances where I have gotten a slight chatter out of the HLAs I have found the oil about a quart low. Topping off the oil takes care of it. Some aeration was the only thing that made sense to me. So, that would lead to another thing. How to properly check oil on a semi dry sump motor. Everyone has their own idea, it is just like another oil thread. I get the motor up to temp and let it idle straight up for at least 60 seconds. Then shut if off level and wait another 60 seconds then check the level with the bike still level. 68K on mine. V2Kman
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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here is my take on the elusive oil level dance.. why?
I put 5 qts in there.. I ride my skoot 5k smiles.. I drain it and measure it and it is exactly 5 qts or close enuff to not give a ratsass about..
I put another 5 qts new slippry stuff.. 5k shampoo, rinse, repeat.
I do this will ALL my motors so that Odometers read Nickels n Dimes (ez to kno when).
butt the jest of picture is 5 qts is more than sufficient to lubricate this motor. hell 4 qts is more than sufficient to lubricate this motor. I'd bet it would run just fine with only 3 qts in the sump if ever it came to it.. not saying do it, butt it would not hurt your motor one iota.. btw, wtf is an iota?

so my premise is why do I care what that lying dipstik says one way or another. I know there is 5 qts in my motor. if I were to get all excited and put more in there, I risk over filling it and blowing it back into.. well it used to be the airbox.. mine is/has been out on the ground for ~50k smiles.. poncho
 

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dont want to steer off topic, Ponch, exactly do you do the engine flush thing w the foam, been thinking about it, lots of methods out there.
Anyway sorry, back to topic
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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dont want to steer off topic, Ponch, exactly do you do the engine flush thing w the foam, been thinking about it, lots of methods out there. Anyway sorry, back to topic
nuttin special, put about 4 -6 oz in the oil and ride the bike for a day or three. Give the snake oil time and temp to do its magic. It will loosen any oil debris that may have attached itself to the motor and hold it in suspension. Now The filter will capture most of this and the rest will flush out when you drain yor motor.
Am not sure about synthetics, but pure oil has a degree of paraffin waxes in their base, these waxes coalesce (gunk) in motors. Even Refined oils still have residual wax as is part of the base molecules. SeaFoam was formulated to break down these molecules and hold them in suspension. it worx. Do a search and read up on who, what, how, why this stuff got it's start. poncho
 
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